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swapping a 2.9 with a 2.9 questions


Yeah the motor came without the accessories (power steering, AC, alternator) so I've gotta switch all my stuff anyway. There's a brand new clutch/flywheel/slave on the old motor (I got 10 miles out of it before I realized the thrust gearing in the motor was way past gone and the rings are toast and it kept pushing the rear main seal out).

Is there a way to leave the injectors in place? I'd rather not mess with those o-rings at the bottom. Had enough trouble finding a clutch disconnect o-ring.

The O-Rings are cheap. A few bucks and found damn near anywhere. Just change them.
 
problem solved either way I think...it's tight, but with the intake off I'll be able to get a proper socket on it and put some muscle into it.
 
ok, now I'm at the point where I set the timing. I can't find the pin-in-line connector for spout. If I use an inductive timing light, do I still need to disconnect that wire?
 
do you mean you cant find the spout disconnect? its on the passenger side of the intake. its a little plug looking thing about the size of a monopoly hotel. you have to disconnect it to accurately set timing. if you dont, the computer will constantly move the timing around while you are trying to set it.
 
ok, it's all in there. two problems:

the top end seems much more noisy than the old one. I've got 50psi cold at idle. I'm not sure if it was this noisy before as I wasn't able to see it running when I bought it, shame on me. I'll see if it goes away once it warms up, any ideas how to figure out if it's valvetrain noise for sure?

Second problem: the key won't engage the starter. The "check oil" light lights when I turn the key, and nothing happens. Any ideas? I can get it to turn over and start if I hook up a remote starter switch to the fender mounted solenoid.

edit: guess I'm in the clear. now it starts fine, and the noises quit. probably just stiff from sitting. I'll do an hours driving on it tomorrow to be sure.
 
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