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seafoam, no smoke show?


bluebombersfan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
361
Vehicle Year
2006
Transmission
Manual
I sucked a 1/3 can of seafoam through what I believe is the brake booster vacuum line and I never saw any smoke coming out of my exaust. On the youtube videos I've seen when people do this it looks like a smoke bomb went off.
 
I sucked a 1/3 can of seafoam through what I believe is the brake booster vacuum line and I never saw any smoke coming out of my exaust. On the youtube videos I've seen when people do this it looks like a smoke bomb went off.

did u warm it up first? then as soon as its all sucked up you need shut it off and wait about 10-15 mins then rev it up or drive it and it should give at least a little smoke show, maybe your engine is nice and clean lol.
 
I had that result too.

Very little smoke, short duration.

I did it twice, using 1/3 of the can and let it stall the engine, then sit, then repeat and drive off. Smoke was minimal, and gone by 1/8 mile.
 
so what if you dont have power brakes?
 
so what if you dont have power brakes?

I took a squirt bottle and sprayed it in the throttle body. worked fine. although i do have power brakes. that just seemed easier.
 
I find it works best to dump as much as you can in the vac line without the engine stalling. If you get it right, you can really pour the stuff in there as it and the air going in just act like more throttle (IE air/fuel) and it takes it right in.

Getting more and more in there really soaks the carbon buildup and helps it come off and burn off easier. As mentioned you want the engine warm and you need to let it sit for a little while to do its work before you run it.

That said, I didn't get as much smoke from my 12 year old 74k mile engine that I would have thought.
 
i know this is old. but i sucked in a 1/3 of a can through the brake booster vacum line, shut it off for 10 minutes. truck was already warm, started it back up and ran it through the back roads. no hint of smoke. my idle was raised due to the vacum line being off and the rpms were around 2k while i did this. so maybe it burned it off too quick to soak in. i may try it again in a couple weeks if i notice any hesitation or anything

just got the truck and changed 7 out of 8 plugs which did wonders, but i can't imagine how to get the one on the drivers side in the back without pulling the upper intake. almost all of the plug boots ripped when trying to remove since they were so old. but there's a huge improvement now
 
just got the truck and changed 7 out of 8 plugs which did wonders, but i can't imagine how to get the one on the drivers side in the back without pulling the upper intake. almost all of the plug boots ripped when trying to remove since they were so old. but there's a huge improvement now



To get that last plug on the back, I found it helpful to remove the EGR plug, and go in just above the fuel rail. No need to pull the intake. I think I used twelve inches worth of extensions to get to the plug, but it is possible.
 
so you noticed quite a bit more umpf, just from replacing the plugs and wires???? If so, and im assuminng you have the 2.3 twinspark. i may look into replacing them on my next tune up..i just bought the truck about a year ago and everything works great, so normally i just change out the fluids. so far its performed very well for me. she aint much for power, but i can get from a to b just fine in any weather, so long as there aint more than about 6 inches of snow out on the ground..cuz i only have 2wd and no positrac..just that stupid useless limited f u c k i n slip diff......my question is...did you replace the coil packs aswell...and what size/type of plug wires did you use?
 
on my '92, for that rear driver side plug all I use is a swival with a 10" and 3" extention. Its a tight fit and you have to guide it in there with your left hand. But i have never had to take anything off. Left hand between valve cover and intake, above fuel rail and right hand pokin with the ratchet. And this is the first time I have heard about this seafoam stuff for carbon buildup. Can you get this stuff at any autopart store?
 
seafoam is about $10 a can at any parts store. if you put any in your oil. change the oil within a few hundred miles, when you put it thru the brake booster do not let it stall. I would strongly suggest only using motorcraft double platinum plugs and motrcraft wires set with the hooks on them. the plugs really are not tough to access with a swivel. the wires are the pita. thats where the good wires with the hooks come in.

if you did the seafoam treatment properly and it did not smoke it is probably a good thing. I put a 1/3 of a can twice within a few days of and it smoked like crazy.

Again I will repeat myself. Do the Seafoam treatment before you do any other work. the carbon can end up sticking to plugs and o2 sensors, etc. so do the treament then change plugs. if you put it in the crankcase change the oil a few days later.
 
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the improvement by changing the plugs and wires was immense. i don't mean this thing can blow the tires off in second gear..... before if i shifted into 5th gear at 45 mph it would hardly maintain that speed on level ground. it was bogging out and couldn't maintain, now i can hit 40 mph in 5th gear and accelorate up small hills. it was a vast improvement for driveability and it revs much smoother. it had a slight hesitation when doing part throttle before.

just did seafoam in the oil for 10 miles, plugs, wires, and 1/3 of a can in the vacum line, but showed no smoke as stated. but this thing runs 10x better than before. i also put a k&n filter in it, just cause i plan to drive this thing for a while and don't wanna rebuy air filters. didn't think it would make it faster or anything.

and no, i didn't change the coil packs. there was a little oxidation on the connections to the wires, i'll pull them off again and clean off the terminals when i detail the engine bay next weekend. gonna buff the paint and find some tires for the mustang bullit wheels i picked up yesterday
 
Sounds like you know what you are doing don't forget to keep the MAF clean. The oil for the k and N filter can mess with the MAF
 

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