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spark plugs


redneckfordranger1986

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
178
Age
38
City
Hermann, Mo
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Automatic
ok before i started this tread i looked to see if there was any on spark plugs didnt see any . well anyways i was wondering if anybodys used accel spark plugs , wires and blaster coil? I was gonna use them on my ranger but before i do i would like some advice .
 
good low resistance wires stock autolite or motorcraft single platinum plugs and the stock coil is all you need. Your spending more money for little to no gain in performance.
 
ok before i started this tread i looked to see if there was any on spark plugs didnt see any . well anyways i was wondering if anybodys used accel spark plugs , wires and blaster coil? I was gonna use them on my ranger but before i do i would like some advice .

I've heard good things about accel but i've never tried, I never have the money to get anything but stock. I've always wanted to go with MSD.
 
I only use Motorcraft spark plugs. I have Autolite wires and a screamin demon coil pack and have been happy with the coil pack
 
The TFI systems on the 2.9 don't seem to like performance plugs in my experience. Motorcraft and Autolites seem to work best. Gotta be careful with high performance coils too. They have the potential to burn out the already problematic TFI module even faster. And like Kim said, you are gonna end up spending significant cash for insignificant gains.


As for MSD packs, MSDs provide little benefit on distributor systems. Most Ford coil-pack systems already use a multiple discharge strategy in factory form, so those still don't net you lots of benefit.
 
I'm running Accel plugs, wires, cap and rotor on my F-150. It does run better than when I first got the truck, but when I got it there was 69k miles on the original Motorcraft stuff - the truck is a '95 and I got it in '08. Plugs were all a bit worn, gap was around .060 on a couple of 'em, so any new plugs and wires would net a gain.

The reason I went with Accel? Money was tight when I got the tune-up stuff. Pricing out the cheap plugs, wires, cap and rotor from the parts stores around here ended up being about $15 more than I could order the Accel tune-up kit in a box from Summit Racing for the truck.
 
It's still a 2.9L motor. Even running the best coil on the market, the best plugs, wires, cap and rotor, it's still not going to gain you really much of anything. Unless you build up the motor, IMHO, there is no sense buying anything expensive.

If your coil is weak, however, you will benefit from having a new coil. I just put a new one in my F-150 because I suspected the one in it was weak/defective because of some starting problems. I looked at the MSD coils but after talking with several people I just bought the regular replacement. With my discount at the parts store it ran me about $15 - about half of my cost for a lower end MSD.
 
lol, like I said, if I can get a good deal on "performance" parts like the Accel tune-up kit I got for my F-150, I'll run that, but otherwise OEM is fine.

I would, however, highly recommend getting some Dielectric grease and using that on any electrical connections you take apart, and on the ends of the plug wires. Does wonders for helping prevent corrosion and the like. I buy it by the big tube rather than the little packets, it's a better deal that way. Speaking of which I need to pick up another tube while I'm out tomorrow....
 
i know when i got the truck the last owner used e3 plugs . i longed changed them out . i want to do a full tune up on it
 
i don't use e3 or any multiple electrode plug, i've never had any luck with them... accel is good stuff but honestly doesn't give you more then OEM stuff

when companies design these motors and stuff, they know what they are doing.. they use a certain plug, wire, injector, etc on purpose.. if you start with more fire, you need more gas... for more gas, you need more air, with all that you need better exhaust.

so yeah.. even with my catback exhaust and k and n filter..i still get best results out of the OEM motorcraft plugs.
 
believe me when i say, stock plugs are the way to go. i put ngk plugs in my truck and took them out after only 3000 kms. they gave me a roungh idle and bad mileage. the stock give me all the power i need and better mpg.

DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY!! IM OUT 40 BUCKS ON PLUGS ILL NEVER BOTHER TO USE AGAIN.
 
Ok, if you want to do a full tune-up, here is what I do (I'm giving the checklist I use when I buy a newly used vehicle, I use the same list for a regular tune-up, just minus out the things that may already be taken care of like oil change).

1) New plugs. Like I said, I go with OE or performance, whatever is nicer to my wallet at the time.

2) Plug wires. OE or performance, whatever has the better price but I usually lean towards performance because quality electrical wire is important.

3) Cap and rotor for ignitions with a distributor. I go for the brass terminals if I can afford it. The cheap aluminum ones can be a nightmare.

4) PCV valve. I usually do them when I get a vehicle because it's an often neglected part that is cheap to replace. Every 50k after that it gets done. Been doing that since I had a truck that kept spitting oil out the exhaust and I couldn't find the reason. Replaced that valve and it fixed the problem.

5) Oil change. Nothing but Motorcraft filters. (hint, walmart has a decent price on 'em). Change the filter an use a decent grade of oil. I'll add about a cup of ATF (1/4 quart) to the oil too the first time or two - old mechanics trick for cleaning some of the gunk out without really harming any gaskets.

6) Air filter. You wouldn't believe some of the ugly air filters I've seen. I swear some people never pop the hood to check things till the check engine light comes on.

7) Fuel filter. I try to change them every bout 20k miles. I've been told by a number of people that only one bad tank of gas can gum up a filter.

8) Check the fluid in the transmission, transfer case (if 4x4), and axles. If it's low but the fluid looks good, I'll add some unless it has an obvious leak. Otherwise it gets drained and refreshed.

9) If it has an automatic transmission, it gets both new fluid and a new filter. Autos like clean fluid and filters - they last longer that way.

10) I've been forced to add this one lately because of electrical problems. Check the alternator, battery, all the wiring (just a visual check on the wiring for problems), feel the ground wire off the battery, flex it and listen to see if it sounds crunchy, replace if it does. Check the fuses and relays to make sure they all look good (I had a truck with a fuel problem and found that somehow the relay got smashed, somebody wrapped it in cardboard and electrical tape - I kid you not). I'll check the coil and TFI module too if applicable. My F-150 had a weak coil and a TFI that fails one of 6 tests which caused hard starting and some stumbling. Autozone stores can test the TFI and coil, not sure about any other auto parts stores.
 

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