Some rear axle questions

[Mud Buggy]

hello....i have a 1996 explorer and i believe it has an 8.8 rear end. basically my rear is fragged and i new the most cost effective way to get my daily driver back. ive been quoted 2 prices that range from $650 to $800 to get a junkyard axle with same gearing and have it installed. i figure i can save about 200 dollars by doing this work myself so what i need to know is this: 1. where can i find the gear ratio and how would i tell if its a limited slip or not? 2. where there any rear axles of this year with drum brakes? and if so would a rear drum axle be a direct swap for an axle that has discs? or would that cause conflicts with the brakes? (not that i want drums, but if it was cheaper or the only one i can find with the right gear ratio it might be an option) 3. what other kinds of things should i expect to run into trying to put a junkyard rear axle under my explorer?

thanks

 

[scotts90ranger]

you can save more than $200... junk yards around me charge $125ish for these things, for your explorer you can get any explorer rear axle as long as you use the back plates and stuff from yours. as far as gear ratio either read the door tag and look up the axle code in the tech library or look at the tag that should be attached to one of the diff cover bolts, there will be two lines of text, the first digits of the second row are the axle ratio something like 3 73 will be an open diff with 3.73's, a 3L73 will be a limited slip 3.73 simple as that. '95 and up will be disk brake but if you pull the axle shafts and tie the calipers and backing plates up to the body while you pull the housing you don't even need to bleed the brakes and you can use a drum or disk axle.

If you have a jack, a couple good jack stands, an 18mm deep socket and some other basic tools along with 3 quarts of gear oil and some brake fluid and some ultra black silicone you should be able to get it done in a few hours with a buddy to help muscle the thing around. it is really straight forward

 

[4.0B2]

everything he said.. yep. its the truth.

now, if you go to pull one from a JY, take some PB Blaster.. and a good cheater bar
if you're truck is 2wd, just find out what gear ratio you want and find a rear axle that is geared that, if you wanna leave it stock-- then find one that's the same. if you want lower, find one lower. if its 4wd- remember you're gonna have to regear the front if you don't keep it stock.

oh and make sure to take a good 12 point 12mm socket and wrench for the bolts in the driveshaft.

 

[disciplerocks]

Junkyard here charge about $80 for a complete rear end. Where are you at? I may be able to help.

And my stock u-bolt nuts on my 8.8 were 13/16 not 18mm, but x2 on everything else they said.

 

[scotts90ranger]

it's actually 21mm but 13/16" is very close, I was thinking 7.5 for some reason...

to get the driveshaft bolts out easy, get a cheapie butane pencil torch and heat up the part of the flange that the bolts go into for about 30 seconds each (they are held in with loctite) and use a 12mm 12pt closed end wrench and tap it with a hammer if it's stubborn, if you can't get a little torch a hammer and the wrench will do just fine.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Those prices are ridiculously high. I managed to score 2 Explorer 8.8's for about $150. Granted the one was kinda chewed up, but it had the clutch L/S. The other was fine.

$200 is still not an unreasonable price to pay for one, I'd go $250 if it's clean and they can prove it's from a lower mileage vehicle. If they won't meet those prices, tell them to take a hike.

X5 that you can do it yourself.

 

[badmts]

First I would look around for a salvage yard that offers installation NOT a shop that is willing to sell and install a used item- big difference. Now I am all for saving money but more than a few times I have gone to PULL-A-PART with a cool plan to get this or that part only to wave the white flag and get one of the DAY LABOR guys that hang out there to do it for 30-40 bucks,what do they say about THE ROAD TO HELL? Yeah $650.00 seems a little high,IF you do alot of this stuff and have tools and helper buddies and air and a lift , you bet this is a 45 minute to 90 minute deal (it's called beating the flat rate,as a service writer I see it daily and COUNT ON IT) but if you do NOT have that stuff and you are using hand tools and jack stands then its a 2-4 HOUR deal and it could be a 2 day deal if parts don't cooperate.What most DIYers DON'T do is VALUE YOUR TIME, also don't forget a possible warranty,how much did you save if YOU have to crawl under the car in crappy weather to put in another used axle? I would think $200 for the axle and $200 to install from a local yard that offers install AND a warranty seems fair -FYI I am ASE CERTIFIED but I like the service advisor role

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I will agree with badmts in that the job can turn into a 2 to 3 daymare. If you have all the tools to do it safely and/or are willing to buy the tools [ buy quality, it pays in time saved], it is a fairly straight forward job. Heat is your friend and I would suggest getting new axle spring bolts [and ALL the parts you need BEFORE you start], then you can save a bit of time and cut or torch off the old bolts. If money is an issue, and it has been with me, take a wire wheel or brush to everything that has to come apart and then soak it down with your favorite penetrant for a week before you start, respraying once a day.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[badmts]

One real important thing I and others on here forgot is (wait for it ,here it comes) GET ON YOUR REGIONAL FOURM AND ASK FOR HELP !!! You will be amaazzeed at how helpful and KNOWLEDGEABLE THESE GUYS ARE I have helped a couple of members in my area and been helped by a member and I spent some serious coin at anothers place of employement and he made sure I got just the bumper I wanted! When there is good company,steaks/burgers and beer I have actually SEEN parts jump on a truck BY THEMSELVES!

 

[Mud Buggy]

thanks for all the advice....im fairly confident that i can handle pulling and installing the axle. im glad to hear that prices you guys paid are way lower than i expected as money is an issue here. ive got my code (D4) which translates to an 8.8" L/S with 3.73 gears. im gonna call around to the local junkyards and see what i can find. thanks again

 

[Mud Buggy]

i guess i didnt mention that by "fragged" i mean the rear end was ran out of gear oil and now everything is grindy and nasty. so i assume that alot of the guts on my axle are shot which makes me shy away from the rebuild idea. i plan to find a exact swap axle and install that so i avoid gear change in front. i want to keep the limited slip..but i guess if all i can find are open 3.73's i guess i go with it. really i wish i would have just caught the leak since it would have only been a $20 fix, but life happens.