Stuck bolt

[Riptide]

Well last night we used a couple "burr" bits that a friend of my stepdad loaned us. The guy is a machinist and said there was no way we'd break these things.

The burr bit didn't seem to do real good at gouging straight in but it made great progress of cleaning out the hole we were starting and making it wider. By switching back and forth between the regular titanium coated dewalt bit we were using and the burr bit much progress was made. The burr bit made all the difference and was strong enough that once we got a little bit deeper we got it right up against the stuck drill bit and it pretty much shredded the thing. The stuck bit flat out flew apart on us and after that it was a piece of cake. We were able to finish drilling the hole in the bolt we needed and the threads are soaking right now. Plan on trying to tap it tomorrow night.

Sure hope that if we can save the threads and put a new bolt on there that the original problem I was trying to fix gets fixed. Either way I have some anti-seize which will be applied to the threads on the new bolts when we go to put them in.

 

[93Ranger4x4]

Glad to hear you got it outta there!!

 

[Riptide]

Hehe well it isn't a win yet. We have the threads soaking but haven't tapped it. I've got to go get a nice tap and die kit from sears tonight.

Assuming we get it tapped good and manage to get it out of there then we'll see how the threads are. I'm going to get some new bolts from a hardware store since the dealer is out right now. If the threads are OK and we manage to get the housing back on there it'll be awesome if the original problem (leak) is fixed. Time will tell.

 

[cocoasranger]

There is a sure way to remove steel drill bits, taps, etc. from aluminum without any damage, but it requires removing the part. Model maker's use this method to remove broken taps from intricate model engines and such.

You position the part so the hole is facing up, then pour a little nitric acid into the hole. After the bubbling stops, clean it up and repeat. This will remove all the steel and leave the threads and aluminum part untouched.

I believe it was nitric acid, but I'd double check this before proceeding.

 

[Riptide]

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

Plasma cutter works great too. Also typically involves removing the part which in this case is something I wanted to avoid if at all possible.

 

[Ranger22]

Once the bolt is out, we will celebrate Riptide!!!

 

[Riptide]

We bought some replacement bolts tonight.

Are they the correct thread pitch? M8-1,25

Thanks

 

[Mutant Pony]

Should be M6-1.00. That is what mine were.
Or is it actually a 4.0?
My 3.0s have 3, M6-1.00 bolts.

 

[Riptide]

It's a 3.0 V6.

So looks like we have the wrong size then?

 

[Mutant Pony]

No, I screwed up. I was thinking of a 2.9 I was working on.
The 3.0 is M8-1.25.

 

[Riptide]

Thanks. It looked identical but I wanted to be sure. The threads in the intake aren't in the greatest shape so it's better to get it right the first time in this situation.

 

[chico4554]

are you able to pry the thermostat housing off the broken bolt? I had one come out and one break but was able to get the housing off off the intake by prying it off the bolt. Unless the actual housing is threaded you should be able to do this. Then just get the bolt out with vice grips and when you put the new bolts in put a bunch o' anti seize on them.


sorry, just read that you already got it out...

 

[Riptide]

It hasn't come out yet. The threads have been soaking now for a good 24 hours. My buddy is coming over tonight and we'll try to get it out then. We've got the hole drilled and are ready to tap it.

I went to Sears last night and they had a TON of things to use. I could just get a regular tap and die set with the vice grips. Or I could get easy out attachments for my drill. I'm not sure what's the best approach to use here. So I'm waiting for my friend to come over tonight before I buy anything.