Stabilizer?

[Weasel]

I'm a bad member. I drifted off participation and now return because I have an issue. I promise to try and be more active but with Squirrel Brain, anything is possible.

Anyway. I had some noises that increased on acceleration, like a squeak. Ir also developed a vibration. In an effort to continue to be wrong in my diagnostics, I suspected something wrong with the tire. I had jacked it up and pushed and pulled on the tire but it stayed firm. I thought I felt a low spot on the treads.

So, I decided to try a different tire, jacked it up and removed the tire and discovered the following;

Despite my best efforts to be wrong in this case, I determined that that was not right. Now, I'm not a mechanic but I've managed to learn enough to do some of my own work. What fails me is what part name I should be ordering because, unfortunately, most of the parts sites do not return favorable results with "The doohickey". Google tells me that this may be the stabilizer, or sway bar link. Sway bar link gets me results which, mercifully, are relatively cheap, even here in Canada.

I just want to ensure I'm ordering the proper part before I place an order. 2008. 2.3L Ranger.

Comments? Suggestions? Insults?

 

[Roert42]

Yeah, it's a sway bar link. Essentially it's a long bolt with some bushings and washers and a spacer in the middle.

That's what it's supposed to look like. If the one side broke the other is likely similar. For $10 a pop I would do both sides. They should be the same on the driver side and pass side.

 

[Roert42]

This is what it would look like un assembled.

 

[Josh B]

I'd paint that bearing grease cap too while I was in there

I'm supposing after almost 25 years I should be looking at my own eh

 

[pjtoledo]

if your Canadian rust is as good as the rust in Ohio that link will put up a fight.
the bolt is supposed to rotate inside the tube, mine was seized.

don't over tighten the new nuts, the bushings are not supposed to be severely squished.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

if your Canadian rust is as good as the rust in Ohio that link will put up a fight.
the bolt is supposed to rotate inside the tube, mine was seized.

don't over tighten the new nuts, the bushings are not supposed to be severely squished.

Good to know.

 

[don4331]

@pjtoledo He only has to remove the driver's side (passengers is already AWOL). They don't put up much of a fight vs the grinder.

@Weasel: Good to see you back. With the potholes here in Calgary, I would suggest getting the ones with oversize 7/16" bolts. SKP SK700540 is part number for one from Rockauto. If you need one urgently, I have spares (I'd just need it replaced). I consider them a "consumable" with way streets are/wife & kids drive.

 

[Weasel]

Thanks for the helps. I ordered a pair and replaced both driver and passenger. They were relatively easy to take off with the grinder. The truck seems happier though I still have a vibration which feels, to me, to be the tire.

I may stick the spare on and see if that clears it up. I original bought the truck at auction, it had been a city owned vehicle prior so it was regularly serviced. Though they did put 215s on instead of the 225, which the spare is, so running it with the spare long term isn't going to help.

Next up is to take care of some rust. Door bottoms, driver pan, one cab corner, and the top rails of the bed under the caps is almost gone. Not sure how to approach that one.

 

[superj]

new cab and doors?

 

[Roert42]

new cab and doors?

Also new bed.

Bed swap is the easy one.