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Solid Axle Swap


Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
13
City
CT
Vehicle Year
2004
Transmission
Manual
I have a Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2 I want to do a SAS and put leafs on the front so i can suspension lift it. First question is what axle and leaf springs do I need. Second how much should it cost in all, I know I have to buy new drive shafts and stuff.
 
1. Axle depends on who you ask and what your long term goal is. A lot of people use d30's and some will say that's not strong enough....regardless, what size tire you want? What kind of riding will you be doing?
2. Why leaf? Why not coil spring it?
3. How much lift do you want? Again, what size tire...
4. Low Center of Gravity is better, remember that
5. SAS's can easily cost $1200+ by the time it's all said and done DEPENDING on how much of the fab work you can do yourself.
6. Are you comfortable welding parts that your life depends on?
7. SEARCH... Look around. There are TONS of newer ranger SAS builds on here and other forums. Some leafs some coils.... some even airshocks and coilovers (drool....)
 
I need it to be a good daily driver but be able to withstand off roading, my plan with this is to get 35" tires and eventually lift it more for bigger tires. I would like to do coils, I have a buddy who can do welding and fab work, I trust him if not I could always pay a shop and I read a post on a guy using a dana 44. Besides the axle, coils, drive shaft and shocks anything else I am missing that i would need to buy. I estimate it will be about 2000 dollars to complete the whole project is that a fair estimate.
 
Since you daily drive it, I highly recommend coil spring, leafs are easier and quicker, but give a really rough ride. Different springs can soften it, but you just can't beat a coil spring setup. Check out our classifieds, there are a set of Duff coil buckets for sale. Check out your local junkyard for an axle donor, definitely go at least 44. Make sure to get the radius arms, and the radius arm mounts if you can. Most of your fabwork will be cutting off everything under the front of yours. Since your 98+ ranger, you will also need a gearbox. Some use a Toyota ifs box, others use a mid to late ford 70's box. If you go with the 70's ford box, the tracbar mount bolts onto the frame, get that too. Everything you get from the junkyard will save you some $$ in brackets you won't have to buy. Setting it up is easy. Once the frame is cleaned and cleared, position the axle under the truck (some push the axle forward a couple inches, I pushed mine about 6) then connect your radius arm frame mounts, tracbar frame mount, lastly your coil bucket mounts. If you stay full width, you will need to space your coil buckets away from the frame about an inch or two per side. Some say to hang the buckets first, but I've found it to work best last, less repositioning needed...

SVT
 
Since you daily drive it, I highly recommend coil spring, leafs are easier and quicker, but give a really rough ride. Different springs can soften it, but you just can't beat a coil spring setup. Check out our classifieds, there are a set of Duff coil buckets for sale. Check out your local junkyard for an axle donor, definitely go at least 44. Make sure to get the radius arms, and the radius arm mounts if you can. Most of your fabwork will be cutting off everything under the front of yours. Since your 98+ ranger, you will also need a gearbox. Some use a Toyota ifs box, others use a mid to late ford 70's box. If you go with the 70's ford box, the tracbar mount bolts onto the frame, get that too. Everything you get from the junkyard will save you some $$ in brackets you won't have to buy. Setting it up is easy. Once the frame is cleaned and cleared, position the axle under the truck (some push the axle forward a couple inches, I pushed mine about 6) then connect your radius arm frame mounts, tracbar frame mount, lastly your coil bucket mounts. If you stay full width, you will need to space your coil buckets away from the frame about an inch or two per side. Some say to hang the buckets first, but I've found it to work best last, less repositioning needed...

SVT

this.. :icon_welder::icon_thumby::icon_thumby:
 
Im currently doing my sas on my 97. They are different suspension types. But ill just say its never as cheap as you plan :annoyed: So far I have about 4xxx into my build. Also dont forget to check out some of the other build threads on here. They sure have helped me :icon_thumby: Good luck with your build
 
Im currently doing my sas on my 97. They are different suspension types. But ill just say its never as cheap as you plan :annoyed: So far I have about 4xxx into my build. Also dont forget to check out some of the other build threads on here. They sure have helped me :icon_thumby: Good luck with your build

Yeah I've got that or more into mine. It adds up fast. You can do it for way cheaper but I like new/quality stuff...:icon_welder:
 
Its all the little stuff you don't think about that add up. Brake lines, gears, grade 8 bolts, power stearing lines, etc etc. I think after everything said and done I spent around 4-5k. It's pretty cheap to mount the axle. It's making it drive safe down the road that adds up. Keep in mind, the year truck your doing a sas in is probably the most difficult. due to the amount of stuff you're going to have to remove and grind off (Just my oppinion).
 

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