Switching to synthetic fluid

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Good for honda...what does that have to do with Ford?

Ford does recommend transmission fluid replacements every 50,000 kms. The only way to replace all (ok not all, but damn near) is to use a flushing/exchange machine.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Amen, but you just can't tell when!

Exactly. Just do the proper maintenance to it unless you have some magic crystal ball that is going to tell you the day your auto trans is going to shit the bed on you.

 

[LIMA BEAN]

You guys all crack me up with this stuff

If a transmission is slipping....a fluid change is not going to help it at all.

As for a flush knocking loose 'gunk' holding a transmission together....bullshit. A flush is just simply a fluid exchange machine. Old fluid out via the pump, new fluid in via the return. Nothing involved other than that. No different than the normal flow of fluid through the transmission.

If you are not showing any signs of shifting concerns, by all means change out the fluid and filter in the trans. Use synthetic if you want, mixing fluids will not hurt anything.

^This is correct^, that other advise is complete insanity.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Yeah I'm going to go with the flushing of the transmission, it should be just fine if you get it checked and changed regularly because thats what keeps it clean. If you just don't and figure its fine... you must not give a s**t about your car. Flush it and expect it will need replaced so just have the cash to do it right when you need to.

I have done a few flushes and filter changes and non of them ever had a problem.

 

[exbass94]

Fluid changes do NOT kill transmissions. See my post in this thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74839

 

[bilzy7]

Ya my tranny is perfectly healthy. Not one problem besides my front driveshaft when 4x4 is engaged. Thats not from my tranny though and a separate issue I believe. My ranger use to slip and I didn't do any fluid changes and it lasted almost 30k more miles.
I want to keep this tranny healthy. I would like to do it myself but I don't touch tranny's as my most advanced thing I can do is what is bolted on such as brakes shackles and suspension components, ect.
I don't expect any problems but first responder made me worry lol. I guess I'll go to tranny shop tomorrow and get it done. I just want healthy fluid in it and I plan on regularly changing it after that. Also it's time for more full synthetic engine oil. When i first got it I changed oil to full synthetic but it was 3k miles over the sticker on window. I know they never did regular maintenance to this vehicle but it's in unbelievable shape for a 1998 explorer that never had anything done to it. When I first did a tune up, the plugs had rust on them, I was like holy crap... I mean that's like the basics. But I only changed 3 plugs and wires and coil pack. I had yet to change other 3 plugs and wires on passenger side cause the stupid (evaporator?) bottle thing is in way and I never got around to it.
Such a bad day today... I went to visit my son and my ex went to her appointment. I took a shower with him and fell asleep on bed with him. She exploded on me. It's such a bad break up and she uses my son as a put down to me. I can't stand it. I just need to get back on my feet and get my own place. I was almost contemplating rejoining the army and trying to make it through RIP again...

 

[bilzy7]

I thank you all for the advice. I will be getting a tranny flush tomorrow. They obviously change the filter too right? Stupid question had to ask haha. That and 3 plugs and wires and some synthetic oil and I'll be done for maintenance for a month or so. I know I need some new 4x4 components but this winter has been pathetic... Time to order me some warrior shackles and jack the front before I tear off my front mud flaps lol. I'll do brakes myself next month.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Do it yourself. Drop the pan, replace the old filter (at 122K I would replace the EPC solenoid). Button up the pan and replenish said fluid. Let the truck run and the fluid warm up, then disconnect the hoses to and from your transmission cooler. Plug the return line and let the supply hose dangle in a 1 gallon milk jug. Start the truck and have someone work the shifter in each position (give 20ish seconds between positions) and as the milk jug fills with old ATF funnel down the fresh ATF through the trans dipstick tube at aprox. the same rate. So when the gallong jug is filled you should have 4 empty quarts of ATF. When the fluid looks new, you have replaced most all of it. Now check the dipstick and add a 1/4 bottle at a time until you are satisfied with the fluid level. I do 15 quarts on mine. Because of the aformentioned gunk, I strongly urge you to add an external in-line transmission filter. The factory filter will stop particles down to about 120-130 micron in size. A 40 micron particle can hinder valve body components. Lastly, you really should go to ford and purchase a separator plate with bonded gaskets and any TSBs they have for your trans.

In my personal transmission, I did the following with EXCELLENT results...

In the transmission I pulled the valve body out and replaced my EPC solenoid with a higher quality borq warner unit (the factory bosch EPC has poor flow and uses the armature to pull back meaning it is very weak and small crap will hold it up) I installed the transgo shift correction kit using the heavy springs on the forward control modulator. I also purchased a sonnax increased ratio boost valve. For the low/reverse servo I used a viton seal kit. A cheap drain plug kit in the transmission pan will make future filter changes MUCH nicer! All other solenoids were within their resistive values so they were reused.

Outside the transmission I used a 30K transmission cooler, remote filter, and replaced everything with AMSOIL ATF (15 quarts).

After doing this, my line pressure at idle increased from 22.5psi to 27.5psi and full throttle from 65psi to nearly 80psi. If I set my shift firmness to increase 25% (on my SCT X3 programmer) it WILL chirp the tires in the first two gear changes. Set to normal and it will shift firm. Under a lot of throttle it still has "authority".

The reason I type this is because there are guys who will tell you NOT to change the fluid. But most of them tell you because of "hear say". I agree that the flushing machines can be bad. This is mostly because they use high pressure, the technician does NOT replace the filter, and some will reverse-flow the circuits blowing all the gunk in the filter out and into your fluid circuits. But a simple fluid replacement uses YOUR transmission pump so its the same operating pressures seen when you drive. Best of all, you can do it yourself!

 

[bilzy7]

My brothers explorer, the tranny went so he got a 90k mile one and within 10k miles it's slipping. The main seal from engine is f'ed up. They just told him to add fluid as needed. I think they messed it up installing... At least my tranny is good.

 

[exbass94]

I thank you all for the advice. I will be getting a tranny flush tomorrow. They obviously change the filter too right? Stupid question had to ask haha.

It's not really a stupid question. A lot of time, NO the shop does not automatically drop the pan and change the filter. They usually just change the fluid without touching the pan. You'll probably have to specifically ask them to do it, and they'll probably charge extra.

...The reason I type this is because there are guys who will tell you NOT to change the fluid. But most of them tell you because of "hear say". I agree that the flushing machines can be bad. This is mostly because they use high pressure, the technician does NOT replace the filter, and some will reverse-flow the circuits blowing all the gunk in the filter out and into your fluid circuits. But a simple fluid replacement uses YOUR transmission pump so its the same operating pressures seen when you drive. Best of all, you can do it yourself!

Speaking of hear say, a lot of people talk about these flush machines that use high pressure, and push fluid backwards and stuff, and I have never seen such a machine, nor know of any shop that uses one. Every flush machine I've seen simply uses the transmission's own pump to exchange fluid. The term "flush" is really a misnomer, the correct term is "fluid exchange."
It's totally harmless.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Speaking of hear say, a lot of people talk about these flush machines that use high pressure, and push fluid backwards and stuff, and I have never seen such a machine, nor know of any shop that uses one. Every flush machine I've seen simply uses the transmission's own pump to exchange fluid. The term "flush" is really a misnomer, the correct term is "fluid exchange."
It's totally harmless.

You're right, they are two different terms for two different processes.

An exchange involves a machine with a diaphram or cylinder. New fluid is filled in the machine. The return line to the transmission connects here. The supply line connects to the other side. The pressure from the supply line pushes the diaphram or cylinder driving new fluid into the return line under the pump's own pressure. A pressure gauge on the supply side will jump when there is no new fluid left. The local Ford dealer here has a machine with a cylinder.

A flush DOES have its own pump. It forces fluid through the transmission to loosen particles. This is the machine to be wary of. Although the 5R55E (and variants) use a one way pump that cannot be back flushed, some transmissions can. The "lube pros" in town have a machine for transmissions that has a 8" round by 10" long sealed motor on the bottom. It connects to a small pump that you can easily see.

But you can just do it yourself and save the money. I see no logic in never changing your transmission fluid. For those who do believe it causes more harm to replace their fluid, would you never change your engine oil?

 

[trikerider]

reviving an older thread here but when I dropped the pan on my '94 I found the filter pre-screen was badly split and hanging down. the fluid could have gone for some months I think as it was'nt 'burnt' appearing and had lubricity it seems I swapped for new when doing a shift kit mod.
the magnet on the pan was covered w/a good deal of dark 'sludge' stuck to it which means I suppose that they are effective at preventing wear due to iron particles being trapped
the result is smoother shifting and it seems quiter operation. I drained/refilled the transfer case also.