Starting issues. 92 Ranger 3.0 V6

[top4874]

I have a 92 Ranger that is having starting/running issues.

Truck ran fine until the weather started to warm up. When I would drive it for any extended it would randomly die. Would start right back up, but eventually got to where it wouldn't start. Had it towed a few times and as soon as it came off the rollback it would start right up every time.

A friend told me to check the purge valve on the fuel rail and see if gas was making it to the injectors. I got an Allen key and pressed it. Nothing but air came out.(after one of the times it stalled on me.) It started right up after doing that and drove fine for about a week before it happened again. Same situation, same fix... So, I was told to replace the canister purge valve. Did that and ran fine for a week. Same result, but this time bleeding the fuel rail didn't work. Had it towed home.

As soon as it comes off the rollback, it starts right up. Rollback driver said he has had several do that when the fuel pump goes bad. So last night I replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relay. Started fine and ran fine until about a hour ago. This time it was driven for about 20 minutes and parked for about 3 hours. Wouldn't start. Was told that if it wasn't the fuel pump that the ignition coil had to be bad, so I replaced it. Still wouldn't start.

So I got the bright idea to rock the truck back and forth to see if I could "trick" the truck into thinking that it was just put on a rollback. (silly I know) Started on the first try. Drove it home and now don't know what to do.

I can't afford to replace everything that "might" be wrong with it. I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Canister Purge valve/solenoid, Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump relay, and the ignition coil.

I would greatly appreciate some pro knowledge because the "knowledgeable" guys at the auto parts store are breaking me.

 

[adsm08]

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, since jostling the truck seems to help. Get it running and hop under, start banging and wiggling stuff, see if you can make it die.

 

[top4874]

Had someone suggest fuel pressure regulator.

I didn't add to my post that today when it wouldn't start I pushed the valve on the fuel rail and nothing came out. No air like before. No gas either. It acts like gas isn't making it to the fuel rail.

I did start it and got under it. Jiggled and banged everything I felt safe with. never missed a beat.

 

[adsm08]

It has to be electrical. The regulator is AFTER the injectors in the flow path of the fuel, otherwise it is a restriction, not a regulator.

Start checking loose and corroded connections, check power to the pump when it won't start.

 

[Andy D]

inertia switch open?

 

[adsm08]

It could be a problem in the switch.

 

[top4874]

inertia switch open?

Is that the one inside the cab, passengers side on the firewall?

If so, I checked it to see if the button needed to be reset. It was not tripped (popped up). I know that doesn't mean it isn't bad. Is there a way to test it?

 

[Andy D]

Jump it out with a jumper cable. I haven't had to mess with it yet, so I can't get specific.

 

[RonD]

Something easy to do would be to put a 12v test light on the inertia switch and leave it there.
At the inertia switch:
The green /yellow wire is the incoming 12v from the fuel pump relay
The pink/black wire is the 12v going to the fuel pump, << this is where I would put the test light, so you can see it while driving.

I would then drive the truck and see if power to the pump is being cut off.

Also look around the area of the inertia switch, I think the fuel pomp ground is near there, just check any ground points to make sure they are clean and tight, losing ground is the same as losing 12v.

The ranger computer(PCM) controls the power to the pump via the fuel pump relay, the PCM turns on the pump for 1-2 seconds when key is first turned on, then turns it on based on rpm and throttle position, so test light will go off and on, that is normal.

If test light stays off while driving and engine dies, then cycle the key off and on, if no light then move test light to the fuel relay side of the inertia switch and cycle key again, if no light then fuel pump relay wiring or PCM is the issue.
If light comes on when test the fuel pump relay wire then inertia switch is the issue

There is also a connector under the truck, it can get corrosion inside and effect the fuel pump or fuel gauge, so locate and pull it apart to check it.

The fuel filter is under there as well, under drivers side, they are $10, and I would replace it if you haven't already, it can cause your exact issues, if it is getting clogged up.


Air in the fuel rail is odd and not normal, have you noticed a gas smell or poor MPG?
This system runs at 30psi, so when you checked the pressure, gas/air should have come out at a high rate, same as a tire with 30psi.
The fuel pressure regulator(FPR) on the rail is what controls this pressure.
The FPR will have a vacuum line connected to it, remove this line and check it for gas smell, FPR diaphragm can leak and you will smell gas in that vacuum line.

As for a spark issue, I would carry a can of starting fluid(ether), next time it dies try to restart, if it doesn't, pull off the air intake tube and spray some in the intake and try to start, if it fires up and dies then fuel is the problem, if it doesn't fire then spark is the problem.

 

[top4874]

Sorry, forgot to post that the problem was the inertia switch. I replaced it and everything was fine until last friday. My daughter drove to a friends house and stayed overnight. Truck wouldn't start the next morning. Had it towed home and monkeyed around and found that 2 of the plug wires had come off the distributor. Popped them back on and it was fine. Strange thisg though. I removed the connection to the MAF sensor and it didn't effect the way it ran. Did the same with the TPS and still no change to the way it idled or ran. Plugged everything back in and it ran ok for half a day.

My daughter drove it to work and she said it started to stutter and bog under throttle. Idle was rough so she cut it off. Now it wont start. Left it at her work overnight and went to get it the next day. I got in it and tried to start it. It hit like it was trying to start then just continues to turn over and wont start.

She works at Oreilly Auto Parts so they got out the OBD1 code puller and got the codes out of it:
DCT 122
DCT 539
DCT 157
DCT 158

I removed and cleaned the MAF but it still wont start. It is still in the parking lot of Oreilly's and they are suppose to put the code puller on it to see if there are any different codes in it. No one there seems to have any ideas. There was a guy that asked me what was going on as he was walking out. I gave him the run down and he mentioned "that module there". It is on the drivers side of the radiator near the top half. I have no idea what it is.

I'm at a point that I really don't know what to do anymore. Any Ideas?

 

[greaseandmetal]

The module he was probably pointing at was the ignition control module. Perhaps, check the picture of one at oreillys to see if it looks the same as what he pointed at.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Thats the icm. It's only got one 4mm? Bolt holding it on. You can open it up and see if there's been water or a short in it. There's a jelly or something in there that is nice and clear, you'll see a burn or something most likely. Although it's possible there's a loose connection or other fault in it. The pigtail it connects to is a pita to get off though.

 

[top4874]

Sorry for the long delay in updates. Had issues with my back and had to get that fixed(ish).

Ok, same issue with the truck but I think that I have narrowed it down a bit.

Had it towed to a shop to just have them fix it. They said it was one of the sensors. I test drove it and it was beautiful. Smooth acceleration, great pickup, and nice smooth idle. I didn't have a way to get it home so one of the tech said he would drive it to the house for me if I gave him a ride back. We get just over 1/2 way to the house (approx. 4mi) and it dies again. Same issue. No gas making it to the fuel rail.

We sat there for about an hour trying to get it to start, but no luck. I disconnected the fuel line from the back of the fuel filter and turn the key to make sure the pump is priming. Nothing. Relay is clicking, but no gas was coming out. Called AAA and had it towed back to the shop.

When the AAA guy is rolling it off the rollback he turned the key over and gas starts going everywhere. I forgot to put the fuel line back on the filter.

So I think it is a short/loose connection since it was doing this before the fuel pump was changed when this issue started. The shop just called me and said that I need a new fuel pump. They can't find a short or loose connection and are taking a shot in the dark that it is the pump. I told them not to put a new pump on because the one that is in there has less than 3 hrs of run time on it and I don't think it is the pump.

What are the odds of 2 pumps having the exact same issue with one being OEM (from 1992) and the other being brand new? Both issues are (temp)resolved by a bumpy ride on a rollback. I think there is a bad wire somewhere.

Ideas?