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self drilling screws??


Heavyfire14

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Messages
1,383
City
imperial valley
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Automatic
how strong are they? i only have one holding up my muffler hanger and was wandering if its stong enough to leave there or what kinda bolt/nut should i use?

and also the hanger is bolted to the body on like a crossmember type thing. i go offroading and need it to stay bolted on and not come off (and i dont have a welder)
 
It would depend on how big the shank of the screw is. If it's close to 1/4" o.d. I'd guess o.k.
As far as offroading keep a repair kit on hand; mechanics wire and pliers.

Richard
 
they are strong, however with age and rust they get extremely brittle and snap from sudden jarring
 
they are strong, however with age and rust they get extremely brittle and snap from sudden jarring

yep. we just break them off when replacing the nailer strips on a flatbed ..... not that difficult.
 
i think ill put one or two more on just to be sure it holds, and i always carry tools in my truck :D
 
The interior of my bus/camper is attached with them. All RVs are held down to their frames with them. They are brilliant.
 
Look at it this way -
If you do need to "upgrade" to a bolt/nut arrangement, there will already be a hole pre-drilled. Just enlarge it suitably for the new fastener.
 
There called Self Tapping screws, Bro. You can get them in several types of coatings like Zinc (a good choice). I have used them on a lot of my trucks and dirt bikes over the years and never had any issues with them. Check out this website and get some info about them.



http://www.mcfeelys.com/self-tapping-screws
 
There called Self Tapping screws, Bro. You can get them in several types of coatings like Zinc (a good choice). I have used them on a lot of my trucks and dirt bikes over the years and never had any issues with them. Check out this website and get some info about them.



http://www.mcfeelys.com/self-tapping-screws

Variations of this type of screw have a small "drill point" on the end; therefore the name "self-drilling" does actually apply. It has to "self-drill" a hole before it can "self-tap" it.

This is a typical "self-drilling" sheetmetal screw:
SelfDrillingScrew10-16x19mmAtharvaInnovationsLLP.jpg


This one has a notch at the point, that acts like a tap for cutting threads:
sgs-ws.jpg


Here's a "self-tapping" bolt. The notches/grooves allow it to "self-tap" to a certain degree:
selftapbolt.jpg


Either term works.
 
I see what you are saying but...all my self tapping screws just drill into place, I don't need a drill hole to start it. I just place it where it is going and it goes right on in. I have used them for years on everything around the house and cars, bikes and trucks. Love them.
 
I see what you are saying but...all my self tapping screws just drill into place, I don't need a drill hole to start it. I just place it where it is going and it goes right on in. I have used them for years on everything around the house and cars, bikes and trucks. Love them.

Then all of your self tapping screws are really self drilling. Just a way of being more specific about what exactly you're talking about I suppose. Self drillers have a special point to drill a starter hole, self tappers do not.

Back on topic, I would use 2 screws just so the strap can't pivot. As long as the metal you're drilling into is solid you should be fine
 
Then all of your self tapping screws are really self drilling. Just a way of being more specific about what exactly you're talking about I suppose. Self drillers have a special point to drill a starter hole, self tappers do not.

Back on topic, I would use 2 screws just so the strap can't pivot. As long as the metal you're drilling into is solid you should be fine


That is confusing. I just buy and always have bought Self Tapping screws. That is what is on the box of screws I always buy. I thought that is what all of them were called.

:icon_confused:
 
I think it's just the "industry's" way of bandying semantics. Some say self-drilling, others say self-tapping. SD-type have a small "drill-bit" tip; ST-type have the grooves. Maybe there's a third sub-category....."self-starting".....with an extremely sharp point that doesn't technically "drill" a starter-hole.

Oh well.....to the OP....
I'd do as has been mentioned and "double up" on whatever fasteners you're currently running. You can always "upgrade" later to a bolt & nut arrangement should the current method prove too weak or become loose.
 
i think im either gonna have to go to a bolt and nut or mount the hanger in a differnt location because the screws keep getting loose (i put a seconed one on today and it still got loose). i think its cause their screwed inti some thin cab metal and not the frame
 

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