Simple mods to do on my new to me Ranger

[Saf36]

Hi guys, I got my 95 Ranger Xlt 2.3 5 speed with 98k on it. I got her for 1500 off a guy that just used it as a light work truck around the house. Suprisingly it’s got very little rust, it runs and rides very well for a old truck. I’m only 15 at the moment so I still got a couple of months till I get my permit. So far I have changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter. My dad told me not to cheap out on oil so I got Synthetic Mobil 1 5w30 and filter. I have also bought new head lights and tail lights with black accents that look really nice. Also, got a black billet grill. Also I have done some other simple mods to the engine, I did a muffler delete so it’s got 2.5 inch pipe straight from the catalytic converter. I have also put on a eBay cold air intake I doubt it really added much power buts sounds and looks great. Sorry for being so long winded I’m just really exited to have this truck as my first Vehicle.

 

[Dirtman]

Welcome! You made a great choice on your first vehicle!

Now prepare for the let down... Lol

Put the stock intake back on... The factory system was already a real cold air intake with more flow than the engine could use. That aftermarket thing is just going to screw things up. Especially if it's one of those ghetto cheap ones that just has a "cone" air filter on the end. At best it gained no power, more than likely your loosing power and screwing up the maf sensor in the process.

Same with the muffler... If your just trying to make the truck loud, have at it. But you've accomplished nothing as far as power.

Not ragging on you, just basic facts

 

[19Walt93]

I agree with Dirtman, maybe for different reasons. I've seen MAF sensors and in a few cases, engines ruined by dust that got through "performance" air filters. If you put the factory airbox back in it's best to use Motorcraft filters because they fit. A local town spent $15,000 a few years ago because the CARQUEST air filters they were using fit poorly and allowed enough dust to get through to destroy the diesel engine so Ford denied the claim. When the turbo fins are eroded on the edges( called dusted) it means dirty intake air. As for the muffler, please don't give the police an extra reason to stop a new driver. At least in NH, any ticket while on your first license causes it to be revoked and when you get it back your insurance company will punish you again.

 

[adsm08]

If you want actual, usable, function modifications that you can do, look into installing an Explorer over head console.

If you are looking for power and performance, those are two words that don't go in the same sentence with cheap or easy.

 

[Saf36]

thanks for the info guys I put in a pic of the intake it’s built pretty well in my opinion, it defiantly gave me more bottom end power.

 

[adsm08]

That intake kit isn't worth what you paid for shipping. It deleted the factory cold air intake and replaced it with hot air, costing you power across the board.

 

[Saf36]

Gotcha, does anyone know how often the dif fluid should get changed?

 

[adsm08]

Do it now so you know when it was done. Then I do mine every 75-100K miles, or if I get the axle under water.

 

[Dirtman]

That intake makes me cringe lol. You are now sucking in air directly from under the hood. Not only that... on the exhaust manifold side. There's nothing cold about that! The factory airbox sucked air in from in front of the truck, isolated from the engine compartment.

 

[pjtoledo]

to the original poster,,,it's not that we want to "rain on your parade",,and kill the fun. rather we are doing you a favor by telling you a storm is coming.

have fun with your new truck, even in the rain. speaking of rain, old tires of any kind are lousy in the rain.

 

[Dirtman]

to the original poster,,,it's not that we want to "rain on your parade",,and kill the fun. rather we are doing you a favor by telling you a storm is coming.

have fun with your new truck, even in the rain. speaking of rain, old tires of any kind are lousy in the rain.

We were all young and I dare anyone to say they didn't do insane stuff to their first vehicle that you can't look back on now and say is dumb.

Kids will be kids.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I think the best thing you could do right now is go over the truck with a fine tooth comb. You asked the right question about oil, now check the other fluids. Most people are pretty lax about upkeep, I know I was before I learned. So;
-Get a small book to keep track of all your maintenance, it will help you save money. Keep it in the glove box. Alternately, use a felt and write what you did and when somewhere under the hood. On the rad support is what I use. Example; 10w30 Feb/2019
-Rad fluid should be changed out every couple years. The rust inhibitors get used up even if the truck is sitting.
-The brake fluid should be flushed out every few years. Brake fluid likes to absorb moisture from the air and then stuff fails. Start at the tire farthest away from the master cylinder. That will be the passenger side rear. Then you go in order of next farthest and so on. It's an old truck, there is the likely hood of twisting off a bleeder valve. Better now than when you need it for work.
- Top up the windshield wiper fluid.
- If it's an automatic, warm up the engine for 10 minutes in park and check the dipstick while it's running.. It should be a clear red. You could also check before running and put a slight mark on the dipstick, this way you will know where it should be when cold and not running.
- If 4x4, check the transfer case fluid.
- Find out how to check and change the differential fluid. The front too if 4x4.
- Check all the u-joints. Make sure the truck is blocked so it can't roll back or forward. Put the trans in nuetral and get under and see if you can twist the drive shaft back and forth compared to the opposite of the shaft, [the u-joint is in the middle of your two hands]. If there is ANY movement back and forth change the u-joint. If 4x4 there are two more u-joints on the front drive shaft and one on the drivers side drive axle and two on the passenger side axle
- Check your brakes. Take the drums off and look at the shoes, there should be at least 1/8" of friction material left. On the front you can see into the caliper by removing the tire. also should have at least 1/8" of lining left. The front wears out twice as fast as the back.
- Check over your front end and steering. Have somebody in the truck slowly turning the front wheel back and forth. Look at all the joints, there should be no movement between two pieces in relation to each other. Check the steering column for slop too. The rag joint can disintegrate.

Anything I forgot I'm sure someone else will help.

 

[Saf36]

alwaysFlOoReD Yeah I have not even thought about changing the coolant and brake fluid, I’ll get it done tommorow along with rear axle fluid. Btw my trucks a 2wd 5 speed. Does anyone recommend what brand and what viscostly axle fluid I should use ?

 

[Saf36]

Here’s a pic of my truck

 

[Ranger850]

That Cold air intake you got there does look kool under the hood, but as already stated, it ain't doin squat. You've got the right idea, but wrong approach. As teens we learned about CAI thought "every car should have this". Most do from the factory, they just don't look as cool as the aftermarket ones. Search this place for anything you think you want to do because some one has probably tried already. Keep up the hard work and you will get it where you want it