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Several Questions from the New Guy.


adam2kgt

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2008
Messages
24
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I have an 88 Ranger, 2.9 5spd 2wd. I want to swap out to a 4.0 later on, but the 2.9 has to do for now. I will have to replace the clutch soon, and I noticed in another thread it was mentioned to switch to a 4.0 clutch behind a 2.9. Will this only work for the 4.0 tranny? Will a 4.0 really destroy my trans that quick if I keep the stock trans when I swap motors? It has been kinda hard finding 4.0 swap vehicles with a manual trans and 2wd. Any input is greatly appreciated!
 
you should really go to the M5OD (4.0 tranny) when you swap motors, its a huge upgrade. changes are that the 4.0 will make short work of the stock 2.9 trans.
 
In '88 there was an m5od available behind the 2.9 (i've seen lots at the local pick'n'pull) It should hold up just fine to a 4.0. If you need to do a clutch prior to swapping in the 4.0, definately do the 4.0 clutch swap now. There is plenty of info in the tech library on parts you will need.

Do you know for sure what tranny you have in there already? (stamped steel bottom pan = fm132, no bottom pan = m5od)
 
I just went out and checked, the trans in the truck has no bottom pan, has an integral bellhousing with a rubber dust plug on the driver's side back from the starter pocket. So, is this the stronger trans? Give me good news!
 
You've got the Mazda, which is infinitely better than the Mitsu. I, personally, love swapping trannies every 50k miles, so I had the Mitsu. It worked out well for all....
 
Great, so I have a good trans to start with. Anything I can do to help it out? One thing I have noticed is that the trans is kinda stiff to get into gear sometimes, but I just chalked that up to the clutch and slave cylinder being weak. I would love shorter throws for the shifter, but I am guessing that is not going to happen. What fluid should I run, I will be switching to full synthetic soon, probably Royal Purple. Any other tips?
 
one thing about the mazda tranny it is not a good dailly driven tranny[ on free way ] when in 5th gear it draws all the fluid to the back of the tranny and burns up the front gears. it is stronger then the mitsu. the mitsu doesent have that problem but its not as strong.
 
Great, I have the stronger tranny that is not as good for what I use the truck most for! Once I swap in the other axle I will be using 4th more on the interstate, so it won't be as bad. Would using Lucas additive or a full synthetic fluid help the situation any?
 
one thing about the mazda tranny it is not a good dailly driven tranny[ on free way ] when in 5th gear it draws all the fluid to the back of the tranny and burns up the front gears. it is stronger then the mitsu. the mitsu doesent have that problem but its not as strong.

what? this is the first ive ever heard of this. and with so many M5OD's past 200,000 miles, i have a hard time buying it.

your transmission takes ATF dex. III (or dex. IV, which is dex. III with a few more additives). dont try running gear oil, youll burn it up.
 
The only reasons people have for putting any type of additive or thicker fluid in a Mazda trans are either because they don't know that they're not supposed to put gear oil in them or because the trans is on it's last legs and they're just trying to quiet the thing up. The 2.9 Mazda trans is the tougher one as far as what they bolted behind the 2.9 but it IS weaker than a 4.0 trans. It will work behind a 4.0 and it will work just fine if you're not rough on the thing but you could have problems in the future if you like to beat it alot. Just go to the 4.0 clutch/starter so that you have the stuff needed to eventually swap in a 4.0 trans when the time comes but if money is tight you can keep your original transmission for a while.
 
The only reasons people have for putting any type of additive or thicker fluid in a Mazda trans are either because they don't know that they're not supposed to put gear oil in them or because the trans is on it's last legs and they're just trying to quiet the thing up. The 2.9 Mazda trans is the tougher one as far as what they bolted behind the 2.9 but it IS weaker than a 4.0 trans. It will work behind a 4.0 and it will work just fine if you're not rough on the thing but you could have problems in the future if you like to beat it alot. Just go to the 4.0 clutch/starter so that you have the stuff needed to eventually swap in a 4.0 trans when the time comes but if money is tight you can keep your original transmission for a while.

Not trying to start a fight or anything, but how is the 2.9 m50d weaker than the 4.0 m5od? I wasn't aware of any design changes in the construction of the two casings, so aside from a wider gear ratio, what internal parts were inferior in the 2.9 trans?
 
there is no difference.

the only M5OD that has any upgraded parts internally is the M5ODHD used behind the SOHC 4.0's for the past couple years.

i really wish you guys would quite mumbling about his transmission. the M5OD is, beyond a shadow of a doubt, the most reliable transmission used in the rangers. it has no major design flaws, aside from the very minor shift rail leak issue, which is why its been essentially unchanged for the past 20 years.
 
Okay, shift rail leak issue? Whats that? I found out today about it taking ATF, I am working at a Tire and Lube and looked up the lubrication specs for it. I know it recommends dex III or IV, but would a full synthetic Dex compatible fluid help or hurt anything? I am stoked to find out I have the stronger trans, but bummed about the price of 4.0 clutch swap parts. I am going with all new stuff when I do it, cause I don't want to take a chance on anything effin' up anything. Looking at about 400 for the flywheel, clutch, starter, and slave cylinder. New fluid too, of course! Anything I am overlooking? Oh yeah, I have the 4awg wire and terminal ends to run new hot wires already, leftovers from another project.
 
there are 3 rubber plugs that cap off the ends of the shift rails that are notorois for leaking fluid. its not a problem if you dont let the trans run dry, and its easy to fix with some silicone or freeze plugs.
 
one thing about the mazda tranny it is not a good dailly driven tranny[ on free way ] when in 5th gear it draws all the fluid to the back of the tranny and burns up the front gears. it is stronger then the mitsu. the mitsu doesent have that problem but its not as strong.

I'll just Say "Huh?"

How the hell did you come up with that?

The gears all spin the same way regardless of what gear you are in.

because the gears are "constant mesh" the only thing that changes is which gear is locked to the output shaft (though technically 5th and reverse lock onto the counter gear the gears they drive are SPLINED to the output shaft already)

The only difference between the Mazda that the OP has in his truck and any later one are the incremental improvements, the better 5th-rev synchro setup, and of course the "wide ratio" gearset the 2.9 version of the trans shares with 4cyl and 3.0 installations.

I'm currently running a "wide ratio" trans behind my 4.0.

That transmission has made TWO round trips to Wyoming since
September of 2007

Oil starvation parts failure issues in the mazda trans are related to either
overboard oil loss (common and NOT specifically related to the famous "rubber plugs" though they usually get the blame)
OR pices of the plastic shifter bushigs that fall into the trans,
get ground up and eventually plug the small oil feed passages
to the "pocket" bearing.

when the pocket bearing burns up the heat generated destroys
the heat treating of the input gear and the gear basically melts
like a Hershey bar left in the sun

There are two distinct areas where 4.0 transmissions could be considered "Stronger" than the 2.9 trans.

One is that except for a very few VERY early 4.0 transmissions
(the first half of 1991) got the weaker "fine spline" 5th Reverse synchro setup, but the likelihood of finding one of those transmissions still in a vehicle is small, most got overhauled and "upgraded" long ago. it's an "upgrade" shared by
ALL 1992-up mazda's regardless of what engine they were for.

the other upgrade is the way the reverse idler shaft is mounted
to the case, the later case (all 4.0 cases) the shaft is better supported by a heavier reinforcement boss that "cups" the part of the shaft where it is bolted to the main case.

But again, that change was also applied to all 4cyl and 3.0 transmissions as well.

I've seen ONE trans broken that way.

as for the strength of the actual gears? No.

I'm almost convinced that the 3rd gear for the 4.0 transmission is slightly weaker than the one for the other applications because the smaller diameter of the gear required ford to use a smaller diameter inner sleeve (located the synchro dog) that is TIG welded to the gear itself in the manufacturing process
the actual perimiter of the weld is smaller and the parts thinner so they tend to use less current in the welding (to avoid heat dammage) and in the process they get less weld penetration

I've seen several 4.0 3rd gears where that weld split.

I have yet to see a similar "wide ratio" gear split even if those gears are assembled into a transmission case that will bolt
to a 4.0

As for the proper oil? Dex3 is the correct fluid UNLESS you have a trans late enough to have the "plastic" coated (inner friction surface) synchro rings that are DESIGNED to be used with Mercon5.

My trans does have the "plastic" synchro rings and I still run Merc3 in it.

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