Specialty tools

[skippy]

1.shop manual
2.parts store website
3.fat wallet
4.trs
5.skill(or blind luck)

 

[brendank]

You asked for "specialty tools", so that's what I'll stick to:

1. U-joint remover tool
2. Various types of pullers
3. Compression gauge
4. Snap-ring pliers
5. Battery load tester

 

[lil red]

heres mine
craftsman bolt extractors
shop manual
the new sledge
my dad
and trs of course

 

[almostclueless]

factory shop manuals
PB Blaster (because WD-40 might as well be water)
MIG welder (yeah baby)
multimeter and the knowledge to use it well
$75 air tool set (expendable air tools and accessories on the cheap)

 

[Danger-Ranger96]

Spindle locknut tool, torque wrench, my 2 foot breaker bar, my ratchet box end wrenches, and of course my medium sized pry bar

 

[fordman49450]

torx sockets
swivel headed impact sockets
magnet
ratchet wrenches
vise grips

 

[colinrmitchell]

you should also list an appropriate launching tool for #5 above....Far more satisfying than just throwing it. I would suggest a Mauser bolt action from experience.

How about a Yugo M70AB2?
20 HPs are an easy way to open the diff cover!

 

[p575]

just got done swapping a motor, and i would have to say the most used tool i had, was a set of ratchet wrenches. i picked them up more than the sockets. i caught em on sale at sears for about 25 bucks a set after using a coupon or something. i woulda paid 100 bucks a set for them this week.

 

[dude772]

ball peen HAMMER!!!! (good for everything!)

Snap-on semi deep sockets (can get where a deep is too long, and shallow is too small)

ratcheting wrenches (fast, handy, can get into tight spots)

cordless impact gun(i know its not a hand tool but its handy as hell!)

medium sized pry bar(lots of uses)

 

[rusty ol ranger]

YOu do realize damn near anything can be fixed with the following tools....

Vice grips. (Its a complete, Wrench, Ratchet, allan head, torx head, c clamp, press, plier, puller, set right in the palm of your hand)
WD40 (Can be used as cutting oil, penterating oil, hand cleaner, carb cleaner, starting fluid, degreaser, etc)
Flathead screwdriver. (Prybar, chisel, gasket scraper, can be used on phillips heads with enough luck, punch, knife, mixing stick, applicator, pin, etc)
Hammer. (If you cant fix it with stuff metioned above, permantly disable it )

later,
Dustin

 

[Insanejughead]

you should also list an appropriate launching tool for #5 above....Far more satisfying than just throwing it. I would suggest a Mauser bolt action from experience.

Do you realize that Mauser bolt actions will not fire this cartridge unless you have a chamber adapter. Even then, you need to make sure that your bullets (projectile, not cartridges) are the proper diameter to fill the bore.

Mauser rifles come in these calibers: 7mmx57mm, 7.65x53, and 8mmx(forgot length) So, if you were to use 7.62x39, you would have to get a new barrel chambered for that diameter and length cartridge.

Handloading would be most helpful (do it smartly)


Better yet, just get a cheap SKS and have fun.


*Just letting you know*

 

[97RangerXLT]

Do you realize that Mauser bolt actions will not fire this cartridge unless you have a chamber adapter. Even then, you need to make sure that your bullets (projectile, not cartridges) are the proper diameter to fill the bore.

Mauser rifles come in these calibers: 7mmx57mm, 7.65x53, and 8mmx(forgot length) So, if you were to use 7.62x39, you would have to get a new barrel chambered for that diameter and length cartridge.

Handloading would be most helpful (do it smartly)


Better yet, just get a cheap SKS and have fun.


*Just letting you know*

yeah the 8mm one is the one that I fired. I was thinking it was a 7.62 x 39. My buddy owns it, and I believe his is a Turkish made version. He has several different WW2 era bolt actions. one of them is the 7.62 x 39, and for some reason I was thinking Mauser. He also has a 7.62 x 54 Nagant, a 7.7(not 100% sure) Japanese Arisaka (not a last ditch either) and two others that I cannot remember offhand. I have an Enfield .303, so between the two of us we have quite a few of the WW2 bolt action rifles that were out there.

AJ

 

[Insanejughead]

yeah the 8mm one is the one that I fired. I was thinking it was a 7.62 x 39. My buddy owns it, and I believe his is a Turkish made version. He has several different WW2 era bolt actions. one of them is the 7.62 x 39, and for some reason I was thinking Mauser. He also has a 7.62 x 54 Nagant, a 7.7(not 100% sure) Japanese Arisaka (not a last ditch either) and two others that I cannot remember offhand. I have an Enfield .303, so between the two of us we have quite a few of the WW2 bolt action rifles that were out there.

AJ

Those 8mm Mausers are quite popular to rebarrel and sporterize. It's a shame that not so many of the other mausers are done up the same. Always be sure of the caliber and chamber before shooting though. I seen a few of the Turkish mausers... I thought they were nice, but I'd rather have a Mosin or Argentine.

I have a 7.65x53 Argentine Mauser and I love it. It just fits me... that's the best way to describe it.

The Arisaka is 7.7, yes, and those are made VERY strongly. You cannot seem to break the action, the barrel will split first. (only for certain years though, I think it's 1938 and after models.) They also have a 6.7, or 6.5 (I can't remember, but make sure you are shooting the RIGHT caliber.) You won't like the kick if your putting 7.7mm bullets through a 6.7 bore!

The Mosin-Nagant... That is an AWESOME rifle. Ugly, yes... but it is certainly the best designed gun I can think of. 7.62x54 has quite a LONG history. It is also the longest serving military rifle! It's still being used by 2nd and 3rd world countries.



Sorry for getting off topic here...

 

[shadetree]

WD40 (Can be used as cutting oil, penterating oil, hand cleaner, carb cleaner, starting fluid, degreaser, etc)Dustin

We tried using WD40 as a starting fluid and it would not work at all. Not enough heat content.
Also, it is not a penetrant, it is a surficant. It's primary intended use is for the removal of moisture. shady

 

[freebird]

We tried using WD40 as a starting fluid and it would not work at all. Not enough heat content.
Also, it is not a penetrant, it is a surficant. It's primary intended use is for the removal of moisture. shady

Corerect, the "WD" in front of 40 stands for Water Displacement. It was designed to draw moisture out of electrical connections. But does have many other uses. Including a propellant