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Sputtering/Loss of power/Dies


tx_pwp5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
123
City
Austin, TX
Vehicle Year
1987
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
4 inches
Tire Size
31x10.50
My credo
More auto shenanagans on instagram @waterloocustomworks
Hey guys,

I had to drop my truck off at the shop last night for an intermittent problem that wont go away.

After driving for more than about 30 minutes or so, and especially under loads like a heavy head wind, or lots of hills, my truck will start to sputter like its not getting fuel and die.

After waiting about 20-30 minutes, it would start back up and run normally, but last night it ran again for about 10 minutes then died the same way.

This has also happened to me when it is really hot after a long drive, but its the same, let it cool down, and it will run.

I think this might be a fuel pump issue, as it seems to get worse when I'm running low on gas.

Any ideas before I pay an arm and a leg to replace a bunch of stuff?

Since it isn't doing it all the time I know the shop is going to have a hard time sorting the problem out.

Thanks!
 
Classic TFI issue is misfiring and no start when engine/TFI module warms up
Read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml


I would change the fuel filter, every 5 years, it can cause highway speed issues if it starts to get clogged up, but you wouldn't have a cool down issue, engine would run OK at lower RPM.
Fuel pumps can get heat issues but it isn't common, pumps tend to fail outright, causing a no start, but once running they don't stop while driving.
Could happen just not common.
 
So I got the replacement ICM/TFI module yesterday and have two questions.

Mine was open and didn't come with the grease packet. Should I use dielectric grease or some kind of conductive heat sync material that will both insulate and help keep the connection?

I got the ford specialty tool to remove the nuts/screws and the driver side (furthers from plug) came out fine, but the harness side (passenger side) bolt/screw hole is either too small for the tool or is a different type. I also think it might be clogged/covered by the original paste/grease that might have been pushed up into the hole. Can anyone confirm that these are the exact same bolts or is one side different?

Thanks,
 
The Ford service manual calls for dielectric grease, which is probably fine, but I bet heat sync compound would be better.

Both bolts are the same size. I use a deep 1/4" drive 7/32 socket to remove them.
 
Wanted to update everyone who helped. It was definitly the TCI/ICM issue noted above. Took me a weekend in the rain, but I rewired it based on the tech articles and it hasn't bothered me since. Appreciate everyone's help. The real test will come in the summer.
 

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