Sticky Clutch Pedal Fix

[backporch]

Anyone know the cause of a sticky clutch pedal? The symptoms are that it depresses fine, but feels like it gets held up momentarily at its lowest point by a mat or something and sticks just a little before going back upward. Its not bad and very drivable, just a little annoying. Annoying enough that I am going to see what I can clean, lube or needs replacement.

I tried to duplicate this by pressing on the pedal with my hand and I only noticed this happening when I depressed the pedal and pulled toward the door before letting it travel back up. Maybe I am also rotating the pedal a little with my foot??

 

[RonD]

Check the pivot bushing up at the top of the pedal arm

Diagram here: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/1u4n9-replace-pedal-assembly-97-ford-ranger.html

Also check Master cylinder attachment at firewall, see if its shifting position when someone pushes pedal down all the way

 

[adsm08]

Check the pivot bushing up at the top of the pedal arm

Diagram here: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/1u4n9-replace-pedal-assembly-97-ford-ranger.html

Also check Master cylinder attachment at firewall, see if its shifting position when some pushes pedal down all the way

My thoughts as well. My last neighbor used to flip cars and he had a Ranger where the pedal would not come up at all, and pushing it down would turn the brake lights on. It had him stumped so he asked me to look, and what I found was the bushing was about gone and the clutch arm shaft was all but rotted fast to the inside of the brake pedal. A little penetrating oil and working it around a good bit and we got it working well enough to go down the road. He sold it to his cousin who lives here in town, and I never saw it back here, but do see it around town some times still, so it must still be working.

 

[Curious Hound]

On my truck, the arm behind the pedal had worn through the semi-hard plastic and insulation on the firewall. So, in cold wether, when I pushed the pedal down, sometimes it would hang up on the broken plastic (vinyl?) At the firewall. I took a utility knife and cut a bigger hole so it can't get stuck there.

 

[backporch]

Thanks. Going to look into all those suggestions this weekend. looks like I need 4 of the 2471 bushings to get everything closer to normal?

 

[backporch]

Just took a look at the pedal assembly and it is definitely bad bushings on the brake/clutch rod. From the picture it is hard to see what is needed. Assuming the rod and bracket are OK, does anyone know what parts I would need. Looks like 4 of the same plastic bushing from the picture. Not sure where to source those. Everyone was selling the busing for the clutch linkage rod, but that 's not my problem

 

[backporch]

Napa and the ford dealer both don’t sell that part. Does anyone know a source? Thanks

 

[RonD]

Yes, I looked as well, and didn't see any for 1995-2011 clutch/brake assembly
1994 and earlier are listed
1995 and up is a different assembly

 

[backporch]

Ford sells the assembly for a little over $200. No bushings. I found a reseller iof used assemblies and he uses bushings from old assemblies. Crazy that ford won’t manufacture these. I wonder if brass bushings can be made. It would be cool to just swap ot the clutch side bushing in place was f possible and not fight the whole assembly out

 

[backporch]

I am going to pull the assembly and see if I can't do something with it. If I have success I will post pictures.

 

[backporch]

Stuck on trying to get the assembly out. How in the world does is the clutch master cylinder and its pushrod removed.

Saw these online, but i really need more detail...
--Disconnect the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal.
--Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch from the clutch master cylinder push rod.
--Remove the retainer from the clutch pedal shaft.

I don't want to break anything. Thanks.

 

[Curious Hound]

A couple weeks ago, somebody posted that if you remove the inner fender, that gives you a space to twist and wiggle it out somehow. I removed the retaining ring and pulled the rod out of mine. But that's kinda messy even if you're careful. I wasn't worried about putting mine back together because I had a whole new assembly.

 

[backporch]

so a twist to the entire master cylinder from outside the firewall? Still not sure how to remove the pushrod from the mastercylinder.

 

[Curious Hound]

That method is to pull the whole thing out without removing the rod from the master cylinder. If you remove the rod from the master cylinder, you will risk spilling fluid out and making a mess while getting the master cylinder out of the firewall.

The rod is attached to the Piston in the M.C. by some little barbs that are difficult to access. If you remove the internal retaining ring, then the Piston and rod come out together. Then you have the open cylinder with clutch fluid in it that wants to spill out.

 

[backporch]

I was looking at a picture online. There is a electrical component called a switch assembly that looks like it can be removed from the shaft.
I also found a video online about bleeding the clutch and I see the whole assembly pulled out from the firewall... no need to mess with trying to separate the pushrod. I think I get it now. Thanks