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should I buy this truck?


YT-1300

Active Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2022
Messages
39
City
Santa Clarita, CA
2004 XLT
-3.0L V-6
-5R44E transmission (I think)
-169K miles
-new catalytic converters. Seller says the old ones were clogged. Is that a thing?
-new shocks
-it has a 2" lift with slightly oversized tires and was filthy (there were dirt clods all over the undercarriage), but the seller did tell me he races motorcycles and so he drives it off road.
-there was what appeared to be oil where the drive shaft goes into the rear differential. Is this an issue I should worry about?
-engine oil appeared clean
-hoses were good
-brake fluid looked dark, but I'm not sure what color it's supposed to be
-I accelerated, then hit the brakes really hard, and it stopped fine, with no swerving, and the brakes didn't lock.
-It was supposedly a fleet truck, then it was bought by the seller, who painted it white over the previous blue color. They did a terrible job, by the way. The seller told me it was $400 extra for the door jambs and bed, so he didn't get those painted. There didn't appear to be any damage, and the seller is a young kid, so maybe he just didn't have the funds. I still wonder if there's something to hide, though.

These issues concern me:
-It slips/shifts hard from 2-3. The seller says it needs some sort of sensor.
-Engine light is on
-O/D light is on

I posted this in the transmission section as well. Please let me know if that's an issue.

It drives fine otherwise.

Should I buy this truck? It will be for my 16 year old son, who will use it to drive around town.
 
You didn't say how much he wants. If is 200 then yes, if its 5k then pass.

IMO, it sounds like a hack owned it and didn't care about it. But that's just me, I'm skeptical about people that think that something is bad.
 
-there was what appeared to be oil where the drive shaft goes into the rear differential. Is this an issue I should worry about?

Wet areas from oil/fluids is always an issue. Has the seller mentioned it?
Like @dvdswan mentioned, price will be key factor. If It's cheep enough to also get parts , go for it. If it's a lot of money, factor in the repair costs, then decide if it's worth it.
As an added precaution, I almost always look for a 2nd vehicle to buy for parts. Untitled and wrecked ones are usually less expensive.
 
Definitely factor in the repair costs to see if it's worth it in your mind. With the check engine light on, there should be diagnostic codes. On your test drive, stop by a parts place and ask them to read the codes.

Your post makes it sound as if you are not really a car guy and not likely to be doing g the repairs yourself. If that is the case, don't buy it unless it is ridiculously cheap, as in just a few hundred dollars. Labor cost for repairs may eat you up on this one.
 
You didn't say how much he wants. If is 200 then yes, if its 5k then pass.

IMO, it sounds like a hack owned it and didn't care about it. But that's just me, I'm skeptical about people that think that something is bad.

The seller is a 17 year old kid. Seemed nice; answered all my questions. I got the impression after talking with him that he just needed a cheap vehicle and this fit the bill. He told me he sold his motorcycle and wants to sell this truck so he can buy a sports car.

He's asking $5,000, but it's not worth that to me. I don't mind getting it fixed, either, I just want to know what the worst-case scenario is. It appears a new tranny is $3000. Blue book appears to be in the $3900-$5100 range for fair condition.
 
Wet areas from oil/fluids is always an issue. Has the seller mentioned it?
Like @dvdswan mentioned, price will be key factor. If It's cheep enough to also get parts , go for it. If it's a lot of money, factor in the repair costs, then decide if it's worth it.
As an added precaution, I almost always look for a 2nd vehicle to buy for parts. Untitled and wrecked ones are usually less expensive.

He didn't mention it, but he may not have known. If it's wet from an easily-replaced seal, that's one thing, but if it's wet from something that's wrecked, that's another. I'm just trying to see what others might know. How would I tell what's causing it? I can get under the truck and wipe it and see where it's coming from.
 
Definitely factor in the repair costs to see if it's worth it in your mind. With the check engine light on, there should be diagnostic codes. On your test drive, stop by a parts place and ask them to read the codes.

Your post makes it sound as if you are not really a car guy and not likely to be doing g the repairs yourself. If that is the case, don't buy it unless it is ridiculously cheap, as in just a few hundred dollars. Labor cost for repairs may eat you up on this one.

I can borrow a code reader and look up the codes. I'm hoping I can look them up and see what the repair involves, or tell a mechanic what they are and get a rough estimate.

I'm not a Ford Ranger guy, but I have done work (tune-up, oil changes, transmission flush, brakes) on my Chevy Silverado and Porsche 914. I can do simple repairs, but I don't have the time to do anything complex. I have pulled my 914 tranny and engine, but that car is really easy.
 
The error code is P0715: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction

Is this expensive or indicative of a major problem?
That sensor requires the transmission to be removed and partially disassembled to be replaced.
 
5k is way to much for what you are describing the truck looks and feels like
 
5k is way to much for what you are describing the truck looks and feels like

I agree. This is for my 16-year-old son, so it doesn't have to be pretty, but it does need to work.

The seller stated he didn't have time to fix the sensor, but he probably found out it's not cheap and decided to sell the truck. He's been very cooperative with me so far.

I may have to bail on this one and keep looking.
 
Bail, unless the seller changes his price to something like $1K instead of $5K. You'll thank us later.

Several years ago, long before the used-vehicle market got crazy, several people out here would ask the going rate for Rangers, but the sign on the truck would say it needed a head gasket (this was most common on V-6s). That's $thousands worth of work, but the sellers were still trying to get full price. Yeah, sure. Fix the truck right first, then ask the full price.
 
Bail, unless the seller changes his price to something like $1K instead of $5K. You'll thank us later.

Several years ago, long before the used-vehicle market got crazy, several people out here would ask the going rate for Rangers, but the sign on the truck would say it needed a head gasket (this was most common on V-6s). That's $thousands worth of work, but the sellers were still trying to get full price. Yeah, sure. Fix the truck right first, then ask the full price.

Yeah, I was thinking I might offer something around $1000 so I have money to fix it. I'm pretty sure the seller won't take it, but it can't hurt to ask.

I'll thank you all now! :) That's why I joined the site!
 
You are going to spend $2k to have the transmission rebuilt, because to change that sensor you have to r/r the trans and pull have the guts out of it. Since you are already doing nearly all the labor of a rebuild, you choose to spend $300 more to buy the parts to do a rebuild.

I have seen a few vehicles that the engine managed to destroy cats even though the pcm thought it was running correctly, so there is a chance that the cat will be clogged again in a year.

I would pass on this one and keep looking.
 
My biggest factor is that it passes SMOG check. Besides that sounds like seller is being honest....and it is a good truck, just kinda beat.
169k miles of street and dirt with a bike in the back most of time, is a lot... not just for the engine, but the rest of the truck too.
From what you describe. If it passes smog and clear title in hand, I would pay maybe $2500 max if at least looks and runs decent. He could probably get more $$ because of the used car market and ranger hype right now, but not from me.
PS yes cats go bad, usually around 100k miles, more or less.
 

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