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Stolen battery


rocketroy

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
8
City
Vancouver
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
Hi and thanks in advance for your time.
Someone opened my unlocked passengers door..I forgot to lock it.
The popped the hood and slashed all the battery wires and stole. The battery .
I have a 1988 2wd 2.9 manual box ranger.
Now it turns over but won't run.it turns over fast, I checked for a spark in two plugs and there's is a spark.
I took a length of garden hose. Took off the air intake hose poured a cup of has in to the intake manifold and it ran for 25 seconds or soi think they might have shorted something when the slashed the wires,which I have replaced.
There is one black wire that is about 12 long before is disappears in to the loom it has a connector like a fused holder in it..I can't remember whether is positive or negative. But if I touch that wire on to the positive side the check engine light comes on even with no key...
So is there a relays switch or a fuse that would cause no fuel..or maybe cause I haven't used it in 3 months and left it with 1/4 tank there is condensation in the gas. But it turns over fine ,has spark. And no history of miss fire poor running . The battery was stolen the wires slashed now it won't fire....

Any suggestion please.....
 
If they slashed he wires they could have crossed wires and shorted something out. If it runs with starting fluid and gas but won't run on its own its got a fuel delivery issue and apparently you have air and spark. I would put some fuel stabilizer and new fuel in the rig and make sure your getting power at the pump
 
Could be anything... popped fuses, fried computer, tripped inertia switch.... you're going to have to do some more troubleshooting.

Positive wire should go to a starter solenoid on the fender. Not sure if there are two positive wires or not on that year, I want to say there are and one goes into the harness. The negative wire goes to the frame and to the engine block. Plus there is a small negative that grounds to the body by the battery and there might be a couple grounds in the harness that connect to the negative post. If everything is not connected up properly, it's not going to run. Connect it up backwards and you risk blowing a fuse or fuseable link.
 
There should be two wires from each battery terminal.
Large "+" cable to starter solenoid
Smaller "+" cable to power distribution box
On some models the smaller wire for the power distribution is not on the battery but connects to the same post on the starter solenoid as the larger "=" cable, so it gets battery power full time.

Large "-" cable to engine Block
Smaller "-" to Radiator Support
There can be 2 smaller wires, if so then 2nd smaller wire connects to inner fender/body


Diagram here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG
 
i dont think the 88 will have a distribution block. should have a pos cable leaving the battery and going to one post on the starter relay. that same post should also have 2-3 fusible links with ring terminals that go down into the wiring harness. the other post on the relay should go to the starter.
 
Thanks, yep I have the positive cable on the solenoid and I have the negative on the frame and block sorted,I did see the radiator soy port ground and I have that sorted.,there's just one other wire. It's black has a connector that looks like a fused holder ,but it's not it's like 12 inches long before it goes in to the main loom and if I connect it to the positive side the engine light comes on even with no key in..ok so I have to check fuel delivery. Thanks.
 
Pretty sure that wire is a direct ground for the computer. No computer means no fuel.

Sent from my HTCEVOV4G using Tapatalk now Free
 
There is a feeling when you go from complete frustration to jumping up and down like an 8 year old kid at Christmas as a 47 year old I still do that.
The small black wire which was the only mystery to me was the ground wire for the fuel pump relay.and even tho I connected it,stripping new wire ,wire brushing and all.n
It just wasn't juicing up the relay even tho I looked at it 5 times.
So I kook of the new terminal I splice on the end. Took the bare wires wrapped them around the negative terminal and lightly tapped there negative on the post.
The second I did that I heard the negative relay click,having left the key in the run position to see if I could hear it click. Then I went inside,looked at my kid..here goes nothing. And it fired up immediately and ran like a top.
By searching this forum here and there I found out that the 88 fuel relay is the black one with green top..
And yes I jumped up and down like a little kid.
Me my 13 daughter and 12 year old jack Russell are mobile again...thanks.
 
Could be an issue in that................

The Fuel pump relay doesn't have a direct "Ground", the "ground" for the fuel pump relay comes from the computer, blue/orange wire.
Fuel pump should only run for 2 seconds when key is turned on, then computer will ground it on/off according to RPM and throttle position.
So check to make sure fuel pump is only running for 2 seconds when you turn on the key.
If it runs all the time you will cause it to fail early.

There are 3 relays in a row, fuel pump relay, WOT(wide open throttle) relay and the EEC relay.

The EEC relay may be what you grounded, it does have a black/white wire for a ground.
The EEC relay powers the fuel pump relay, the spark, computer and the injectors.
But you wouldn't have had spark if that was ungrounded
 
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

I don't see anything in that ^ schematic that shows the Computer (or the EEC relay for that matter) having anything to do with spark. It does refer to the ECA, but I've never heard of a Ford Computer referred to as anything other than ECM or PCM. Especially since, in that same schematic, the key in Run power (R/LG) goes to the EEC. I believe there is a separate ignition part, called an ECA, Electronic Control Assembly, that controls spark, along with the ICM.

I do see the computer controlling ignition in 90:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_Ignitionsystem_1990_2_9.JPG

But not in anything before then.

So, somebody clear this up, will the very early (83-88) 2.0, 2.3 and 2.9 engines get spark without the EEC relay being energized?

I think prior to 89 will have spark even if the EEC relay were removed from its socket.
http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=3 <That table seems to say that spark is TFI controlled, no mention of the PCM role. In his 88, the ECA/ICM/Distributor make spark.
I don't see any spark function for the PCM from 83-88.

School me.
 
^^ Yes, you are correct looks like the coil(TFI) and even EDIS modules were powered on with the key on the early Rangers, not via the EEC Relay as on later models.
The '90 still has direct power to the coil(EDIS or TFI) from key on, EEC relay is just powered on at the same time.
So these earlier years would have spark even with EEC relay removed.

So he would have spark but not fuel if EEC relay was not grounded, so that may have been what he grounded, and not the fuel pump relay, hopefully.
 
Last edited:
88 ford ranger fuel pump relay image.
I hope that works,that's a picture of the relay that clicks and makes the fuel pump run for about 3seconds .
 
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{\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;\red34\green34\blue34;}
\deftab720
\pard\pardeftab720\sl380\partightenfactor0

\f0\fs32 \cf2 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0
\outl0\strokewidth0 \strokec2 \
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Sorry guys. I typed a more detailed,ok very detailed description of what happened exactly.then went off to find a link to a picture which I did easily.
Then when I reopened this page wich I only minimized my whole text was gone and my link didn't work..smart ain't i.
But the black wire is defo the ground to that relay now the trucks running nicely if I hack the black wire off the ground terminal the truck stops instantly
 
Green relay is Fuel Pump, Brown relay is EEC, Black relay is WOT

This thread has pictures of the relays and wires on '86:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111268


If power, or ground, to the fuel pump relay is cut, the engine would not die instantly, it would start to stumble as the fuel pressure dropped but that would take awhile at idle.
Fuel pump only running for 3 seconds after key is turned on is good, thats what's suppose to happen, it means the computer is controlling that relay.

If power, or ground to EEC relay is cut, then fuel injectors are turned off, this would cause the engine to die instantly.
 

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