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Seized 2.8 Bronco II


lneidlinger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
71
City
Kalamazoo, MI
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Automatic
Hello all, long time lurker, first time poster.

My friend is looking at getting a bronco II. We found one that the body is in real good condition, paint is a bit faded, but everything is there. It's got a 2.8 in it, and its apparently seized up. The reason why its seized up is that its been sitting for about 7 or 8 years.

Everything is there on the motor, it all looks clean. The carb looks like it's in good condition, and everything still moves freely on it. I assume if we can get it for a real good deal, it might be worth a shot to take the plugs out and spray some aerokroil down in there and see if she will turn over. Then of course check the oil, check if the starter will turn it over, check for spark and gas then see if she will fire. My question is, what are the possible ramifications down the road of how the engine will hold up after being seized? Also, how do you guys think the water pump/alternator/power steering pump are after all this time? It also has a A4LD auto (with an added trans cooler) and it's 4WD, so how do you guys think those are holding up, seized too or what?

Thanks
 
If my friend dosen't want it for whatever reason, I'm really tempted by this.

My 91 ranger has a rough body, but strong running 4.0 and good shifting A4LD. I was just thinking, if the engine and trans are shot in this, I could pick it up cheap and do a motor/trans swap.

Anybody have any idea how hard it would be to swap a 2.8 to a 4.0? Also, the ranger is a 2WD, could you take the 4WD tailshaft off the A4LD in the bronco and put it on the one from the ranger to allow you to retain the 4WD?
 
There's no way to really know how "siezed" it is from the outside. What's probably happened is that one or more cylinder has rusted to the rings and / or pistons.

I'd squirt some PB Blaster down the cylinders and see what happens.

I guess how long it lasts depends on how rusted it is. If it's just a little on the rings, and it breaks free reasonably easily, it could run just fine. On the other hand, if the rings are pitted from rust, well, then things might not be so good.

In either case, I'd give it a go and see what happens.
 
If my friend dosen't want it for whatever reason, I'm really tempted by this.

My 91 ranger has a rough body, but strong running 4.0 and good shifting A4LD. I was just thinking, if the engine and trans are shot in this, I could pick it up cheap and do a motor/trans swap.

Anybody have any idea how hard it would be to swap a 2.8 to a 4.0? Also, the ranger is a 2WD, could you take the 4WD tailshaft off the A4LD in the bronco and put it on the one from the ranger to allow you to retain the 4WD?

i would just swap motors and leave da old bronco tranny in there(if it fits your motor) i have a 1974 f250 that sat for 12 years and someone just rebuilt the motor and i bought the truck, and the tranny worked fine.
just drain the torque converter and the pan, replace the filter and fill her up.

as for the 2.8... pour some desiel in da cylnders let it sit over night and pull the bronco with another thuck and throw the tranny in gear. this shuld free up the motor. if not try a couple mote times, if still not free then ur sol. :shok:
 
From what I've heard the older A4LD's had some problems and the A4LD that came with the 4.0's are a bit stronger too.
 
as for the 2.8... pour some desiel in da cylnders let it sit over night and pull the bronco with another thuck and throw the tranny in gear. this shuld free up the motor. if not try a couple mote times, if still not free then ur sol. :shok:

And that does what with an automatic transmission?

Soaking a V engine is tricky, all the juice runs to the bottom and the upper part of the cylinder gets no soaking action. I have tried it on two and it really hasn't worked yet. Vertical inlines are cake.
 
If you can get it to break loose disconnect the coil and crank on it for a while to see if the oil pressure comes up a little before you give it spark and fuel mainly for the crank and cam bearings. The 2.8 is a pretty tuff little engine if the oil pressure comes up pretty good do a compression test if it is within 10 % between the high and low run some seafoam thru it half in the tank (full) and the other half in the brake booster vacuum line when it is up to temp and quickly shut it off wait 1/2 an hour then run it at around 2500 rpm until the smoke stops then check the compression again you want at most 5 % between the high and low numbers on the compression. Oh yea you will probably want to flush the tank then do a rebuild on the carb if the engine looks sound.
 
Uhh, update here. The owner of this truck wants $2500 for it. :icon_rofl:

I think its time to look elsewhere.
 
I was thinking $250-300, but they were firm on $2500. When I mentioned I found a 88 in better condition with a running 2.9 on CL for $700, they were unaffected. "The body is just in such good condition"

...it's in OK condition...BUT ITS GOT A SEIZED MOTOR, early A4LD and has been sitting for 8 years :thefinger:
 

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