Starts but no idle help

[RonD]

So the 2 wire one would be the sending unit then?

The 2 wire ECT SENSOR is for the computer only.

The 1 wire sender is for the dash board gauge, << this one is easy to test:
Find it..............unplug the 1 wire from the sender, turn on the key
Gauge should show below COLD
Now Ground that 1 wire to the engine or Negative on Battery, use a short wire if needed.
Gauge should then move to above HOT

If these movements happen then wire and gauge are working, sender is bad.


It would be better if you posted the actual code numbers, not what you think they mean or what a website thinks they mean, you are probably 100% correct on the meaning but.................trouble codes can often bite you in the butt if you take them at face value, lol

 

[jonwalden68]

Ok I'll have to go get codes again I just know that I had a ranger befor that guy straight piped and pulled all o2 sensors and ran good so that's why I wasn't thinking that would cause it to stall just on start up. And I did find out my gauge cluster was was messed up it was replaced today and gotta check the temp sensors I just figured I'd have a code for the temp but egr and o2 were only ones I'll get exact codes asap

 

[jonwalden68]

I just don't think the oxygen sensors would cause that but maybe I'm mistaken or egr cause that? I just figured if iac I have codes or it wouldn't idle anytime

 

[jonwalden68]

P0135 and p0141

 

[tmcalavy]

Technically it's not supposed to idle if the IAC is bad, but like the one who visits formal events in jeans said, it's just a plunger that helps control air flow. Hope it is your temp sender, those are easy to change...just be sure you hit it with penetrating oil and let it sit/soak before you attempt removal. If it's stock it's probably in there pretty tight. When you go to loosen it go slowly and rock it back and forth...like you're removing a thermostat housing bolt. When things break off it gets expensive to have them removed.

 

[jonwalden68]

I hope it is too

 

[RonD]

P0135 is the code for the heater circuit problem for the "upstream" O2 sensor.
O2 sensors won't work until they get above 600degF, the exhaust warms them up pretty fast but adding an internal heater helps them along on cold mornings.


p0141 is the code for the heater circuit problem for the "downstream" O2 sensor.

Upstream = by exhaust manifold
Downstream = after Cat Converter

The heaters on these gets its power from the battery through a Fuse, the Computer grounds them when on so can monitor the voltage they are using.
My guess is that the fuse is blown, so they are not getting the 12volts.

No, these codes would not cause your issues with stalling, and O2 sensors are not used at idle, computer runs engine rich using default air/fuel mix


Running without O2 sensors is foolish
A computer has two modes of operation, Open Loop and Closed Loop
Open loop is used for cold starts, engine runs rich air/fuel mix based on pre-programmed information, along with MAF sensor and TPS data.

Closed loop is when you get the best MPG because computer is using feedback from O2 sensors to set air/fuel mix.

If you unhook the O2 sensors computer will just run Open Loop all the time, MPG goes into the toilet, but because it is running rich you will have more power, and carbon build up on the plugs, lol

 

[jonwalden68]

I'm gonna fix the o2 problem once I get the stalling fixed so would you think it's the iac tps or coolant sensor

 

[jonwalden68]

Well I got the new cluster in and the temp gauge works great but still stalls

 

[tmcalavy]

I believe the sensor that feeds/works the gauge is not the one the computer uses to set and keep the idle speed. I think the one that tells the computer the engine/coolant temp to make it run right is the ECT sensor.