Sound deadening material

[KaHOnas]

I bought a couple boxes of Siless sound mat, one 80mil (2mm), the other 120mil (3mm).




Since I've never done any "dynamat" work with a Ranger before, does anyone have any tips? I am planning on replacing my front and rear speakers along with the headliner at some point. Basically, soon I'll have access to all the nooks and crannies in my'98 SuperCab.

If anyone has any experiences or tips they'd like to share, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, everyone!

David
'98 SuperCab

 

[Slyronious]

Basically you want the surface to be clean and degreased. Also it may need a heat gun if you are putting it on in cold weather. If you run out, you can use Butyl Flash Tape from Lowe's. It's in the guttering section. I've found it works just as good as Dynamat and costs less.

 

[flyin-lowe]

I replaced the factory speakers in my son’s 04. No fancy system just new head unit and speakers. When I had the door speakers out I put sound dampener in. I just reached back as far in the door cavity as I could through the speaker hole and covered as much of the door skin as I could get. No idea if it made a difference or not but I assume is didn’t hurt anything. I had the material left over from another project.

in my square body I put in new interior so I did under the carpet, under the headliner etc. in that truck it was more for road noise than stereo improvements

 

[sgtsandman]

I'm no expert but I've been told you don't need to cover everything to make a difference. If it makes metal noise when you knock on it with your knuckle, run a strip or two until it goes away. If it doesn't, leave it be.

Sound deadening mat is heavy and adds weight to the vehicle fast. Not to mention the expense. Run what you need and no more.

 

[JoshT]

Wait until it's warm, or put it in the garage with the heat turned up. Heat definitely helps that stuff bend, conform, and stick. If you don't have a roller, get one. A rounded handle, like a screw driver can also be handy to push it down into smaller nooks and crannies, like some of the the narrower depressions on the floorpans.

They say that you don't actually need 100% coverage to do the job which will help it go further. You can look up online to find more information about how much coverage is necessary/desired.

I did it on the floor and trunk of my Kia several years ago, but can't say how much of a difference it actually made. Turns out that most of the noise in is is likely coming from the doors and I've never removed the door panels. Maybe soon, I've got a power window switch and door handle that could stand to be replaced.

 

[JoshT]

Sound deadening mat is heavy and adds weight to the vehicle fast.

There is a fix for that. To quote Tim Taylor: "MORE POWER"

(AKA V8 swap.)

 

[Curious Hound]

Like sandman and Josh said, 100%coverage is not necessary at all. It is not sound absorbant material. It just dampens the vibrations in large sheets of metal so the metal doesn't resonate and produce sound itself. For example. You can grip the edge of a bell and it won't ring when you strike it. Your hand doesn't need to cover the whole bell and you aren't absorbing the sound. You are just preventing the bell from vibrating after the initial strike. Watch a percussionist playing the kettle drums in an Orchestra. He/she will place their hand in the drum head after striking it to stop the vibrations if a short, staccato note is desired.

I work in a BMW manufacturing plant. We make some of the quietest (regarding interior ambient noise) cars you can buy. The sound deadening material is only applied to large open areas of sheet metal.

 

[flyin-lowe]

Forgot to add, these are cheap and handy.

Amazon.com

 

[JoshT]

That's the roller I was talking about. Mine wasn't fancy enough to have roller bearings, but pretty much any roller like that will do the job.

 

[Mindcrime]

I bought a couple boxes of Siless sound mat, one 80mil (2mm), the other 120mil (3mm).

View attachment 121914
View attachment 121915

Since I've never done any "dynamat" work with a Ranger before, does anyone have any tips? I am planning on replacing my front and rear speakers along with the headliner at some point. Basically, soon I'll have access to all the nooks and crannies in my'98 SuperCab.

If anyone has any experiences or tips they'd like to share, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, everyone!

David
'98 SuperCab

I just did mine. Definitely want a clean dry surface to start. Vacuum it out well too. I use rubbing alcohol to clean inside door skin area extra well. I also used closed cell foam on back wall roof, and floorpan over the deadener. Do not put closed cell or any foam inside the door. Just use deadener inside door skin area. You can apply the foam layer on back of door panel to reduce road noise. Honesty the butyl doesn’t really block much except the tinny sheetmetal echo and keeps rattles and vibrations at bay. . The closed cell absorbs and dissipates the outside noise. It’s kinda a two stage process to do it right. I personally covered 95% of the inside with something similar to the Stiles. Then used 157 mil closed cell foam over that. I am having issues running new speaker wire to my doors so I can’t tell you how much improvement all of it made yet.
You definitely want to get a roller and some extra razor blades. Some areas you can use entire sheets, but most of the material will need to be cut/trimmed to fit. On sections where you have rolled edges you will be better off cutting from the crown down to the egde of sheet to help roll it without a ton of air bubbles. And don’t try to make transitions with whole sheets. Air bubbles are easy to puncture with razor and roll out. Peel the paper as you apply or apply from one end first. It’s actually not hard. Just a P.I.T.A! Wear gloves if you don’t want cuts or be mindful without them. The foil edges are sharp as a knife. It’s easier to cover your bolt holes and punch them than cut them out prior to laying down. Keep your material above 60 degrees and you shouldn’t need a heat gun. If it’s warmer it bends and forms better but it’s doable in the high 50’s to mid 60’s. I will tell you that if you use a heat gun, warm it till the sheet starts to bend over. The warmer the stickier, but once it’s warmed up and applied you will tear it up trying to remove and reapply. For me, I prefer it less sticky until I have it all down, then come back with heat gun and re roll it to make that pretty much perfect.

 

[KaHOnas]

Keep your material above 60 degrees and you shouldn’t need a heat gun. If it’s warmer it bends and forms better but it’s doable in the high 50’s to mid 60’s. I will tell you that if you use a heat gun, warm it till the sheet starts to bend over. The warmer the stickier, but once it’s warmed up and applied you will tear it up trying to remove and reapply. For me, I prefer it less sticky until I have it all down, then come back with heat gun and re roll it to make that pretty much perfect.

All great tips. Thank you.

It's been pretty cold where I live so I've decided to put off this project until the temperatures get higher. I've decided this is probably more of a nice 70°F spring day project.

 

[dsiddens]

As Curious Hound said about selectively deadening panels, I can confirm this from my experience of quieting steel panels of woodshop tools. A piece of plywood glued with construction adhesive to the inside of the sheet metal stand quiets well.

 

[Curious Hound]

As Curious Hound said about selectively deadening panels, I can confirm this from my experience of quieting steel panels of woodshop tools. A piece of plywood glued with construction adhesive to the inside of the sheet metal stand quiets well.

That's a nice, inexpensive solution for machinery like that.