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Should I??


CopyKat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
Messages
2,274
City
Manitoba, Coldest place in Canada
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
I'm really thinking about it. I just like the fact that my cab is sealed good right now.
 

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Do it?

Looks like it is already done, and it is bad-ass!

I say do it, but just seal the holes with some tight fitting weather stripping.

How much mudding do you do?
 
na you should cantalever the shock! that way the cab is still sealed and you get max travel :icon_thumby:
 
As long as you don't cut the holes too big, you can do the shocks and then reseal the holes.
 
na you should cantalever the shock! that way the cab is still sealed and you get max travel :icon_thumby:

I've looked at that and I can't do it without removing and replacing lots of other parts. The fuel tank is in the way so a cell would need to be added. Not likely to find a 72L fuel cell, (Don't want to fill up everyday). The shocks I have are Rancho's and they can't be mounted anything more than +/- 45° from vertical.

That is the only thing about going through the floor like that is to seal it up afterwards. There are alot of gravel roads and well.....winter. So I don't want any gaping holes. The other thing is interior space. The shock mount cage will take up alot of room. Folding the seats down will gain some but the space between the hoops and the sidepanels will be limited.

As it is right now I can fit four 35" tires my gear box and a few other items in the back with the rear seats folded down. Now with the cage back there that would be severly hindered, loosing space.
 
na you should cantalever the shock! that way the cab is still sealed and you get max travel :icon_thumby:

Hey you have any pics of the Cantalever system. I would like to see it. thinking of going a little further with my truck but still want my bed intackt. Hey when you coming back down and do you still want to trade the rear ends?
 
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Hey you have any pics of the Cantalever system. I would like to see it. thinking of going a little further with my truck but still want my bed intackt. Hey when you coming back down and do you still want to trade the rear ends?

:annoyed:

Search on Dezertrangers.com. This topic has been been beaten to death.
 
Hey you have any pics of the Cantalever system. I would like to see it. thinking of going a little further with my truck but still want my bed intackt. Hey when you coming back down and do you still want to trade the rear ends?

Ill be back down on the 18-19 and yes i sure do! Ill PM ya when the weekend gets closer so we can figure everything out. I know Lilwhiteranger wants to have a meet that weekend as well.

:annoyed:

Search on Dezertrangers.com. This topic has been been beaten to death.

Yeah, nor can they ever agree to disagree ya know
 
I think those shocks at the wrong angle. Shouldn't they be angled forward to make them perpendicular with the axle at full bump?
 
Just to keep it in laymans terms. On a leaf sprung axle the motion of the rear axle during travel is slightley to the rear. Reported to be about a 10° back from vertical. This puts the shock in a 1:1 ratio with the leaf springs. Depending on the link Geometry it's the same way. But it's just easier on a truck to mount them forward. And it's easier yet when you move them down the links to make a 16" travel shock pull 20"+ at the axle.

Just think of the shackles movement under compression. Which way does it move? it moves back and the leaf moves up.

90° at bump isn't always the right way to mount them. On a coilover/bypass setup it might be easier to tune the shocks and easier on the shocks in general.
 
Id do anything necessary to run a cantilever system instead of sacrificing huge amounts of storage space and climate controlled comfort.
 
Id do anything necessary to run a cantilever system instead of sacrificing huge amounts of storage space and climate controlled comfort.

I'm not at the point of sinking that kinda coin into a setup like that.....Yet! I'd have to get myself some smooth body resevoir shocks, just so that i can mount them the way I would need them to fit.

I'm limited with the ranchos I have now.
 
do it man. On my unibody xj i was able to get away with this high clearance hoop.

l4fd63c372fd11f137c07e3em0.jpg

Shot at 2007-12-18



I can still sleep under it when i go camping.

these are 18"s which you make want to think about for performance and clearance. The more shock the better right...



To cover the holes i used neoprene wet suite material. I cut a 1" hole in the material, slide it over the 2.5" shock body and it streched nicely to the point where it was snuggly aggainst the shock, and glued the other portion to the unibody, it works like a charm. You may want to consider doing that to the tube if you want to cut the body and mount it to the frame.

foaizza.jpg

Shot with DSC-T1 at 2009-07-14

foazzle.jpg

Shot at 2009-07-14


made a mock up shock to cycle the suspencion and I only cut the amount away from the body that i'd need for shock movement at all points of the suspension travel. It kept the hole size to a minimum.
foar.jpg

Shot at 2009-07-14

I don't want to hear it about the rust. Its just surface rust, i know i have some wire brushing, grinding and painting to do.
 
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