Supporting Transmission when moving truck with pulled engine?

[JoshT]

Ah, I didn't think about this. Good call. I don't want to do all this.

It really isn't difficult. Just 4 12mm 12-point bolts holding it to the rear axle flange. I've always pulled them with a 12 point box end wrench. I'll admit that I bought a long one just for doing driveshaft bolts, but hooking two standard length together should give you enough leverage to break them loose.

You only need to get the axle end loose. A 2wd just slides into the back of the transmission, but if you take it out the fluid can drain. A 4wd has a similar bolt flange on the back of the transfer case, but you don't really need to remove it unless you want to. Just time them up to a crossmember so they won't drag while moving.

Don't need to mess with the front shaft at all, it's free wheeling unless the transfer case is engaged.

 

[avid]

It really isn't difficult. Just 4 12mm 12-point bolts holding it to the rear axle flange. I've always pulled them with a 12 point box end wrench. I'll admit that I bought a long one just for doing driveshaft bolts, but hooking two standard length together should give you enough leverage to break them loose.

I had a whole thing last year removing the driveshaft from my Ranger where one of the bolt heads rounded off and it turned into a giant nightmare. I ended up cutting the head off and luckily being able to use a large pipe wrench to rotate the whole driveshaft/flange on the cut bolt to get it to break free, and then once removed a pipe wrench + heat on the cut bolt broke it free.

So I have a little PTSD with those damn bolts.

Anyway the more I think about it, the truck should be fine for a couple days in the driveway. I was going to remove the Mazda engine first to leave a little less to do when I go to put in the rebuilt. But last time I rented an engine hoist so it was a little more rush-rush to get everthing done and the hoist returned. This time I bought a used hoist so I won't be as rushed if I do run into any snags.