Starter Solenoid?

[Daedalus]

My starter has been a never ending nightmare. First I replaced the starter because it was seizing up and i had to smack it with my maglight to get it to turn over. Then the ground wire went a week or two later and left me stranded on the side of a highway 50 miles from home. Now it's not starting AGAIN, but this time the click when i turn the key is coming from the solenoid on the fender by the battery. This means I need to replace the solenoid on the fender right? Battery checks out ok...

 

[spdcrazy]

My starter has been a never ending nightmare. First I replaced the starter because it was seizing up and i had to smack it with my maglight to get it to turn over. Then the ground wire went a week or two later and left me stranded on the side of a highway 50 miles from home. Now it's not starting AGAIN, but this time the click when i turn the key is coming from the solenoid on the fender by the battery. This means I need to replace the solenoid on the fender right? Battery checks out ok...

maybe. but you can jump the soleniod by using a PLASTIC handled screwdriver. and connecting the positive terminal with the little red stud if i recall it correctly.

make sure the truck is in neutral with the ebrake on.

 

[bcost882]

if it is a auto it might not be all the way in park, my wifes did that, put it on the tow truck bounced a bit and then started right up. so hold it in park, and if not you can short it to the starter.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

+1 on the P or N. The cable that shifts the indicator on the dash is seperate from the cable that actually shifts the trans. It my look in P or N but still be caught on a gear. Thanks neutral safety switch!

The soli is so cheap ya might as well just replace it. Is the battery good? Voltage regulator? How are your connections? Check out your all your grounds.

 

[Daedalus]

It's a 5 speed. Battery is good and terminals are clean. Going out now to investigate the grounds....

 

[Daedalus]

Alright all the grounds are in good shape. I checked the solenoid with a multimeter and one of the posts reads a constant sta12.6 when connected to the positive battery terminal as it should. When I connect the other post that goes down to the starter it reads zero when turning the key to start when i think it should jump up to 12.6 with the key turned. So the solenoid is bad right?

 

[modelageek]

Alright all the grounds are in good shape. I checked the solenoid with a multimeter and one of the posts reads a constant sta12.6 when connected to the positive battery terminal as it should. When I connect the other post that goes down to the starter it reads zero when turning the key to start when i think it should jump up to 12.6 with the key turned. So the solenoid is bad right?

either the fender relay is bad and not closing or the "starter control circuit". is not working. Do you have power at the other/smaller terminals on the fender relay when the key is in start position( dont forget you need to have the clutch pressed in when testing for voltage)... if you don't something in the SCC is acting up. ie ignition switch, clutch pedal positioning switch. antitheft if you have it.

when it was not starting did you try to pop start it?

 

[modelageek]

in the event you dont have a haynes manual you can get a NEW one delivered to you for $6 or a used one for $4. go to amazon.com. I have bought used manuals from them for $4 delivered. they were in perfect shape.

 

[Daedalus]

either the fender relay is bad and not closing or the "starter control circuit". is not working. Do you have power at the other/smaller terminals on the fender relay when the key is in start position( dont forget you need to have the clutch pressed in when testing for voltage)... if you don't something in the SCC is acting up. ie ignition switch, clutch pedal positioning switch. antitheft if you have it.

when it was not starting did you try to pop start it?

By pop start it do you mean giving it a push and dumping the clutch to start the engine? If so then yes, and it works fine.

I went over and picked up the solenoid and while putting it in managed to crack it when i was tightening the bolts down. So I went back to advanced to exchange which the guy was surprisingly cool with but he was out of stock so i had to go to another store to find one. Haven't put it in yet, too damn hot out. Im gona wait till it cools off a bit in the evening...

 

[modelageek]

By pop start it do you mean giving it a push and dumping the clutch to start the engine? If so then yes, and it works fine.

I went over and picked up the solenoid and while putting it in managed to crack it when i was tightening the bolts down. So I went back to advanced to exchange which the guy was surprisingly cool with but he was out of stock so i had to go to another store to find one. Haven't put it in yet, too damn hot out. Im gona wait till it cools off a bit in the evening...

if you install the relay and it works.great...if it does not work i would suspect the clutch swithc etc.

 

[Daedalus]

Well now that I've concluded my cursing everything-under-the-sun-fest, parts in and it still wont start.

You mentioned the clutch switch. If i turn the key to start without the clutch pushed in it just does nothing, no clicks or anything. But with the clutch pushed in the solenoid does its click. I assume this means the clutch switch is okay? There is no anti-theft system on the truck. So I suppose this means ignition switch based on what you said. No one else is home right now so i cant check the voltage at the small post on the solenoid till someone comes home. I'm so pissed right now. ****!

 

[modelageek]

I have read more than 1 thread with the same issue you have and it was the Clutch positiong switch. You could use the MM and start testing

 

[Daedalus]

OK, where is the switch and how do i test it with my MM?

 

[modelageek]

The switch is attached to the top of the clutch pedal. You will need a haynes manual/wiring diagram. You could spray it with electrical cleaner and see if that helps

 

[Daedalus]

And to top it all off I got my new gauge cluster with a tach in the mail today and everything is working fine except the speedo which is reading anywhere from 10-40mph higher than I'm actually going. It's from an 89 BII so it should be a direct swap. What else could possibly go wrong today!?