Swapping out T-Case Issues

[Lunchbox88]

1998 Ranger 5-speed 3.0 v6

While replacing the transfer case on my truck I noticed that the front output shaft uses the newer CV style connection while the transfer case I purchased as a replacement uses the older universal style output. Parts numbers between the two don't match and after looking into it, I didn't find anything deeper than the fact that it is the same case with a different output style. So perhaps it is feasible to just unbolt my newer CV style joint and bolt it up on the older unit?
FYI - Both say they are BW 1354 cases, but the sticker on the one in my truck has a 8aa, while the one Im trying to replace it with has a 5aa.

Thanks,

 

[Lunchbox88]

Anyone have any ideas? With as many t-case swaps that go on I figured this would be an easy one. I can post pics and more info if it would be helpful.

 

[4x4junkie]

Seems I heard someone was able to swap the yokes over, though I would look into using the double cardan driveshaft that went with the older case. It's a much better design IMO (better in the long run).

 

[Lunchbox88]

Would the attachment point at the front differential be different? Or could I just go and buy a new front shaft with the older style connection?

 

[4x4junkie]

Pretty sure it's the same 1310 style u-joint at the axle (both are D35 axles), though maybe someone else can verify for sure.

 

[escort_gts]

post a pictures of the two transfer cases.

 

[Lunchbox88]

post a pictures of the two transfer cases.

Sorry for the delay in getting the pictures, but here they are.

The first one is of my current CV style transfer case:

And these two are of the one Im trying to replace it with:

Do these help? I can get different pictures if you need more info.

Thanks,

 

[escort_gts]

basicly they are the same transfer cases, just different front outputs. The front yokes should be able to unbolt and swap them between the two cases.

Why are you wanting to change them?

 

[Lunchbox88]

basicly they are the same transfer cases, just different front outputs. The front yokes should be able to unbolt and swap them between the two cases.

Why are you wanting to change them?

Im changing out the transfer cases because my current one is broken. After I put it into 4lo, if I let the clutch out loud clunking and skipping sounds come from my t-case. Its been like that since I bought the ruck about 2 years ago and just got the time to start messing with it. The shift motor seems to be working fine so i decided I would just swap my t-case to remedy the problem instead of trying to rebuild it.

 

[AllanD]

the drive shaft to go looking for to install a double cardan T-case into a 1998-up ranger that came with an electric t-case with the "Cup" is the front driveshaft from a 1995 or 1996 NON-5.0 Explorer

the front attachment point is identical, the shaft length is "proper" to the earlier style case

I've actually seen someone remove a functioning "cup" style case from a 1999 Ranger
and replace the case and the front shaft because they didn't like the CV joint...

Not sure why, it's not like that CV joint is there to do more than allow for motor mount flex.

And that style CV joint works FINE for drive AXLES which see the torque between the diff and the wheels.

IF someone has taken the CV apart and it no longer "works right" disassemble again and rotate the outer race one position and reassemble.

there are six possible ways of reassembling it (not counting installing the outer race flipped fron to back) only three of those positions will work.

the other three "wrong positions" will not allow flex or "plunge"

$2800? I doubt I have $2800 into my entire truck and that included atleast four of the six engines
more transmissions than I'm willing to count I've swapped through or converting it from 2wd to 4x4.

then again I've used my truck numerous times as a mobile test bed for engines, transmissions and axles.
that are being shipped to the west coast.

If it works perfectly for a month in my truck with my very unforgiving sensibilities I know it isn't
going to be comming back after I ship the phucker to seattle...


Rant warning:
BTW, don't come into this house and blame an innocent Ranger for the previous owner's neglect,
abuse, and/or ignorance or for your own lack of mechanical aptitude.
(When you pay someone else to work on a used vehicle the only possible outcome is
a sore ass & an empty wallet)

The money paid to a mechanic is better spent on factory manuals and as
many tools as you can afford.

People who are not capable of working on their own shit should stick to vehicles that are
traded of when the warrantee expires.

And Rangers are no worse than any other vehicle and often much better...
Treat a toyota or nissan like most people treat domestic trucks and they
turn to shit so much faster....



AD

 

[escort_gts]

Rant warning:
BTW, don't come into this house and blame an innocent Ranger for the previous owner's neglect,
abuse, and/or ignorance or for your own lack of mechanical aptitude.
(When you pay someone else to work on a used vehicle the only possible outcome is
a sore ass & an empty wallet)

The money paid to a mechanic is better spent on factory manuals and as
many tools as you can afford.

People who are not capable of working on their own shit should stick to vehicles that are
traded of when the warrantee expires.

And Rangers are no worse than any other vehicle and often much better...
Treat a toyota or nissan like most people treat domestic trucks and they
turn to shit so much faster....



AD

Well said AllanD. My thoughts exactly

 

[Lunchbox88]

the drive shaft to go looking for to install a double cardan T-case into a 1998-up ranger that came with an electric t-case with the "Cup" is the front driveshaft from a 1995 or 1996 NON-5.0 Explorer

the front attachment point is identical, the shaft length is "proper" to the earlier style case

I've actually seen someone remove a functioning "cup" style case from a 1999 Ranger
and replace the case and the front shaft because they didn't like the CV joint...

Not sure why, it's not like that CV joint is there to do more than allow for motor mount flex.

And that style CV joint works FINE for drive AXLES which see the torque between the diff and the wheels.

IF someone has taken the CV apart and it no longer "works right" disassemble again and rotate the outer race one position and reassemble.

there are six possible ways of reassembling it (not counting installing the outer race flipped fron to back) only three of those positions will work.

the other three "wrong positions" will not allow flex or "plunge"

$2800? I doubt I have $2800 into my entire truck and that included atleast four of the six engines
more transmissions than I'm willing to count I've swapped through or converting it from 2wd to 4x4.

then again I've used my truck numerous times as a mobile test bed for engines, transmissions and axles.
that are being shipped to the west coast.

If it works perfectly for a month in my truck with my very unforgiving sensibilities I know it isn't
going to be comming back after I ship the phucker to seattle...


Rant warning:
BTW, don't come into this house and blame an innocent Ranger for the previous owner's neglect,
abuse, and/or ignorance or for your own lack of mechanical aptitude.
(When you pay someone else to work on a used vehicle the only possible outcome is
a sore ass & an empty wallet)

The money paid to a mechanic is better spent on factory manuals and as
many tools as you can afford.

People who are not capable of working on their own shit should stick to vehicles that are
traded of when the warrantee expires.

And Rangers are no worse than any other vehicle and often much better...
Treat a toyota or nissan like most people treat domestic trucks and they
turn to shit so much faster....



AD

Thanks for the info about the front shafts, Im heading to the junkyard next weekend.

I am a bit confused about the rant though, I didnt blame anyone for anything, all I have been trying to do is give facts about my current issue. I also never compared a ranger to a foreign truck in any way.

 

[kevinsranger]

Thanks for the info about the front shafts, Im heading to the junkyard next weekend.

I am a bit confused about the rant though, I didnt blame anyone for anything, all I have been trying to do is give facts about my current issue. I also never compared a ranger to a foreign truck in any way.

are you local to jersey? i have the transfercase you need, and i need the one you have