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Starting Problem


Have same issue, will follow this thread. I'm using that key on and off trick a couple times before starting for now and that works but would like to find out if it is my fuel pump. Must drop the fuel tank to get at that pump. SUCKS big time. My home boy tells me it is the pump because he had this issue a few times with his auto restoration job. I'm getting tired of working on this truck, one thing after the next lately.
 
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BMW used to sell them for the 7 series. Big help . Cheap and dirty clue. PSI is PSI, be it air, water or gas. I test my BMWs with a 10$ rig made of an air pressure gauge, couplings and 5/16 hose barbs. For a check valve look for 80s vacuum stuff or the one from a brake booster. . You will need to open lines to use this, so you will need a few odd bits of hose and in line fittings.

You guys and your old Ford Trucks. I'm happy the Rat runs. If I had to prime the system with the key , well, stuff like this is "character", which is mostly lacking in fuel injection and electronic ignitions. Kinda like an old fighter plane. :D
 
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Are the injectors leaking?

So.....all of a sudden the ranger is starting right away like it used to, just a few cranks and starts right up, even in the morning?? The only thing different is I added some antifreeze which was low when I opened the rad cap, but still had a high level in the overflow. Maybe I need a new rad cap. But the fuel pressure gauge still shows the same as before, not holding pressure.
I did what was suggested in reading other posts to tell if fuel injectors are leaking. First I let the truck run, turned it off, and then started it again and started right up. Then I turned the key on, put the pedal to the floor and turned it over for a long time but wouldn't start. Turned key of. Then started engine and started right away. Now I turned just the key on 8 times to build up the pressure. Kept the pedal to the floor and turned it over and it started right away. I did this three times just to make sure. So according to what I read the injectors must be leaking when I turn the key on and that is why it started. Sounds reasonable. But...... I tried something a little different. I turned the key on and this time used a jumper at the test block to ground the fuel pump and make it run. I did this 8 times building the pressure to 40 and shutting it off and watching ther pressure drop immediately. Shut the key off then turned key on again. Put the pedal to the floor and cranked the engine for a long time and it would not start. I tried this three times and still it would not start. So I am confused.
Is there something happening differently when I am just using the key on to build up pressure that activates the fuel injectors and when I just build up the pressure jumping the pump that doesn't activate the injectors. Is there something wrong electrically here or is this normal??
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Holding the pedal to the floor stops the injectors from feeding fuel. It's called "clear flood".
 
confused about "clear flood" test

Holding the pedal to the floor stops the injectors from feeding fuel. It's called "clear flood".

I understand the "clear flood". I don't know if you read my post history but I am trying to isolate where the pressure loss in the fuel system is. Got it down to either the check valve in pump or injectors and I tried the "clear flood" to see if it is injectors. When I run the test with first building pressure by turning key on and off the engine starts which seems to be injector leak.
When I run the test with first building pressure by turning key on and jumping pump on and off at test block to build up pressure it will not start.
So which test results do I use????
 

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