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Shot Carburetor?


It looks just like the 2150.

Also, I am a rookie. A complete rookie when it comes to mechanics. Not so much when it comes to wiring and taking things apart. But that's one of the reason's there are sites like this one, right? Haha. The throttle doesn't wiggle around, though.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm gonna take out the carb, and attempt to rebuild it. I was told by a mechanic friend that that should be enough, as long as I get it back to the right settings.
 
What about getting a non-feedback 2150 and using the Chrysler ignition box?

That feedback system on those is terrible. Here are some of the things the engine controller is connected to: choke heater relay; EGR vent solenoid; thermactor air diverter solenoid; thermactor air bypass solenoid; throttle position sensor; EGR valve position sensor; knock sensor; idle speed motor; vacuum switch assembly; exhuast gas sensor; fuel control solenoid; barometric pressure sensor; piece of shit TFI ignition module

How much of that stuff still works? Is the carb you have bad, or is some combination of malfunctioning bits causing the computer to give the carb bad instructions? Or all of the above? That is the worst engine control system I've ever seen. Most of what is on there is a crutch. You don't need a choke and a thermactor system or an EGR (yours is probably stuck open or closed and the solenoids associated with it probably don't work anyway) to make an engine run and pass 1984 emissions. With the 4.0 and it's mass-air system, they took all of that stuff off. It's the same EEC-IV, just used smarter. All of the things connected to the computer in a '91 4.0 are sensors or actuators. The stuff on your engine is designed to fail and I wouldn't spend a dime trying to pee on one tree when the entire damn forest is likely ablaze.
 
Honestly, I not even sure what half that stuff is. I was told by the mechanic that owned it before me that it was the carb. That's all he told me. How much would it cost to get her running right again then? Cause it sounds to me like I have to buy a bunch of parts.
 
Yea the link for the rebuild will give you an idea what to do. Just take your time your carb has a few more parts, note where the accelerator pump linkage is when you take it apart and how the springs inside the pump are. If you put it back together the way you took it apart the only adjustments you will need are the idle air screws and the wet float level. turn the idle air in to lightly seated and then out three turns pre adjustment to start it. Then we can help you dial it in. GL
 
The carb kit is all you really need for now. Then if you still have problems you will have a good carb to do the duraspark conversion. New the dizzy and module will cost about $120 unless you can find a donor late 70s pinto or mustang II with a 2.8 has all the parts you need including the carb 2150 non feedback. Just use the stock coil you have now. The wiring is real simple you can eliminate all the wires on the engine and that maze of vacuum lines. as long as you dont need to pass emissions.
 
You can also do the metering block mod to the feedback 2150 for next to nothing. Pretty much bypasses the computerized part of it and makes it opperate the same as a non-feedback 2150.

Check out the 2.8 forum, it should be in there somewhere.

The blue grommet module is as common as dirt, I got one out of a '80's F-150 with a 300 in a JY for about $8. Basically if it is a duraspark module with a blue grommet, it works reguardless of what it is out of.
 
Alright. Got a couple more questions. What are the module and dizzy? And what's the difference between feedback and non-feedback?
 
Honestly, I not even sure what half that stuff is. I was told by the mechanic that owned it before me that it was the carb. That's all he told me. How much would it cost to get her running right again then? Cause it sounds to me like I have to buy a bunch of parts.

If he was a mechanic and knew what the problem was, why didn't he fix it. My guess is that he was making an optimistic guess.

A feedback carb just means the fuel is able to be adjusted by the computer, which uses measurements from sensors to decide how much fueling it needs. The O2 sensor is the primary player--the computer adjust the fuel, gets feedback from the sensor about what happened downrange, and it adjusts it again. The other sensors are used in the decision, but the ECM isn't watching them for changes. For instance, if the throttle position sensor is open, the computer doesn't try to close it. Or if the atmospheric pressure is one thing, the computer isn't trying to make it another thing. The O2 sensor, the computer IS watching it, seeing where it is and trying to move it to where it should be by adjusting the fuel control solenoid. The carb itself has nothing to do with feedback--it's a feedback system that controls it.

Just from looking at a diagram of the carb, it looks like the fuel control solenoid may control the pressure in the float chamber. The difference in pressure on either side of the main jets is what ultimately decides how much fuel flows through them. Putting a plate over the fuel control solenoid holes should make it into a normal carb IF the flaot chamber is vented to atmosphere AND the jets are correct for an atmosphere in the float chamber. Another thing I see in this diagram is something they call a temperature compensated pump. It looks like fuel from the accelerator pump flows through this thing on it's way to the shooters. It may be to protect the catalytic converter from too much raw fuel, or to give it more raw fuel when it's cold to heat it up more quickly. Whatever the case, it point to the stupidty of the entire system--computer controlling something with a pump on it that squirts in raw fuel.

A non-feedback carb doesn't exist. It's just a regular carb that meters fuel the old fashioned way via pressure differences in the venturi and various ports which are valved by the position of the throttle plate. The Weber I suggested is adjustable in every way. Once you take the computer out of the system on that feed-back 2150, what parts are available to tune it to run right without the computer? I see an enrichment valve in the diagram--how is that set up to work with the fuel control solenoid? It has a hose coming off of it, it looks like? Does it vent into the fuel control solenoid controlled float chamber? What happens when you vent it to atmosphere? On a Holley, you can screw in different power valves to kick the enrichment in at different manifold pressures. Is that enrichment valve supposed to see manifold pressure? How can you adjust it?

You can't tune that crappy thing. A Weber or even a Holley you can tune all three stages of fueling: idle, transition and main circuits, plus you can tune the accelerator pump volume and duration. All that 2150 has is a blocked off idle mixture screw that doesn't do anything above an idle anyway.

The ignition box I suggested is $30 from Jegs. It will control any ignition that has a magnetic trigger. It has 4 wires: two to the leads from the pickup, a power lead with full voltage, and a wire to the negative terminal on the coil. It does the same thing as the junkyard module does, and probably doesn't do it any better. It's not magic and it doesn't matter that it's not a Ford part. It's only job is to saturate the primary windings in the coil more thoroughly and accurately than a set of bouncing breaker points. i would like to see what the magnetic pickup looks like, and maybe see an ohmeter reading across the leads just to make sure there isn't anything unusual with your distributor.

If you do change the carb, or disable the fuel control system, leave the O2 sensor in there and hook an ohmeter to it. It will be useful in tuning it.
 
Alright. Got a couple more questions. What are the module and dizzy? And what's the difference between feedback and non-feedback?

Dizzy is slang for distributor, it is quicker to type and say.

Module is the little brain box that controls the ignition.

Any store that calls itself auto parts store has a module in stock for about any price you want to pay.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...ap?year=1979&make=Ford&model=F-150&vi=1121016

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.html

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/DurasparkII.html

Here is how I wired mine, three wires to play with and I reused the stock coil.

2915150080_large.jpg
 
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The way the feedback carb works is the feedback solenoid controls the amount of air bleed going into the venturi booster. On a regular carb there is fixed orifice or a variable air bleed in the top of the venturi booster. The more air the leaner the mix and vise versa. If you unplug the feedback solenoid the carb will run rich. The carb on the link i gave you is a 2150 with the variable air bleed. The two needles on the top of the venturi booster are lifted up when you open the throttle giving it more air leaning out the fuel mix in the venturi.
 
If you're a rookie at working on carbs, let me offer this tip....
It's really easy to drop stuff down the inside of the carb or once you have it off, down the hole it sat on. And then it can be really tough to get out of the engine, if you're lucky enough to know about it when something does get dropped in. So - as soon as you take off the air cleaner - stuff a shop towel into the carb to keep stuff from falling in. The instant the carb is removed from the manifold, stuff a shop towel into the hole to keep anything from getting dropped into the manifold.

Oh, and in case your rebuild kit doesn't include a float - be sure to check that your float hasn't developed a leak and has 1/2 filled up with gas.

Good luck, I'm sure you will do fine. Carbs are pretty simple mostly and not very touchy about adjustments.:icon_cheers:
 

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