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Stupid bottom pully bolt


Ozwynn

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
6,520
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Berrien Springs, MI
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2022
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My credo
If you can't go through it or around it, then go over it.
Can somebody explain to me how my John Force limited edition Mac tools impact driver that makes 1000 ft/lbs torque in reverse was defeated by the crankshaft balancer bolt on a 1990 5.0L Ford V8?
 
You paid too much for the tool.

Get a task force 12 point socket. Put it on a husky breaker bar. Slip an old piece of galvanized pipe over the breaker bar for more leverage. Cuss and swear like a sailor that hasn't seen land in 90 days. And oh, by the way, make sure you're turning the bolt the correct direction.

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Counter clockwise........
And how do you keep the engine from turning using your method. I don't have a second person to help. But I do have a 36" breaker bar
 
I didn't pay too much for my impact driver.... it was a gift from my dad 14 years ago when I got my air compressor. I don't know how long he owned it, but it was a gift to him from John Force himself......
 
That's a cool history on the driver.

I was joking around after having read all the details you used to describe your tool. I do understand that quality tools make a difference.

As for getting the bolt loose, that may take some ingenuity. Penetrating oil? Heat? Melted wax? Leverage.

There ought to be a way to keep the crank from turning. If manual transmission, can you put it in gear? Can you clamp something ( pipe wrench, strap wrench, etc.) on the balancer that could be held against something stationary while you turn the bolt?

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Not enough air pressure/volume.

Set the socket on the crank bolt, set the breaker bar against the frame, bump the engine with the starter. Unplug the coil first just in case.
 
We have winner.... thank you adsm......
 
Not enough air pressure/volume.

Set the socket on the crank bolt, set the breaker bar against the frame, bump the engine with the starter. Unplug the coil first just in case.

i have broke several starter cones doing that....but..i have the warranty.


i am thinking the impact tool is improperly lubricated as well as possible volume issue. see that quite a bit. especially when they sit for extended periods after wet air goes through them.

good prybar on a flywheel tooth wedged off the jack usually works great if you dont have a flywheel holder wrench critter thing.....i have those too.
 
I just lubed it, just now before I read this. My compressor died and the one i barrowed just isn't big enough. I am going to rent a bigger compressor on Saturday to finish this up.
 
ADSMs suggestion should work well.. think what is the ratio for the starter gear to flywheel. my dad used move his tractor out of the way of the truck by just using the starter. I guess safety engineers knew this when they made clutch safety switches mandatory :annoyed:
 
Will a 10g tank @120psi be enough or should I rent the 26g compressor?
10g = $30 to rent
26g = $40 to rent
 
The cfm rating of the compressor itself is more important than tank size. Your impact wrench requires "x" cubic feet per minute (cfm) of air to operate at its fullest potential. For best performance, you need a compressor rated for that much or more. With that being said, compressors sold with larger tank volumes GENERALLY have higher cfm ratings also.


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I should have added that the cfm rating is usually at a particular air pressure. Providing 8cfm at 50psi is much different than 8cfm at 100psi.

If you ever want to buy a compressor, the other important rating is the duty cycle. That is the percentage of time the compressor can operate at capacity without damage. Just like a welder. 50 percent duty rating means it can run half the time at rated output without overheating and causing damage to itself.

A small 12volt compressor with only 25percent duty cycle will not last long if you are using it often to air up large tires. It needs to stop and dissipate heat more often than one with a higher duty cycle. A properly sized tank helps out with this by allowing short spurts of air usage without requiring the compressor to run.

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3/8" air lines and fittings will help your impact immensely.

I had always used 1/4" fittings with 3/8" lines, as do most people. I experimented a little and found that I could torque stuff down, hit it with the same impact using both 1/4 and 3/8 fittings, and the impact wouldn't touch it with the 1/4" ones. But the extra air flow with 3/8" fittings would zip the nut right off. Just a huge difference.

You don't need a real big compressor for an impact, they don't use a ton of air unless you relentlessly rattle on something. I think my little 4 gallon DeWalt and 3/8" hoses/fittings would power my impact very well in a pinch.
 
The cfm rating of the compressor itself is more important than tank size. Your impact wrench requires "x" cubic feet per minute (cfm) of air to operate at its fullest potential. For best performance, you need a compressor rated for that much or more. With that being said, compressors sold with larger tank volumes GENERALLY have higher cfm ratings also.


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I agree. If the cfm rating of the compressor head is correct you could run the gun without a tank. Not recommended but possible.
 

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