Small bock swap with floor shift auto & 4x4.

[koda6966]

A friend of mine just offered me his engine from his mustang. He's doing a big block swap so he doesn't need the 302. Before I commit and put money in on the swap I want to know what my best bet would be for a floor shift auto with a manual transfer case? I would like it to match up with a 302 or something similar, with good power and decent aftermarket support. And if possibly I would like the engine/trans/t-case to all come from the same vehicle, unless I can bolt an older (80's-90's) truck trans with the t-case up to whatever small block is proposed. That would be awesome.

Either way I'm still thinking about picking up the 302 just in case, since I could definitely get myself out from under it if I need to go to a different engine.

The engine he has is from a 91 Mustang convertable, automatic.

 

[makeos]

Mine has 302 from a 94 mustang, floor shift attached to a c4 (possibly c4/c5 hybrid), and manual tcase (believe it said 1350? which I think is the stock case).

 

[koda6966]

Yeah 1350 is a stock transfer case.

I'm new to the whole "v8 swap" thing, I've done some little bits of research and question asking here and there but now it's all down to me being about ready to start buying stuff.

Does the C4 trans bolt right up to the engine from the mustang? And are there any other transmissions that bolt up and provide the use of a transfer case?

I know the C4 is a three speed, I'd like a four speed if possible.

 

[koda6966]

Before I get too picky on the three versus 4 speed, how does the difference effect power and fuel economy? My truck is going to be running 33 inch tires, so fuel economy will already suck. With the C4, 302, and 33" tires what type of gears should I run? Right now I have a 28 spline 8.8 but I'm planning an 31 spline explorer disc swap.

Also if a moderator could change the title to block instead of bock it would be cool.

 

[koda6966]

I have alot of questions... lol

The tech library lists a nice article about V8 swaps, but it constantly says that you can re-use your stock PS and alternator stuff. Lets say my stock PS stuff is toast, will the V8 accessories work with my OEM (2wd) suspension or will I need to go straight to my SAS along with the engine swap? I had hoped to hold off on the 4x4 SAS until next spring or the year after due to funding issues.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have a C5, which is basically a fancy C4.

I used a B&M Unimatic cable floor shifter, I love it. The guy I got it from put the back end of a RBV C5 on it so the stock transfercase and shift linkage could be used.

For a DD I would recommend and OD. With 235/75-15 tires and 3.73 gears she is churning about 2500-2700 RPM down the highway. Sure you could compensate with higher gears or bigger tires but it would hurt your driveablity too. I have a set of 31's to put on which should help that a little. It is a snappy little bugger around town, I really enjoy driving it.

No reason your accessories wouldn't work if they bolt up. I used the PS pump that came with the engine since my Rangers was a howler, works great. I knew my alternator was pretty new so I used it.

 

[koda6966]

If I didn't do 4x4 and I had a 1992 5.0 Thunderbird, assuming I had the whole car how well will this work for a swap? I would also plan on using the stock AOD transmission.

I found one cheap on craigslist, well within my budget for an engine.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

A non-HO won't be a barn burner but will still make for a spunky driver.

An HO has more options for cams and such.

T-birds seem to be a mix and match as far as I have noticed. There is probably a rhyme or reason but I haven't really gotten into them enough to know where the line is.

 

[koda6966]

It has the HO.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It has the HO.

As long as the tranny is in good shape and you stay realistic with what you do to the engine and what the tranny can take you should have a really nice setup then.

 

[koda6966]

In all honesty it will probably remain stock. Minor mods if any.

If I wanted to put tons of HP into the truck I wouldn't use this one.

 

[RangerSVT]

Use the mustang motor, see if you can get the EFI harness and ECU (A9L) from him, he won't need either if he's going BB. Also, plan to use the AOD, the AOD was also available in the mid to late 80's F150 (85-91), the later years also had the AODE, so be careful of that. The F150 AOD can be used for 4x4 applications. 3.73's would be a good all round gear for 33's and a V8. Some would say 4.10's, but for mpg's, the 3.73's would be better, while still decent offroad. I'm running 4.56's with overdrive and my mileage sucks (16mpg) but I'm also running almost a foot of lift with a bunch of other mods, and just about every code possible for the O2's my ECU is throwing. It runs smooth as ice, so I'm not really worried about it. Some use the C5 trans from the RBV's, and bolt on the C4 bellhousing to bolt it to the V8, this allows the use of an RBV tcase, which will survive behind a V8, if you go C4 or AOD, your choices are Advance Adapters kit (about $500) which gives you an output shaft (which a trans shop will have to install for you) and a Tcase adapter (trans tailhousing to tcase), you can mod your frame and run the F series 1356, you can run an earlier dana 20 from an Early Bronco, or if you can find an NP 205 from an old F series truck from the 70's era, or go with an atlas. I went with the dana 20 cause I had one, and later got a 205 for my other truck. The dana 20 is the lightest of all tcases, as well as the smallest. I'm building a doubler setup with a 1356 and the 20, and combined my setup will be shorter than most single tcases produced, allowing me to run my stock fuel tank un-modified...Hope this info helps...
SVT

 

[koda6966]

I'm gonna head over to his place to check it out, he said the car hasn't been started in almost 30 years with is mad sketchy. He just started doing some mild body work to it last week and is getting ready for the tear down. We're going to see if it's siezed up or not, most likley it is in which case I'll pass on it.

 

[Snoranger]

Use the mustang motor, see if you can get the EFI harness and ECU (A9L) from him, he won't need either if he's going BB. Also, plan to use the AOD, the AOD was also available in the mid to late 80's F150 (85-91), the later years also had the AODE, so be careful of that. The F150 AOD can be used for 4x4 applications. 3.73's would be a good all round gear for 33's and a V8. Some would say 4.10's, but for mpg's, the 3.73's would be better, while still decent offroad. I'm running 4.56's with overdrive and my mileage sucks (16mpg) but I'm also running almost a foot of lift with a bunch of other mods, and just about every code possible for the O2's my ECU is throwing. It runs smooth as ice, so I'm not really worried about it. Some use the C5 trans from the RBV's, and bolt on the C4 bellhousing to bolt it to the V8, this allows the use of an RBV tcase, which will survive behind a V8, if you go C4 or AOD, your choices are Advance Adapters kit (about $500) which gives you an output shaft (which a trans shop will have to install for you) and a Tcase adapter (trans tailhousing to tcase), you can mod your frame and run the F series 1356, you can run an earlier dana 20 from an Early Bronco, or if you can find an NP 205 from an old F series truck from the 70's era, or go with an atlas. I went with the dana 20 cause I had one, and later got a 205 for my other truck. The dana 20 is the lightest of all tcases, as well as the smallest. I'm building a doubler setup with a 1356 and the 20, and combined my setup will be shorter than most single tcases produced, allowing me to run my stock fuel tank un-modified...Hope this info helps...
SVT

The Mustang is an auto. That means the computer should be an A9P, not an A9L. Not much difference.

 

[RangerSVT]

The Mustang is an auto. That means the computer should be an A9P, not an A9L. Not much difference.

Didn't realize it was auto, but it will still work with the setup he wants to go with...
SVT