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UNHOOK BATTERYMightyfordranger, I've been in the autobody/refinish field over 35 years, if your going for the floors then get some poster board and make your templates from that, ranger floors are pretty simple somewhat flat with curved edges and a few kicked up areas near the seat mounts. Cut out your rusted areas with what ever you have, 4" angle grinder works well with the cut off wheels, take yor seat out if the rust goes up under the mounts. just remove whats needed. measure your templates about an 1" or 2" larger then you can trim to fit, all this can be done with the poster board just like the steel. steel will be 18 to 20 guage. or scrap sheet metal from an old hood. Once you get a test pan made and it fits, transfer to sheet metal which is not as forgiving but as you tack it into place the heat will soften it and a hammer works to get it into the shape, continue to tack about every few inches, use sheetmetal screws to help get the panel tight together to the old floor joints. Stagger your tack welds around the perimeter to keep heat from warping. Once you satisfied and the floor is stiff, use autobody seam sealer or gutter sealer to seal the seam, and undercoat the underside heavy, rattle can the inside then a light coat on top as well, it drys quick. floors don't have to be pretty, but they should strengthen the repair area. Good luck, this is how we learn!
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Mightyfordranger, I've been in the autobody/refinish field over 35 years, if your going for the floors then get some poster board and make your templates from that, ranger floors are pretty simple somewhat flat with curved edges and a few kicked up areas near the seat mounts. Cut out your rusted areas with what ever you have, 4" angle grinder works well with the cut off wheels, take yor seat out if the rust goes up under the mounts. just remove whats needed. measure your templates about an 1" or 2" larger then you can trim to fit, all this can be done with the poster board just like the steel. steel will be 18 to 20 guage. or scrap sheet metal from an old hood. Once you get a test pan made and it fits, transfer to sheet metal which is not as forgiving but as you tack it into place the heat will soften it and a hammer works to get it into the shape, continue to tack about every few inches, use sheetmetal screws to help get the panel tight together to the old floor joints. Stagger your tack welds around the perimeter to keep heat from warping. Once you satisfied and the floor is stiff, use autobody seam sealer or gutter sealer to seal the seam, and undercoat the underside heavy, rattle can the inside then a light coat on top as well, it drys quick. floors don't have to be pretty, but they should strengthen the repair area. Good luck, this is how we learn!
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