• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

slider pic requests


Depends on how much you gusset them and how much your truck weighs... Dropping my truck on mine made them move about a 1/2" or so.
 
Anyone know how much the sliders deflect up when a jackall (highlift) is put under them?

Mine are being fabbed up and shipped to me, so I'll just have to make them work once they get here...

Length is going to be the biggest thing...

Mine dont deflect at all, I have my rockers cut, and I just butted my sliders right up to the bottom... Kinda has a triangulation effect, and keeps my frame from twisting.
 
Those high lift things are sweet! I'll probably make one, after I. Buy a high lift...

I'll account for 1/2" deflection, and give it an extra 1/4 inch of safety area
 
i'm very likely going to be getting a set of sliders for my truck in the next month or so... there's a group buy on my local toyota forum (i'm the blacksheep) for them, and i'll most likely end up caving to the pressure and get a set for my ranger...

what i want from you guys, those who HAVE sliders, especially on the newer body style trucks, is pics of the driver's side frame rail and the mounting of them, specifically how it lines up with the e-brake cable... a few other pics wouldn't hurt, just to help me decide ;)

What's the point? We all know you don't wheel your shit Weez. It's too clean.:thefinger:


-Jester
 
lol oh?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMu7MXW-ckY

the silver sport trac is my buddy's, the *ahem* brown ranger is mine, and the toyota is this kid we went out with... who didn't believe in airing down or recovery straps...
 
Looks like yer Torsen was working well there.....not.
 
been replaced since then, same time my syncros were replaced, because a dealership, that shall remain nameless, couldn't figure out how to diagnose a packed up clutch... i had to spend an entire day convincing them it wasn't working also...
 
I've forgotten what wheelin without lockers was like.

Thanks weezl, now I remember :icon_twisted:
 
Pfft, think playin' in a puddle is wheeling. Goofy Canadians, eh?:thefinger:


-Jester

Question is, did you even air down at all? Sure doesn't look like it..........lol we're just given you a hard time buddy.
 
God damn phone, had a long reply typed out, and it didn't send...

Yes I air down, that I think was at 16-18 psi, though yesterday a 15 I was just digging holes in the 2 feet of hard packed so I aired down to 11ish, and it made a huge difference, tires were just starting to bulge too!

And as for the diffs, that bid essentially has menwirh open diffs, though now I am running a functional torsen in the rear
 
You must have some metric E-rated tires if you took them all the way down to 11 before noticing bulging.

Heck at 18 psi a C-rated tire like mine are damn near flat looking lol. Thats what I usually go down to, and that is plenty. If I needed more I'd consider going down to no less than 14.

Seems the E and D rated metric tires are practically run flats these days (especially Toyo M/Ts) and you have to let a whole lot of air out before they will conform to the terrain. This is good and bad, means the carcass is heavy but they are more puncture and tear resistant. I've seen people unzip BFG muds on roots before. Very easy to do with a C rated tire.

My dad has some super swampers, and he as to air out to about 8psi before he notices and advantages to full psi (35).
 
ok, there's a lot of people wanting to go with stubbswelding.com's sliders, can anyone tell me what's so much better about them, vs say trail gear, or marlin sliders?

the trail gear and marlin sliders are about half the price of the stubbs ones also, which really makes me want to go with the the cheaper...
 
ok, there's a lot of people wanting to go with stubbswelding.com's sliders, can anyone tell me what's so much better about them, vs say trail gear, or marlin sliders?

the trail gear and marlin sliders are about half the price of the stubbs ones also, which really makes me want to go with the the cheaper...

I don't know, how 'bout you post some links so I can take a look. But I'm betting it has to do with the tube material, say DOM vs. HREW. That or material thickness.

-Jester
 
Stubbs Welding:
http://stubbswelding.com/page2.html
i'm looking at the HD-SKO's they are 1.75"x0.125" doesn't state what grade of metal, but i am 99% sure it is USA steel waiting to hear back a price for the final product, but i'm estimating it around $355 (same as another set they make for a tacoma with the same wheel base) he told me he wouldn't charge me for custom work, only for the materials used, supposed to hear back from him today, but i doubt it at this point...

Trail Gear:
http://www.trail-gear.ca/default.cfm?fa=products&prodcategoryid=16
i'm looking at the $186 78" ones, with an additional gusset set, they are made of 1.75"x.120 HREW chinese steel

Marlin Crawler:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/armor/side/rock-slider
looking at the 78" $169 set, made out of 1.75"x0.120" USA steel, however it doesn't state the grade of USA steel

guy i know has a front and rear bumper from trail gear, made out of the same 0.120" china steel, and says it's incredibly strong, and held up to a good hard hit on the front doing like 50 mph into a concrete barrier...
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top