stripped pinch bolt (aaargh!) - what now?

[beerhunter]

My truck (1990 2.9 4WD) seems determined to fight me all the way...

Having finally got the lower b/j castle nut undone, I tried to undo the pinch bolt. I read online that it's a 12mm 12-point head, so that's the socket I used. It seemed like a good fit, but one socket (and not a cheap make) split when I tried to undo it.

I tried with another, and it has now just stripped the points off the bolt head, so it's well and truly stuck now.

Anyone had this, and if so, how did you work around? As far as I can see, the only thing I can do is drill out the bolt, and replace it with a longer bolt and ny-loc nut.

Is this the way to go? I doubt I'd be able to tap a new thread accurately enough. Is having a nut there going to cause clearance issues?

Is only the far side threaded?

many thanks

P.S. Is it normal for them to be so tight?

 

[adsm08]

Yes it is normal for them to get tight. They are exposed to everything and crap gets into the threads.

Only the far side is threaded, otherwise it would never pinch up.

If you have a torch I'd apply some heat to the threads and see if it will walk with a round-off socket. An impact gun would help as well. If you don't, drill it and drop a long bolt with a nut.

If you have to drill I'd start on the threaded side, since once you drill the threads out the other side should just punch out.

 

[beerhunter]

Thanks for coming back to me. I'll try a bit of heat first, and wallop a sacrificial socket on.

How much heat is required? I appreciate that's a difficult question to answer, but should there be any indication of when it has got hot enough?

If I do end up having to drill, what spec bolt should I get?

Thanks again

 

[Denisefwd93]

Thanks for coming back to me. I'll try a bit of heat first, and wallop a sacrificial socket on.

How much heat is required? I appreciate that's a difficult question to answer, but should there be any indication of when it has got hot enough?

If I do end up having to drill, what spec bolt should I get?

Thanks again

I had that same issue when we rebuilt the front end on my truck. $20 at Lowe's saved hours and hours of misery, they have sharp reverse teeth that grip more when turning counterclockwise. https://m.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt-Extractor-Set/50146292

new bolts come with the upper ball joints

 

[beerhunter]

Thanks, I'll pick up a set tomorrow and give them a go.

The new ball joint does have a new bolt. However, if I need to drill out, then I'll need a longer one in order to get a nut on the end. Any idea what grade the pinch bolts are?

Thanks again

 

[Denisefwd93]

Thanks, I'll pick up a set tomorrow and give them a go.

The new ball joint does have a new bolt. However, if I need to drill out, then I'll need a longer one in order to get a nut on the end. Any idea what grade the pinch bolts are?

Thanks again

The new ball joints come with a longer bolt also so you're still covered. I lost all my pictures on Photobucket so I can't show you a picture of the socket with the ratchet but it worked very very well! you can actually Hammer this extractor socket onto the 12-point head

Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Those "easy-out" sockets are one of the best investments I ever made. I bought a 12 or 14 piece set and don't regret it at all. However I don't even bother with regular easy-outs anymore [after breaking a few], just go directly to drill and tap for "heli-coil" inserts.

 

[beerhunter]

Thanks all for the replies. The thing is off, finally! That bolt just wasn't letting go - the bolt removers rounded off, and we tried welding a nut on to the bolt, but it just sheered off. Ended up drilling it out. I bought some cobalt bits, and they were waaaay quicker than "normal" HSS.

Thanks again - stand by for more questions when I try to press the old b/js out!

 

[beerhunter]

I offered up the bolt that came with the new b/j - unfortunately, this isn't going to be long enough.

I've been trying to source a grade 8 (or 10.9 in metric) replacement, but I'm having difficulty.

This is what I got with the new B/J - I basically need exactly this, but approx. 20mm longer. Can anyone tell me if this design/type has a specific name?

https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/strut-mount-spindle-pinch-bolt-and-nut.html?3593=1440721

I've been looking at flange-head bolts, the problem is the flange is very thin, unlike the 9.5mm flange on my bolt...

As the bolt goes in to a 17mm recess, I can't use a hex head, as 12mm bolts have a 19mm head...

I read in a thread that later rangers and explorers have a pinch bolt that shoots all the way through. Can anyone tell me what year?

Thanks again!

 

[Denisefwd93]

I offered up the bolt that came with the new b/j - unfortunately, this isn't going to be long enough.

I've been trying to source a grade 8 (or 10.9 in metric) replacement, but I'm having difficulty.

This is what I got with the new B/J - I basically need exactly this, but approx. 20mm longer. Can anyone tell me if this design/type has a specific name?

https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/strut-mount-spindle-pinch-bolt-and-nut.html?3593=1440721

I've been looking at flange-head bolts, the problem is the flange is very thin, unlike the 9.5mm flange on my bolt...

As the bolt goes in to a 17mm recess, I can't use a hex head, as 12mm bolts have a 19mm head...

I read in a thread that later rangers and explorers have a pinch bolt that shoots all the way through. Can anyone tell me what year?

Thanks again!

You sure are having your problems... I walked away when I came back both had washers under the heads and they were tight so I guess that works for us, they were plenty long enough and they were Moog bjs

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[adsm08]

Thickness of the flange isn't that important. The Moog bolt was likely designed that way so they could use a smaller hex since it is a tight spot.

If you can get a flanged bolt with a thinner flange that fits I would not worry about using it. It is a high-tension spot, but not a high stress one.

 

[beerhunter]

Thanks, that'll make life a bit easier.

 

[beerhunter]

Hi, before I screw this up, should these press out upwards or downwards?

I.e. Should I be screwing upwards against the flat base, or screwing downwards against the pointy end?

Thanks