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Slave cylinder question


CFranklin

New Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
1
Age
66
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Manual
I have a 2001 ranger...4cyliinder...2wd....does the transmission have to be removed to replace the slave cylinder?
 
Not necessarily, but it makes it a helluva lot easier:icon_thumby:
 
Thank You Sludge
 
Well, you CAN remove the engine instead.

Which is a good idea if there is anything else you need to do to the engine (like an oil pan sealup or replacing core plugs).
 
Just pull the transmission and R&R the slave cylinder. While you're there I highly recommend replacing ALL clutch components so you don't have to pull it for a while.




Allen
 
on this topic i have a 92 4.0 2wd 5 speed and im not sure if the slave is bad/leaking,or needs bleeding.it went from good clutch to non at all after shutting off truck.checked fluid and resevoir was empty so i filled it.i had good clutch but it went again,resevoir was low but not empty.theres no fluid under the truck??i dont have the garage setup for pullin trannies so good news/suggestions please
 
The fluid has to go somewhere...does the under part of the car look oily behind the trans? Kinda doesn't matter, unless theres a leak at the master cylinder, or the quick connect at the top of the bell housing, the slave is the only other place it can leak and it's tranny pullin time to change it. But on the bright side...it's really not that hard to do...and you get to know your truck so much better...
 
Oh yeah...definitely agree with doing the whole clutch job if yer gonna swap out a slave unit...
 
right on boys,thanks i kinda figured as much,thought the rear main seal was gone but prob the slaves whats doin it.(or both)the guy i bought it off said he put a new clutch and pressure plate but not the slave.so after i get the part(do i need gaskets or seals?),can this be done in the driveway?how high does the truck need to be for clearance.(its 2wd but new coils and 29" all terrains)sorry bout all the questions but this will be a first for me and i dont want any major surprises,so far sounds fairly simple
 
I usually do it in the driveway, but sometimes at the curb in front of the house....I usually put the front end up on jackstands, plenty of room to get it out and back in, no seals or gaskets necessary, pull the trans, unbolt the bellhousing, swap the slave, bolt it all back together...
 
couple of pointers,try to take out the master cylinderwith the line intact to the trans,bleed it by hand when you get you new slave in,these r a pain in the ass to bleed wish I would have bled it as a whole while it was out and unbolt your exhaust and the y pipe coming off the engine you will need this out of the way to get the tranny out,I discovered this when the tranny was part way out and ended up with tranny and exhaust tangled together
 
Is there a y-pipe on a 4cyl? I thought it just came down one side. Interesting...to do my clutch, I had to pull the exhaust on my 90 Ranger but not on my 86 B2...both 2.9s, pulled the Bronco apart 4 or 5 times now and have never busted the exhaust loose. Now I need to raise that motor to swap the oil pump, and can't get them rascals loose at all.
 
No, 4bangers don't have Y-pipes.

I tried it both ways on a 1986 Bronco II with a 2.9L. It is FAR easier to install the transmission with the Y-pipe and cat removed. And mine were BADLY frozen; took 4 hours with an impact to get them out. I replaced them with stainless and chased the manifold threads, and it sure was easier after that.
 
I use 3/8 All thread when I put the tranny back in. Place 2 pieces on either side of the motor where the tranny bolts to, then just line the tranny to the all thread and you have instant very long guide pins to line the tranny up the very first time.
 

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