Swapped Electric fan kit, wont turn off. Bad control module?

[Curious Hound]

My experience mirrors @PetroleumJunkie412 's. I have my switch in the lower radiator hose. Couldn't get it to work at the right temperatures any other way. I think I'm running a 180 or 190 degree thermostat, too. 195 was too high for me. You may have a wiring issue if it runs immediately on a cold startup.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

ok heres some pics of the kit and whats going on

 

[Eddo Rogue]

My experience mirrors @PetroleumJunkie412 's. I have my switch in the lower radiator hose. Couldn't get it to work at the right temperatures any other way. I think I'm running a 180 or 190 degree thermostat, too. 195 was too high for me. You may have a wiring issue if it runs immediately on a cold startup.

yep running immediately on cold startup. Idk what it could be...I posted pic of my grounding location. The instructions (as pictured) were clear and easy and I followed them to a t. All I can think of is either bad probe or bad controller, neither probe makes an effect, so probably bad controller...

 

[Uncle Gump]

It sure sounds like the controller.

I would just get a temp switch with the right ON OFF temps... put it in your new hose adapter.... ground side switch your fan relay through temp switch....run another relay control circuit to an operator controlled override switch.

Screw that adjustable controller you got....

 

[RonD]

Unplug the sensor and see if fan stays OFF, it should of course, if not then wiring is wrong or relay controller is

 

[Eddo Rogue]

It sure sounds like the controller.

I would just get a temp switch with the right ON OFF temps... put it in your new hose adapter.... ground side switch your fan relay through temp switch....run another relay control circuit to an operator controlled override switch.

Screw that adjustable controller you got....

sounds like a plan, could I just repurpose the relay on my controller for the override?? or should I get a new (non china) one?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Unplug the sensor and see if fan stays OFF, it should of course, if not then wiring is wrong or relay controller is

When I unplug the sensor the fan stays ON ...I tried jumping the prongs on the controller side of the plug, it still stayed on.

 

[Uncle Gump]

You only need one relay... but I wouldn't use the one you have.

One relay with ground from the temp switch and ground from your override switch.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

You only need one relay... but I wouldn't use the one you have.

One relay with ground from the temp switch and ground from your override switch.

Copy that...so this setup would be controlling the ground side, not the hot side correct? I ask because PJ stumped me asking what side my setup controls...Can I get good relay from autozone/oreillys? or must I amazon and wait? which I will be doing anyways for the american volt thermostat switch(es) that PJ recommended...I got 2 diff temp settings just in case, in 1/8 npt (which I have a tap and adapters for if its the wrong size for my hose adapter).

 

[RonD]

In the instructions is shows the BLUE wire as the ON/OFF for the relay

In automotive relays 85 and 86 slots need a ground and 12v to turn ON the relay
When a relay is ON slots 30 and 87 are connected, this is the 30 or 40amp LOAD the 12volts that runs the fan motor

87A should NOT be used in this setup

In the diagram 85 is grounded, which makes 86(blue wire) the 12v activation wire

So the Controller uses the Blue wire to turn on the relay and fan motor
And with no sensor connected I would expect the controller to deactivate the Relay, cut 12v on blue wire, but..............

There is a thing called Fail Safe, in an e-fan system if there were to be a temp sensor failure you would want it to "fail safe" which would be with the fan ON full time
So no sensor may cause controller to activate the relay

So the sensor itself is what deactivates the controller when it connected and blow temp setting, you don't have a circuit diagram of that and I didn't see one on their website, so can't say, but I would design it that way

If you have an OHM meter you could test the probe type sensor to see how it reacts to a Match/lighter, do OHMs go UP ot DOWN as it heats up
If so then probe is probably working

 

[Eddo Rogue]

In the instructions is shows the BLUE wire as the ON/OFF for the relay

In automotive relays 85 and 86 slots need a ground and 12v to turn ON the relay
When a relay is ON slots 30 and 87 are connected, this is the 30 or 40amp LOAD the 12volts that runs the fan motor

87A should NOT be used in this setup

In the diagram 85 is grounded, which makes 86(blue wire) the 12v activation wire

So the Controller uses the Blue wire to turn on the relay and fan motor
And with no sensor connected I would expect the controller to deactivate the Relay, cut 12v on blue wire, but..............

There is a thing called Fail Safe, in an e-fan system if there were to be a temp sensor failure you would want it to "fail safe" which would be with the fan ON full time
So no sensor may cause controller to activate the relay

So the sensor itself is what deactivates the controller, maybe, you don't have a circuit diagram of that ad I didn't see one on their website

If you have an OHM meter you could test the probe type sensor to see how it reacts to a Match/lighter, do OHMs go UP ot DOWN as it heats up
If so then probe is probably working

dang good idea I should try that...I would like to at least rule that out, or in...Also yes I think its fail safe keeping it on when unplugging sensor. Instructions said Blue to Blue (controller to relay). Honestly I kinda suck at relays, gotta really study em and connect the dots before I can picture what its doing circuit and switch wise...I was totally reliant on the instructions and wire color coding.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Just realized and wondering if I could just splice in my non adjustable sensor (when it arrives) into or around the adjustable controller, so as to not have to run all new wiring again?

 

[RonD]

You would need to see what the ohms are on probe to know if other temp sensor will work

OHMS usually go down as temp goes up on these types of sensors

No you shouldn't have to rewire anything

The controller/relay activates the Fan Relay

The controller/relay and sensor are all that's in question because the Fan relay works, fan comes on

You haven't hooked up the Green AC wire yet, correct?
As 12v on that wire would activate fan

And fan goes off with key OFF, correct?
That means its wired to ignition OK

So either the sensor is bad, and BOTH being bad is a long shot, so Controller/relay is bad, best guess

 

[Eddo Rogue]

You would need to see what the ohms are on probe to know if other temp sensor will work

OHMS usually go down as temp goes up on these types of sensors

No you shouldn't have to rewire anything

The controller/relay activates the Fan Relay

The controller/relay and sensor are all that's in question because the Fan relay works, fan comes on

You haven't hooked up the Green AC wire yet, correct?
As 12v on that wire would activate fan

And fan goes off with key OFF, correct?
That means its wired to ignition OK

So either the sensor is bad, and BOTH being bad is a long shot, so Controller/relay is bad, best guess

hmm I was just gonna check it cold and hot for any variance....

you're right, looks like I can just yank out the controller part of it and just do the minimal wiring of the non adjustable unit (and new relay)

I did hook up the green wire, then disconnected it just to rule it out. Didn't make a difference.

I have the 12v source spliced to a key on only power source, so yes key off does kill the fan.

So far all signs are pointing to bad controller.

I tested the relays and they seemed good, but either way I'm gonna grab new a brand name one for the new sensor.

I found the same controller that came w/ my kit for $22 on ebay, so I think most of my money went into the nice fancy shroud and fan, which does cool down fast with a relatively low amp draw. Im not so butt hurt anymore about the bad controller....just annoyed about having another cycle of ordering and waiting for parts and being down in the meantime.

and after your guys' replies I may go back the 180 thermostat... have a plethora of various degrees left over from my temp issue fiasco...

My truck liked the 180, but many posts on here steered me towards the higher temp ones, and I went 195 because that was the factory motorcraft (and it had the bypass jiggler). the 180 hardly moved, my 195 is constantly moving regardless of driving conditions (thankfully not much anymore).

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

You would need to see what the ohms are on probe to know if other temp sensor will work

OHMS usually go down as temp goes up on these types of sensors

No you shouldn't have to rewire anything

The controller/relay activates the Fan Relay

The controller/relay and sensor are all that's in question because the Fan relay works, fan comes on

You haven't hooked up the Green AC wire yet, correct?
As 12v on that wire would activate fan

And fan goes off with key OFF, correct?
That means its wired to ignition OK

So either the sensor is bad, and BOTH being bad is a long shot, so Controller/relay is bad, best guess

The former God fo Canada has spoken.

He was demoted.