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slider pic requests


so why slotted cross drilled then?

parking brake shouldn't get that hot...

For show lol.

Mine clears just fine since my e brake cable is sitting in a landfill somewhere.
 
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That's exactly like the ones I'm gonna whip up. I need sliders my gf needs a step. Its a win win situation

That'll be enough step?
If I whipped those up and told my girl thats her new step (currently have stock running boards) she would shoot me...
 
Here are mine. The drivers side was a biotch. I decided to make the mounting plate one continuous sheet, and that way I could put a bolt wherever there was room. Then I drilled holes and cut out slots for all the electronic crap that bolts to the inside of the frame rail.

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i like that plate idea! though i think i'm just going to end up getting these welded to the frame...

these are the exact pics i was hoping for
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thanks for the pics guys! here's what i'm looking at getting...

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made by stubbs welding (www.stubbswelding.com)
 
those look great, id just be concerned about the length of the frame supports, if you look at legoms' sliders the pate on the frame is slightly curved, so youll just want to make sure they start out long enough for your longest leg from slider to frame. i hope that made sense?
 
Here is mine... They are on a B2 so they have to be mounted a bit different than the rangers. I beefed up the body mounts and bolted the sliders to them. Only thing I might change adding tubing to the outside... last weekend I got into a stump slightly and barely pushed the door in, it was the same stump that totally wiped out my last door, so the sliders definately helped, just not enough. Either way, they are very strong, and the weak link is the frame rail twisting, but I can jack the whole side of the rig up by the slider, so good enough.

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yeap, made perfect sense, the frame's not straight, so make sure that when i trim the legs for the shorter sections, that the entire slider's not under the truck...

i did some emailing last night, and got a reply today... very professional, very polite...

my email:
hello, i'm currently interested in buying a set of your sliders for my ford ranger, and want to know a few things, just so that i can make sure they will work on my truck. The ones i'm most interested in are the hd-sko for the 2005+ Tacoma DBLCAB/XCAB shortbed, as the 2005+ xtra cab has a wheel base the closest to my truck (tacoma xtra cab is 127.2" wheel base, my truck is 126" [2007 ford ranger supercab]) additionally, because my e-brake cable runs along the outside of the drivers side frame rail, it will make mounting these sliders tricky, is it possible to purchase them without the feet welded to the arms? I can have them welded on to the arms at a later date, when they are being installed, just to make sure that they line up properly with the frame and body. and my last question for you, is the hd-sko's mentioned above, what is the total length of the slider? just so that i can double check that i have more than enough clearance between my oversized tires

If the sliders will work for my truck, I will be buying them with a group buy, from the CT4WD club in Canada, who has recently contacted you regarding details

thanks in advance,
James

the reply:

Hello James,
I have good news for you. The prices of the sliders basically are
based upon the materials used. What this means for you is that you
know what they would cost for your truck since they are roughly the
same dimensions. Now the good news is that I will build them exactly
the length that you require as well as the leg length & placement of
those legs. It really does not take much extra work to do this, and I
would prefer you to have sliders that fit exactly how they should!
Again this will not cost you anything extra but you will have to
provide me with some basic measurements.
Talk to you soon,
Richard

anyone know the proper length for the sliders, and the leg length and placement?? i figure the normal angle, and even spacing for legs...

i've changed my mind as to which ones to get... these are the ones i'm getting now, depending on prices...

made from 1.75" round tubing, not sure the thickness though
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nice pics there racin! anyone have any idea as to how much clearance i should leave between the slider and the body, for the frame to twist when there is pressure put on the sliders?

or possibly an easy solution to the twisting, like extra cross members or such?
 
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id get measurements for ya but its raining here, basically you just want to measure from the frame rail to the lip of the rocker, thall make sure you have enough material incase the steps are wider than expected and you end up needing to remove some leg material. are there any dimensions overall, such as the distance from the outsides of the parallel tubes?
 
No, none given looks about 6-8", standard sliders for the people who run them around here... Just enough to keep the doors away from the sides of the ruts our trails get...

I'll measure the frame to rocker, and the wheel to week, and what, minus 4" each end?

Tho i guess I could just measure the rocker length (bed side Inc)
 
I just spaced my sliders 1/4" from the bottom of the rocker panels. They don't even come close to touch even at full flex. Though I can tell there is less room there when opposite tires touch, just not enough to contact any where.

The thing that makes them are to build is the fact that the frame rails aren't parallel and they change in elevation as you head towards the bed, once you account for this the rest is a cake walk to fab. An eagle lift makes things very speedy...
 
Anyone know how much the sliders deflect up when a jackall (highlift) is put under them?

Mine are being fabbed up and shipped to me, so I'll just have to make them work once they get here...

Length is going to be the biggest thing...
 

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