Staring at my Ranger

[Josh B]

I thought I'd look at some parts today and somehow wound up at AZ looking at rear diff's, they use zumbrata(which I will NEVER use again) rebuilt rears are $1800 (PLUS exchange Plus shipping)

 

[AutoRnD]

Your wheels are actually in pretty good condition. I don't see a lot of the "aluminum rot" that these wheels tend to get.

I honestly think it would be a good idea, on your part, to keep these wheels nice, or do a good restoration on them if it's needed.

They do look nice on your truck, and if you change wheels later you can always sell a nice set of OEM wheels and then put that money back into the truck. Good original parts for these trucks just keep getting scarcer.

Will do! I have a lot of respect for original models. I've always liked automobiles but never took any action on it. My favorites were always the classics being restored to their true glory. I love how automobiles aren't just a mean of transportation, they are literal history and with that being said it's a little disappointing that people just let'em rot. I guess a goal of mine is to learn restoration techniques and if I can do a little of my own taste, why not? Any original parts replaced will be restored(if possible), kept and put away for safe keeping. I believe in keeping what exists around and in good condition. If people had more respect for things we wouldn't have lost so much.

I actually was attempting to find some 15" deer hoof wheels but stumbled on what I got for $80 for the 4 with center caps and lug nuts... it took me several hours to strip then wet sand them to make them look decent (followed by a can of wheel clearcoat).

The problem with 14" wheels is the size you have is as tall as is available, they're relabeled 27" by something or other in some forms like all terrain or winter tires... the sizes available open up a lot in 15" which is why I went with that...

Correcting for the speedo difference tire size didn't make much of a change on mileage at all, with more aggressive winter or AT tires my '97 got 21-22mpg from 27-29" tall (225 70 14 through 235 75 15), once I switched to P tires it migrated to 23-25mpg consistently... I get bored so check most tanks of fuel, in the 60k miles the lowest I've seen is 19mpg towing and screwing around and highest around 25.5... mileage falls if you shift over 4k consistently, increases if you stop at 4k for hard acceleration and normal 3k... best cruising below 3k... a 3L will be similar but with an auto you have less choices...

If you mess with tire sizes too much look into what rear differential gearing you have as taller tires will make it more painful to drive (slow), lower gears (bigger numerical) will make it better, mine already has the lowest factory ratio of 4.10:1 so it's more forgiving than say my '90 was with 3.08 gears... For driveability doing a rear axle swap to change ratios is a good starter project, it's like 10-12 bolts, a brake line and parking brake cable... that was pretty much my first modification on the '90, factory ratio 3.08, got a $15 axle with 3.73's (back in the fordranger.com days, like '02), did a frame swap to 4x4 and got 4.10's then lifted and axle swapped to 5.13's...

It was mentioned to me on this site that I could swap the differential to a higher ratio. I haven't looked much into it just yet, was mostly shopping for fluids, lights and a service manual. I'm not sure what to take a shot at first aside from getting on top of basic maintenance. I mean my first big modification or at least what constitutes a big modification for me. Honestly all the automatic transmission information is depressing, it has to go. I can't even anymore.

The main modifications I'm interested in are:

-Some sort of engine swap
-Manual transmission conversion
-Differential swap(if necessary)
-Dual exhaust
-Body work
-Mustang wheels
-Lower suspension
-Get that mean sound
-Change brakes
Question on the brakes: I've seen brake disc conversions, is it worth changing the drum brakes?

Then there's things like:

-Headlight restoration
-Replace cracked tail lights
-Paint restoration
-Overall maintenance knowledge
-Replace leaf spring suspension
Question on the leaf springs: Is it worth swapping to shocks/coils?

I feel like I know what I'm talking about... just a little bit

 

[rumblecloud]

That's quite a lengthy list -- but understandable. I know those items are not things you will jump into right off the bat so I won't even go there about advising you to take it easy. You sound like you have a great handle on things.

You'll find great satisfaction in doing the right things first - regular maintenance, tuning, clean-up, etc. You'll even find your list growing as you proceed.

One thing I would suggest is to create a running record of your efforts. I have an excel spreadsheet that goes back to the day I brought it home. I had to go back and re-create it when I started the rebuild but since I am the original owner and am a little anal when it comes to keeping receipts and shit it wasn't all that hard.

It really helps down the road when you can't remember when you changed the oil or greased the front end.

 

[Blmpkn]

Will do! I have a lot of respect for original models. I've always liked automobiles but never took any action on it. My favorites were always the classics being restored to their true glory. I love how automobiles aren't just a mean of transportation, they are literal history and with that being said it's a little disappointing that people just let'em rot. I guess a goal of mine is to learn restoration techniques and if I can do a little of my own taste, why not? Any original parts replaced will be restored(if possible), kept and put away for safe keeping. I believe in keeping what exists around and in good condition. If people had more respect for things we wouldn't have lost so much.



It was mentioned to me on this site that I could swap the differential to a higher ratio. I haven't looked much into it just yet, was mostly shopping for fluids, lights and a service manual. I'm not sure what to take a shot at first aside from getting on top of basic maintenance. I mean my first big modification or at least what constitutes a big modification for me. Honestly all the automatic transmission information is depressing, it has to go. I can't even anymore.

The main modifications I'm interested in are:

-Some sort of engine swap
-Manual transmission conversion
-Differential swap(if necessary)
-Dual exhaust
-Body work
-Mustang wheels
-Lower suspension
-Get that mean sound
-Change brakes
Question on the brakes: I've seen brake disc conversions, is it worth changing the drum brakes?

Then there's things like:

-Headlight restoration
-Replace cracked tail lights
-Paint restoration
-Overall maintenance knowledge
-Replace leaf spring suspension
Question on the leaf springs: Is it worth swapping to shocks/coils?

I feel like I know what I'm talking about... just a little bit

You should be able to get two birds stoned at once (rear disc's, lower rear ratio) by just doing an entire axle swap. Call around to junkyards or check car-part.com to see if they have anything that fits the bill.

As far as your suspension goes.. swapping out old leafs for new leafs is generally an easier thing to do (as long as your out of the salt belt lol).. swapping leafs for coils however is NOT. Going to coils out back would require a bunch of fab work and annoyances like needing to relocate your fuel tank and other crap.

 

[AutoRnD]

That's quite a lengthy list -- but understandable. I know those items are not things you will jump into right off the bat so I won't even go there about advising you to take it easy. You sound like you have a great handle on things.

You'll find great satisfaction in doing the right things first - regular maintenance, tuning, clean-up, etc. You'll even find your list growing as you proceed.

One thing I would suggest is to create a running record of your efforts. I have an excel spreadsheet that goes back to the day I brought it home. I had to go back and re-create it when I started the rebuild but since I am the original owner and am a little anal when it comes to keeping receipts and shit it wasn't all that hard.

It really helps down the road when you can't remember when you changed the oil or greased the front end.

Yeah, I'm definitely going to get ahead of myself every once in a while but I like to think I've been doing a good job holding myself back. Like I was advised before, I don't want to get into anything that's going to clean out my wallet or have my truck sitting there for days. Especially when I don't really know what I'm doing. You did remind me about receipts. So far I've bought lights, bed liner, radiator cap, plate holder, fuses and so on. I should have kept the receipts. Will be doing so from now on. Also I have a little journal I've been keeping records in, time to upgrade to digital and another thing I actually saw a sticker roll somewhere recently that had dates and reminder lines to fill out. I wanted that to keep track of oil and brake fluids and such.

You should be able to get two birds stoned at once (rear disc's, lower rear ratio) by just doing an entire axle swap. Call around to junkyards or check car-part.com to see if they have anything that fits the bill.

As far as your suspension goes.. swapping out old leafs for new leafs is generally an easier thing to do (as long as your out of the salt belt lol).. swapping leafs for coils however is NOT. Going to coils out back would require a bunch of fab work and annoyances like needing to relocate your fuel tank and other crap.

You should be able to get two birds stoned at once (rear disc's, lower rear ratio) by just doing an entire axle swap. Call around to junkyards or check car-part.com to see if they have anything that fits the bill.

As far as your suspension goes.. swapping out old leafs for new leafs is generally an easier thing to do (as long as your out of the salt belt lol).. swapping leafs for coils however is NOT. Going to coils out back would require a bunch of fab work and annoyances like needing to relocate your fuel tank and other crap.

Ok. I was curious because if I did manage to lower it I wanted some "fancy" caliper covers in that Ford blue considering the truck would be black...
Are you meaning that a differential swap could potentially come with discs?

I'll settle for replacing the leaf springs and I saw something about grinding down rust to bare metal and applying undercoat to the wheel well? I might research that and try it out. Also at some point I should worry about fuel efficiency but that's where I might get a little careless. I can sacrifice performance to a degree but I really want a nice sound.

 

[Blmpkn]

Yeah, I'm definitely going to get ahead of myself every once in a while but I like to think I've been doing a good job holding myself back. Like I was advised before, I don't want to get into anything that's going to clean out my wallet or have my truck sitting there for days. Especially when I don't really know what I'm doing. You did remind me about receipts. So far I've bought lights, bed liner, radiator cap, plate holder, fuses and so on. I should have kept the receipts. Will be doing so from now on. Also I have a little journal I've been keeping records in, time to upgrade to digital and another thing I actually saw a sticker roll somewhere recently that had dates and reminder lines to fill out. I wanted that to keep track of oil and brake fluids and such.





Ok. I was curious because if I did manage to lower it I wanted some "fancy" caliper covers in that Ford blue considering the truck would be black...
Are you meaning that a differential swap could potentially come with discs?

I'll settle for replacing the leaf springs and I saw something about grinding down rust to bare metal and applying undercoat to the wheel well? I might research that and try it out. Also at some point I should worry about fuel efficiency but that's where I might get a little careless. I can sacrifice performance to a degree but I really want a nice sound.

Yes, you could search around for an entire axle assembly that came with disc's AND in a lower (higher numerically) gear ratio for more 'snot'. Might even be able to find one that has a limited slip diff so you can burn BOTH tires off it instead of just one!

As far as undercoating goes.. using a product that needs to be applied to bare metal is just silly IMO. What I would do, personally, is use a rust encapsulator/converter like Corroseal and then spray it (or have it sprayed) with an oil based product like fluid film or woolwax... anything but the rubberized stuff. A 'bonus points' extra step you could add would be applying some enamel over your rust converter of choice before having the undercoating done.. the more layers of protection the better. I have a squarebody GM I'm (slowly) restoring and that's my exact plan of attack for its frame and stuff.. corroseal>tractor paint>goop.

 

[AutoRnD]

Yes, you could search around for an entire axle assembly that came with disc's AND in a lower (higher numerically) gear ratio for more 'snot'. Might even be able to find one that has a limited slip diff so you can burn BOTH tires off it instead of just one!

Damn, I would have never even thought of that. As for Corroseal, I've never even heard of it. I'll check it out. As for "extra points" yes, I want all the extra stuff. I can't quite grasp the condition of my Ranger, performance wise and visually and so I want to run all the possible checks and fluid replacements because even if it's just sitting there(which Ill try to avoid] I want to be able to save it before it's rust city and with that I want to take all the extra steps.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I have a bunch of things to say on this all, but you’re gonna have to wait on my response. Health problems are limiting what I can do at the moment.

 

[AutoRnD]

I have a bunch of things to say on this all, but you’re gonna have to wait on my response. Health problems are limiting what I can do at the moment.

No problem. Take your time. Sharing inormation with me isn't worth an injury. It isn't worth anything actually. Lol. Hope you're well!

Yes, you could search around for an entire axle assembly that came with disc's AND in a lower (higher numerically) gear ratio for more 'snot'. Might even be able to find one that has a limited slip diff so you can burn BOTH tires off it instead of just one!

As far as undercoating goes.. using a product that needs to be applied to bare metal is just silly IMO. What I would do, personally, is use a rust encapsulator/converter like Corroseal and then spray it (or have it sprayed) with an oil based product like fluid film or woolwax... anything but the rubberized stuff. A 'bonus points' extra step you could add would be applying some enamel over your rust converter of choice before having the undercoating done.. the more layers of protection the better. I have a squarebody GM I'm (slowly) restoring and that's my exact plan of attack for its frame and stuff.. corroseal>tractor paint>goop.

No matter how many times I watch stuff step by step I can't start but I'm still satisfied because I'm still on track with maintaining it.