Stealth Ranger Build

[djkommando]

just wondering if i should try to see if the hedman headers will work better. my main problem is clearance for the steering shaft, and i think its going to be real tight to get the starter in. anyone know if they clear the steering and the sparkplugs (pictures look like there will be problems w/ #5 plug), before i wreck these ones to make em work? also another thing, i got the whole front end put back on and the radiator and fan in and i noticed that the filler neck is quite high. im hoping i can make room for it by cutting the hood a bit. if not im out $125 and i gotta find a new radiator cuz i cut this one up a bit already to make it fit.

 

[bcost882]

thats pretty cool you can do the lights too with the tint spray. no worries

 

[djkommando]

yeah i have the clear front and i actually found clear for the side markers too.

 

[djkommando]

well i decided today that im going to try to get the motor to sit lower and further back. it seems the be tilted back a bit yet and theres lots of oil pan clearance. so i figure if i can get it lower and more level i can pull it back til something stops me so i have a little more space between the pullies and radiator. i guess the good thing is im gettin good at taking the front end on and off and motor and trans in and out. so hopefully after i make some adjustments i can get the headers to clear the steering a little better. if that works out i can beat some small grooves in em, wrap em, and i got the socks for the 2 plug wires i gotta clearance for and i should be good on heat. hopefully this works out cuz i need something to go the right way, im sick of the problems. but the problems end up making me better at what i do in the long run. i just gotta get this done cuz my other truck needs to be fixed.


just saw these headers, anyone know if theyre any good?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADD-717044/

 

[baddad457]

I don't see any problems there with your steering clearance. Those fit the steering about the same as the Hedmans and the Tri-y's. Your real problems are going to be the starter removal and the clearance to the axles. And that radiator filler neck. Looks like a turkey neck stickin up that high. What radiator is that ?

 

[fordmike1]

I used a lower steering coupler from a Areostar van and a upper coupler from a 93 Explorer to make a steering shaft for my conversion. You will need to graft these things together to make them work but its easy and when you are done it will look factory. I will try and get a couple of pics for you if I can fix my camera. Doing this steering conversion gets rid of the steering rag joint at the gear box and gives you a smaller U-joint there instead giving you more clearence for your headers.

 

[djkommando]

well i just went into o'reilly and got the book and started looking for dimensions that looked like it would work and i got that one. i just looked it up now and its for a 90-97 aerostar w/ 4.0.

 

[djkommando]

pulled everything apart today made the slots for the motor mounts studs a little bigger and put the motor and trans back in. the left side head is about 1/4 in from the firewall and the motor mount stud on the right side is back as far as it can go. i also got it to sit down as low as it can, but this time im gonna wait to put the front end back together so i can get at everything easier. i think the next thing is going to be to start on the wiring. i got a good idea of where i gotta go w/ it, so hopefully its not too painful.

 

[djkommando]

quick update, got to some wiring today and got the "plug in" stuff done and the computer in the stock location. this cold is slowin me down.

 

[djkommando]

just got the driveshaft together and put in. i used the stock driveshaft w/ the slip yoke for a mustang, and a conversion u joint. length wise its real close to not fitting, i had about a quarter of an inch from being too long. my springs being kinda beat and all the parts i took off are in the bed, so that doesnt help. anyone else run into this problem and solve it another way than getting the driveshaft shortened. or should it be fine the way it is?

 

[MountainMike]

i got the whole front end put back on and the radiator and fan in and i noticed that the filler neck is quite high. im hoping i can make room for it by cutting the hood a bit. if not im out $125 and i gotta find a new radiator cuz i cut this one up a bit already to make it fit.

You know what you should do...

Save some money and if it doesn't fit under the hood. Cut it out and put a gas filler door on you hood. If you do it alright it will confuse the heck out of people and add convenience

 

[djkommando]

hahaha, thats a little too much work

 

[zukirider21]

hey man i just wanted to say thanks for keepin up with the pics on this thread! it's real useful and im pretty much at the same stage as you right now... im tryin to figure out if a "2 core" "heavy duty cooling package" rad from a ranger or b2 will fit. and isnt that the same as a regular non-hd 4.0 rad? will it be sufficient?

sorry for the thread jacking haha good luck with your build...

 

[djkommando]

i know they make a heavy duty version. its the same size just 2 core.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...rd&model=Ranger&vi=1137709&pt=01386&ppt=C0331

 

[djkommando]

well i just got the ford racing P headers and tried them and the #5 tube hits the steering shaft part of the steering box. i looked up the MAC headers but can find any pictures. i know this a a very common topic, but i cant seem to find answers to all the questions. anyone know if the mac headers clear the steering or have pictures, or know any other headers that fit that are still made and dont cost $500. maybe BBK?