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skyjacker part number or website


maroon ranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2008
Messages
190
Age
35
City
East Helena, Montana
Vehicle Year
1994 4.0L proje
Transmission
Manual
As the title indicates. I need the part number for the radius arm brackets and transmission cross member that sky jacker uses on their extended radius arm suspensions for the ford ranger. Hell if someone is even selling one themselves get ahold of me right now! Thank you for the help in advance!
 
Damn! *cringes*

That would be that part number!

On another note, I have a pair of arms and TTB drop brackets in my garage. They are painted blue, but are genuine Skyjacker. I have the cross member & brackets on my truck already.

PM me if you're interested.
 
What's the cringe about? The price?

Also, just the arms or the crossmember too?

Either way, pics if the op doesn't want them?
 
That price!

It would be the arms and the TTB brackets. I'll post pics of it for both the OP and you, Senor. This isn't my for sale thread lol /thread jack. :D
 
IMG_20140902_214428_zpsa8d47ead.jpg
 
You can see where I painted over the red from 10 years ago.
 
No I don't need the arms I need the transmission cross member and radius arm mounts that those arms would come with. Not the drop mounts but........you know what I mean. Hahaha
 
If a guy already had drop brackets from a rough country lift for the radius arms could you run extended arms?
 
you could, but castor would be off... a lot. just put the brackets back to stock location and ditch the drop brackets.
 
So If I put the crossmember bracket back to stock I could run the extended arms
 
Yes. However, the new radius arm location will be where the transmission cross-member is located.

Here is the procedure you will need to do (or eaaaasily pay someone to do.

There are 3 rivets on your outside frame rail where your transmission cross-member is attached. That is where your radius arm brackets will need to be placed to retain original geometry.

1) Remove x-member by drilling or grinding off the rivets. Take not of locations and measurements in relation to the front axle.

2) Get 2"x4" box steel, cut it, and run it on your frame rails, inside the C-channel. Drill 2 holes per side, using grade 8 hardware to secure the new member to the frame. It provides transmission support and frame rigidity.

3) Weld the stock radius arm brackets to the outside of the frame.

4) If you want to add optional 2" spring lift or more, now is the time to do it.

It sounds simple, but is still a tedious task. If you can't weld, take it to a friend who can or a shop.



The extended radius arms are way superior to stock drop brackets and stock arms.

This is NOT flex. lol This is WITHOUT the extended radius arms, and just the stock arms and Trailmaster drop brackets for the RA.

20130803_111814_zps135c8ddc.jpg



At this point, I'm not pushing to make a sale. I'm informing you what is required if you want to run simply the longer arms. Also, I'm showing you that my TTB doesn't flex well, but I sitll wheel it anyways. The picture has 3" RA drop brackets, SJ 6" springs, and stock length RA.
 
ADDITIONAL NOTE: Destroyer, CheapThrills, B2, Gwaii, and plenty of other members get these TTB setups to flex like a contortionist at a $5 Freak Show.

I am not one of those people. This is my second Ranger. It would have flexxed better had I actually installed the arms on this green Ranger. I'm doing a D44 SAS, and I've had those arms for a decade.
 

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