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sub/speaker questions?


Welder0800

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
66
City
West Virginia
Vehicle Year
1989
1988
Transmission
Manual
Hello, i'm very new to the world of car audio and i've been trying to do a bit of reading but still had a few questions.
My questions are:
1: Would boxing a set of 6 1/2's or 6x9's and mounting them on the side of the transmission hump sound okay? I'd like to run a 2 channel amp to each, something like 60-75 RMS each?

2: I would like to add a sub but driving an 89 reg cab limits my options. I'm looking at a 350 RMS 1000 watt max dual 4-ohm 8" to put betwwen the bucket seats. Would a 10" hit any harder if it had the same watts? I already have a 2ohm 500RMS watt rated amp BTW.

Thanks for any help. This stuff is like a foreign language sometimes.
 
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an 8 will hit cleaner but not as deep a 10 is medium a 12 is harder bass and a 15 is more bass than clear music.u can get a shallow mount sub to put in the back and coustom build u a box to spec cause its easier to to buld a box than most ppl think. but with an 8 i will tell u if u set it up right u could easily win competions even tho u dont wanna.
 
I just put two kicker 6x9's in a custom box and they sound pretty good
 
Trans hump... Facing the doors or on the top? If your gunna mount them on the side it's gunna be pretty worthless. What's wrong with your door pods? Without doing some heavy custom work those actually are the best place for speakers in your gen ranger. And if you amp them in that spot they will perform quite well.

Also I have never been a fan of 8" subs
You would probably need a shallow mount and shallow mount 8s are pitiful in my book. I have a shallow mount 10 in a custom f.g. Box behind my passenger seat and it hits hard enough with the little bit of rap I listen to but rocks with the rock and county blend I listen to 95% of the time. Also I have seen mdf boxes that fit well and perform well.
Also a shallow mount 10 and 8 are about the same price.
 
my buddy just got two pioneers 6x9s a 12 inch fosgate with a shallow mount box and a 1100 watt renegade 4 channel amp in his 83 standard cab ranger, he has the 6x9s in the door and the sub behind the drivers side of the bench and i can tell u that thing hits on any song u throw at it. he got the whole setup for 250 on sonic electronics, the amp alone costs 179 bucks online so u should get that setup if u wanna have a great system for cheap, just make sure u get ur amp tuned proffesionally cause im sure since ur new u cant tell by the sound. good luck
 
You can get a shallow mount Memphis 10 for decent prices. They sound really good and don't require much power. The doors are your best bet for the 6 1/2s. They will sound alot better than in the trans hump box..

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 
an 8 will hit cleaner but not as deep a 10 is medium a 12 is harder bass and a 15 is more bass than clear music.u can get a shallow mount sub to put in the back and coustom build u a box to spec cause its easier to to buld a box than most ppl think. but with an 8 i will tell u if u set it up right u could easily win competions even tho u dont wanna.

This is wrong.

They will all play just as "deep" and "clean" as each other. Think of a subwoofer, or any speaker for that matter, as an air pump. The larger the air pump, the more air it will move. Frequencies are just the rate at which the cone on the driver moves. A 2" driver can play a 20hz tone, it just may be inaudible because it lacks the surface area to move enough air.

Knowing this, we can accurately determine a couple things. How the two will compare volume wise at full excursion (full cone movement) and how much power it will take to get there.

Most situations, even your 1000 watt amp is only putting out 10% of that. So, you only need "big power" when you are running high volumes. This requires a lot of draw from your electrical system (hence headlight dimming). An easier way to get volume and not have such a pull on your electrical system is to increase surface volume.

That is the difference between an 8 and a 12. 12 offers you more surface volume equating to higher volumes. Now, if you run out and buy one of those huge power subs (highly inefficient because of the large amounts of mass making up the cone) you in essence offset the gain you got by using larger surface area.

I would find a high sensitivity/low power 10" sub. (Unless your real goal is to rattle your neighbors windows).

http://goo.gl/XKvFX

A sub like that would allow you to get plenty of bass in a vehicle, Good sensitivity and a light weight cone. Should only need a 200 watt amp to reach close to max excursion.

It will save you some money (cheaper sub/amp) and save your electrical system.:icon_cheers:
 
And you don't need to do this. There is nothing to tune, other than setting the gain and that is pretty simple.

I think what he was talking about is setting crossover and filter settings. Not alot of people can actually tune in a system, and even some professionals have a problem tuning by ear so if he wants every thing to be set for the absolute best performance he could have it tuned in by a shop with an oscilloscope. Though unless his ear is that of a studio engineer he could probably tune it to where he likes it with a little reading and basic understanding of the settings.

All of this providing he has the ability in the headunit and amp to adjust this.
 

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