Shocks and drop

[JoshT]

Hey folks,

I'm goingto do the drop beams on the front of my 84, have them sitting here just gotta finish putting ball joints and get a place to do the swap. I was planing to do the shackle/hangar flip in the rear. The plan is to install new springs all round while I've got it apart.

The Questions:

With the shackle flip do I need drop shocks? IIRC it's only a two inch drop so I'm thinking stock will work.

Has anyone run the Edelbrock IAS Performer shocks on their truck? I'm thinking about running these on all four corners. Since I can get all 4 for just over $100, vs about $100 ea. from Summit Racing (closest place I've found to buy them) I want to jump on the deal if they are good.

 

[Hazmat Ranger]

Sounds like a good plan so far. I do not know about the shocks so can't help you there. But just flipping shackles will not require shocks. Now if do the axle and shackles then you will need shocks in the rear.

Good Luck - let's see some pics before and after.

 

[JoshT]

The actual drop is still a little ways off. I really need to get a shop built before tearing into the front end on the truck. Got the trees cut down, just need to remove the stumps, pour concrete and get the building put up.

I Really don't want to go low in the rear. Iam actually only after 1-2 inches and a little more rake. Guessing that with new springs that's all I'll get.

As for needing new shocks, I know they won't be necessar but I want to take out the Gabriel Hi-Jackers. They were great for load management, but not for ride.

 

[rngr_drvr]

try stylintrucks.com . They have DJM drop kits and shocks matched to each kit. DJM has a 4/3 kit that includes rear flip,c-notches,u-bolts, i-beams, shims,hardware and bump stops. the shocks are sold seperately, but DJM makes the shocks specificly to each kit. you can drop even further by changing your springs to something like a 7/6 drop. I did mine with DJM from Stylin on my '01. it took 3 days of casual time at work. the instuctions (what are those?) are pretty clear if you need them and all parts are labeld by part number

 

[JoshT]

Thanks but way wrong year model truck, I already have beams for the front, and I don't want to drop near that much. Just interested in experiences with the IAS shocks, and if I needed shorter shocks for a 2" drop on the rear.

I prefer slightly lowered with rake to slammed and level, just personal preference.

 

[slammedxonair]

I think its gona have a huge rake to it. I really haven't heard of anybody running the IAS shocks anymore, I know alot of explorer guys used to run them a while back though. But doetsch nitro slammers FTW!

 

[JoshT]

3" front 2" in the back so the back will be 2-3 inches higher than the front, I don't think it will be too bad. If I need more drop on the back I could always install a 1 or 2 inch lifting shackle considering the new orientation of the rear hangar. On top of that once I get a wider axle for the rear and new wheels, I will be putting larger wider tires on the back than on the front. I think it will have a stance kinda like an old school muscle car, which IMO it the best looking stance ever created for a 2wd.

Considering the price I think I'm going to get them. If they don't work out I can put them up on E-bay and hopefully get most of my money back.

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

I prefer slightly lowered with rake to slammed and level, just personal preference.

see I prefer the slammed with a rake look. My truck would probably sit close to level if I ran the same size tires front and rear. I have 225/60/15 up front and 275/60/15 out back. It gives it a nice rake and while my tires don't really "tuck", the truck has an awesome look to it.

James

 

[JoshT]

This is almost exactly what I want to build as far as looks go.

I want slightly lower on the front, more stock interior, no tub on the rear, Manual transmission and EFI. I would keep my current paint scheme I think, loose the hood scoops in favor of a cowl induction hood, keep the bed mostly stock, install a flush tonneau cover, and keep the rear step bumper. The 289 would have to go in favor of a well built 302 based stroker motor, and possibly forced induction. I'm also not interested in 4-linking the rear.

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

That is a nice looking Gen I for sure. Hell of a lot of money for a Gen I though. I would have to agree with you on the hood and the tubs. I did some measuring on my truck and a 12" tire could fit with the right offset. I couldn't see needing more then that on something I would want to be able to drive daily if I had to.

I would have taken that interior a different direction I think. I think I would have gone more sparse and kept it to a min. of what was actually in there. Mine is painted with red tweed on certain parts. I was driving mine daily when I did it to, but even with it sitting I still love the look for now. I am currently working on putting gauges in where my heater vents were above the radio (first time working with fiberglass).

The ladder bars would have to go. They are more for straight line running. A 4-link would give better control for the twisties. That's where I love to run. Straight line is fun but taking turns at speed is GREAT.

That truck looks pretty high to me. I'm betting there really isn't much of a drop on it.

James

 

[Yvan]

Me i flipped my housing on rear and i kept the original lenght, and it run very well.