Some general hp/tq & axle combo guidelines?

[Vexarana]

Yeah I know p-pumped is always better for higher figures. Hopefully I can find one but I can always just stop at around 200-250 on a VE since I want lighter axles.

What kind of hassle am I looking at specifically for a TTB D50? I mean, it will be coming out from under my F-250 so I'm knowing the gearing and the condition it is in and everything, and it's basically free.... I was looking at TTB D44 just as a full width version of the D35 under it right now. Figure for free, might as well go a little bigger.

If it really isn't doable without being far fetched I'll probably end up with a D60 front and rear. But no money is better than any money spent.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44TTB.htm

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44TTBconversion.htm

People have done to D35's as well:

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/44knuckleswap.htm

Me personally, if the knuckle swap wasn't enough I would skip out of the mud/snow plow TTB's altogether and go with a solid... with what you are doing a D60 would be my first choice.

 

[Vexarana]

Trying to avoid SAS just on principle lol. I'm going to be taking a few suspension and fabrication classes before I attempt to do this all on my own, especially since it will be on a tight timeline.

Does anyone know of someone who has already put a D50 underneath their vehicle? There is a thread for something on Pirate 4x4 IIRC what I saw earlier today but I couldn't view it without being a member.. kinda dumb. But I did find out the D50 beams are already equal length.. they just need to be extended.