Sterling 10.25

[95XL]

Hey, I'm looking into swapping a full float Sterling 10.25 into my Ranger, and just had a couple of questions about it. The only thing I'm really concerned about is the master cylinder for the brakes. The Sterling has some huge drums compared to the 7.5" or 8.8". Is my stock master cylinder going to make enough pressure to move the wheel cylinders in those brakes? Also, I have to double check, but I believe my truck has 4-wheel ABS, do I have to find an axle out of a truck that has the ABS plug? And if I do, do I have to splice the plug that comes on the axle onto my wiring harness? Or can I just leave them unplugged? Thats pretty much it.

Oh, and the driveshaft, I'm pretty positive the F-250's didn't use the same driveshafts as Rangers lol. How much would you guys say it should cost to have a custom shaft made with the Ranger yolk on the front, and the F-250 flange on the rear of it?

 

[projectnitemare]

The sterling is a good axle, you aren't going to break it. As for the brakes, I think you would be fine with the stock master. Good chance you will need to find an axle with a speed sensor. Most likely your Ranger plug will work, just incase get the one from the truck. Just cut the original off and splice on the other one. As for the driveshaft you will need a custom one. If you have a decent driveline shop in the area a good fab guy will be able to just switch the yokes if you take the driveshaft from the other truck. I'd say under $100 for something like that, I new shaft will run probably $250 or so. I make my own shafts so whatever supplies cost. Just be aware that if you need to regear if you find a pre-89 axle you will need a new yoke for the new pinion.

Matt

 

[Evan]

Why are you swapping that axle into a 2.3L Ranger? It's only worth the time and money if you're running 50" or larger tires. I'd look into a 31-spline 8.8 or 9". Those will not only be lighter and more nimble, but will cost less time and money to swap in and support at least 40" tires.

 

[metalmacguyver]

So if you are going full width in back, what are you putting up front?

 

[95XL]

Why are you swapping that axle into a 2.3L Ranger?

I'm doing a dual wheel conversion, and I really wanted to use a full floater, so no matter how much weight I put in the bed, I wouldn't have to worry about breaking an axle shaft. And I would have to weld up the spring perches and shock mounts anyways, so I might as well do it right the first time.

So if you are going full width in back, what are you putting up front?

I'm sticking with the Dana 35. I'm putting dually rims on the front as well, and my adaptors are about 4.3" thick to account for the backspacing, so the front rims will be on the same centerline as the stockers. I found the measurement for the Sterling from WMS TO WMS, and it's 1.25" narrower than a stock ranger axle with the same adaptors as the front, so the inner rear wheels will only be 5/8" narrower than the fronts.

Just be aware that if you need to regear if you find a pre-89 axle you will need a new yoke for the new pinion.

I'm hoping I can find one with 4.10's and a limited slip, that way I don't have to F with anything inside the diff.

You follow?

 

[organic]

I'd like to see some pics of the truck after its all done. Should be pretty cool looking!

 

[Loanranger]

Just wondering if you realize that anything heavy you put in the bed in front of the rear axle is going to put more weight on the front axle too? What size tires are you planning to run on this?

 

[95XL]

Just wondering if you realize that anything heavy you put in the bed in front of the rear axle is going to put more weight on the front axle too? What size tires are you planning to run on this?

Yeah, I've thought of that, thats why the centerline of the rim is going to be in the same spot on the front, so it doesn't mess with the bearings.

I'm running 235/70 r16 General Grabber AT2's

 

[Woods-Rider]

What do you haul/tow that you would need a 10.25 but still be able to move with a 2.3L?

 

[Woods-Rider]

What do you haul/tow that you need a 10.25 for but will still be able to pull with a 2.3L?

 

[KELLY88]

While I don't doubt that dually tires front a rear would look pretty cool I can't help but agree with the others and wonder why you need a Sterling 10.25, what exactly do you plan on towing or hauling? Plus the extra weight of the axle and tires would put a lot more stress on your transmission/tranfer case, even without a load. I agree you probably wouldn't have to worry about breaking an axle shaft with that setup but you're likely to destroy something else in the drivetrain.

 

[alaskan155]

instead of spacers in front, here is an idea.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/44knuckleswap.htm

do that, but attach the 3/4 ton parts to the d44 1/2 ton knuckle, 8-lug conversion for dana 35, then if you haven''t got a axle yet, try looking at the 14b full floater out of the chevies(73-91), get the Dually version from there, it be a better match, (since a SRW axle with Dually hubs from a chevy is the same width as a ranger) it be a perfect match, the dually axle should put the tire in the right place.

all u loose is ABS

 

[95XL]

What do you haul/tow that you need a 10.25 for but will still be able to pull with a 2.3L?

The need for the 10.25 is not out of what I haul/tow. The need for the 10.25 comes from the fact that I need a full float axle with the 8 on 6.5" lug pattern. The 10.25 meets both those criteria, and it's still a Ford part (Not that that has anything to do with it, but I like to stick with Ford when I can).

Plus the extra weight of the axle and tires would put a lot more stress on your transmission/tranfer case, even without a load. I agree you probably wouldn't have to worry about breaking an axle shaft with that setup but you're likely to destroy something else in the drivetrain.

I agree that the Sterling is a heavier axle than stock, but how much heavier could it be?!? Best bet is probably 100lbs at the most, I can haul 100lbs around all day long and not have any more load on my drivetrain than normal. The extra set of tires, granted, are going to weigh a lot more, but once they get rolling they shouldn't be too bad. I don't think it should be any worse than running 31's with 3.73's (I've got 4.10's currently).

Alaskan155 - I like the idea, but the whole point of doing this conversion is so I have a senior project for college. I've already decided not to use two of the adaptors I've made by switching to the 10.25. If I did the knuckle swap, then I wouldn't be able to use either set. I feel that the D44 swap would be stronger in the long run, unfortunately I have already spent enough $$ on my adaptors that I'm pretty much forced to use them now. Also, could you elaborate a bit on the width of the 14 bolt? I couldn't really follow what you said. The way I understand what you said is the 14b with dually hubs puts makes the width about the same as a stock ranger axle? If I did that the inner wheels would be about 4 inches narrower than the front.

 

[Todd]

I agree that the Sterling is a heavier axle than stock, but how much heavier could it be?!? Best bet is probably 100lbs at the most, I can haul 100lbs around all day long and not have any more load on my drivetrain than normal.

Try about twice the weight of an 8.8

 

[alaskan155]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html here check this link out, basically there are 2 axle housing, and 2 different hubs, 1 combination gets u the same width basically as a ranger, which is a single rear wheel axle, with dually hubs, which is a 63.5" wms-wms(about stock ranger), a regualr SRW axle is is 67.5" wms-wms, that give you 2 inches on each side over the ranger , then a dually axle is 72" stock, so that about 8", 4 " on each side, pretty much matches your front spacer, so as you can see there are a alot of width to choice from, atleast 2 per axle housing, then avalibility, not sure on the sterling avaliblilty but the 14b FF started in 73 and ended in 2000, so plenty of parts and aftermarket supports