Strange noises... sometimes....

[partsguy84823]

Hi guys, I'm starting to notice some noise as I am slowing down. It is kind of a rumbling/grinding, almost like a bearing noise, but it only happens from about 15mph to 5mph. It doesnt really sound like a pinion bearing and it is fairly quiet. I will also sometimes get the same sound while turning at low speeds, direction doesnt matter. It does sound more like it is coming from the front end.

Please let me know what you think could be causing this... I have a trip planned to the ORP within the next few weeks, and I'd like to know that I'm not going to complicate an existing problem because this is my DD.

Thanks all!

-Chris

 

[partsguy84823]

bump...

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I would start out with checking the front wheel bearings for sure. Jack it up and grab the top and bottom of the tire and push/pull and see if you have any play. If you do, you need to replace them.

 

[partsguy84823]

fun fun... well I've been thinking about putting the AVM hubs in it anyway, so... I suppose nows as good a time as any...

I'll check it out tomorrow.

Thanks for the input!

 

[feellnfroggy]

also check the front diff fluid. but like said above check the wheel bearings and look for tears in the cv axle boots.

 

[partsguy84823]

Well the CVs look good, and so does the front diff fluid level. Don't know why it would have mattered much because the front axle doesn't turn in 2wd. But fluid level hadn't been checked in a while so... i checked it. I haven't had a good chance to jack the truck up, i live in an apartment during the school year so the only good wrench time I get is on weekends when I can drive 3 hours to my parents house. I'll check it out next time I get home. Thanks for all the help.

Just out of curiosity, would rear wheel or carrier or pinion bearings only make noise in a narrow and slow speed range? How about u-joints (they are original with 150k on them)?

What are the symptoms of a partially engaged front hub?

Any help would be great, thanks for everything so far.

 

[PaleBlue90]

i had a u-joint make a high pitched noise while driveing so i guess its possible

 

[partsguy84823]

ha ha good to know, I know it's not likely, but those front hub assemblies are so damned expensive that I am looking for just about anything else it could be. Although I guess I would rather it be a front bearing than something in the diff...

 

[feellnfroggy]

Well the CVs look good, and so does the front diff fluid level. Don't know why it would have mattered much because the front axle doesn't turn in 2wd. But fluid level hadn't been checked in a while so... i checked it. I haven't had a good chance to jack the truck up, i live in an apartment during the school year so the only good wrench time I get is on weekends when I can drive 3 hours to my parents house. I'll check it out next time I get home. Thanks for all the help.

Just out of curiosity, would rear wheel or carrier or pinion bearings only make noise in a narrow and slow speed range? How about u-joints (they are original with 150k on them)?

What are the symptoms of a partially engaged front hub?

Any help would be great, thanks for everything so far.

You have automatic hubs.(not manual) so the hubs are always locked in meaning when the wheels turn so does the front axles and the front driveshaft, the only thing is the front axle is disconnected at the transfer case in 2wd so there is no power going to it. If you had manual hubs then you could disengage the wheels from the axleshafts and the front driveline would not turn. In this case it does and My expedition made those noises because the front diff fluid was full but burnt and had not lubricating properties.

 

[c_note]

You have automatic hubs.(not manual) so the hubs are always locked in meaning when the wheels turn so does the front axles and the front driveshaft, the only thing is the front axle is disconnected at the transfer case in 2wd so there is no power going to it. If you had manual hubs then you could disengage the wheels from the axleshafts and the front driveline would not turn. In this case it does and My expedition made those noises because the front diff fluid was full but burnt and had not lubricating properties.

-he has automatic hubs in the front so the diff does not spin in 2wd.

-he said that he had already check the diff fluid already and it was good to go.



now you just need to jack the truck up and check the hub assy/wheel bearings. most likely if the wheel bearings are shot, you rotor and brakes are shot too.
wheel bearings go bad when you neglect to change out the brake pads, the pads wear enough to create extreme friction on the rotor, rotor gets worn to hell and creates more heat, heat melts the unreplenishable grease in the hub assembly, bearings wear out the inside of the hubs.

moral to the story... check your break pads for wear!

 

[partsguy84823]

okay... I like your thinking, but... they are not worn out. In fact I don't even think I have ever let the pads get to where they were "ready" to be replaced. Like I said, the only real time I have to work on the truck it when I go to my parents for the weekend. That doesn't happen a lot, so I tend to do things before their due if I think it will become a problem before I can get back up there. I've been known to change oil 1,000 miles early, and replace brake pads with 1/4 of their meat left on them. I think you are probably right about the noise being from the front wheel bearing though. I just dont want it to be...

 

[96Greenster]

Did u figure it out?

Hey wuzup man. I have a similar noise coming from my front end also. My truck grinds and has vibration on the steering wheel, not all the time though, around 15 to whatever speed and doesnt stop until the truck is aprox 5 mph. The wheels dont have any play what so ever, but do feel rough while spining the wheel by hand...$$$$$$ I ordered my wheel bearing already, so ill keep my fingers crossed. Im just curious if u fixed it.

 

[96Greenster]

-he has automatic hubs in the front so the diff does not spin in 2wd.

-he said that he had already check the diff fluid already and it was good to go.



now you just need to jack the truck up and check the hub assy/wheel bearings. most likely if the wheel bearings are shot, you rotor and brakes are shot too.
wheel bearings go bad when you neglect to change out the brake pads, the pads wear enough to create extreme friction on the rotor, rotor gets worn to hell and creates more heat, heat melts the unreplenishable grease in the hub assembly, bearings wear out the inside of the hubs.

moral to the story... check your break pads for wear!

This post makes perfect sense in my case. Now, 1st tip was that my caliper was previously sticking, which caused wear followed by the worst...heat. Now I replaced caliper, rotor and pads on both sides just to be comfortable, the only thing left is the wheel hub, that was probably damaged by the old caliper. So wish me luck for Monday, when I replace the hub. Hopefully solves my grinding/vibration.

 

[partsguy84823]

Let me know if it fixes it, mine is still making noise...

 

[feellnfroggy]

-he has automatic hubs in the front so the diff does not spin in 2wd.

-he said that he had already check the diff fluid already and it was good to go.



now you just need to jack the truck up and check the hub assy/wheel bearings. most likely if the wheel bearings are shot, you rotor and brakes are shot too.
wheel bearings go bad when you neglect to change out the brake pads, the pads wear enough to create extreme friction on the rotor, rotor gets worn to hell and creates more heat, heat melts the unreplenishable grease in the hub assembly, bearings wear out the inside of the hubs.

moral to the story... check your break pads for wear!

Your totally right, Up until a littel while ago, I didnt realize the difference between the auto hubs and the fulltime stuff on the newer vehicles. I had right info, wrong hubs.

The other thing I would do is dismantle the front brakes completely. I took mine apart on teh expeditiona nd the inside of the rotor had broken and the brake pads were stopping on the slats that are inside the rotor, the entire inside face was gone. When the rotor spins fast you dont feel it, but as you slow it really shows that you are stopping on strips of metal. I have heard of alot of ford factory rotors doing this. Ive changed two sets on two vehicles myself (granted tenyears apart)