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Screwed up


Stromnoodle

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Messages
21
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Well hello all, So heres my problem. I was out mudding and hit a small pond and have a stock ford ranger v6 4.0 4x4 XL. Water went into my air box and in my engine, then my exhaust tube broke off at the muffler so while i tried to start my truck and let it run it kick out some flames and caught my spare on fire (crappy day) and now my passenger rear tire is locked.... talk about freakin destroyed. I'm hoping tomorrow i can start it with no problems after it sits around but i'm not sure about the rear end, any help or knowledge on this??
 
ok, so you hydrolocked the engine, tried to start it, but instead of starting it, it some how managed to catch the spare tire on fire, and now a wheel is seized?

youre going to hate me but the parts to fix all that are going to cost probably double what a new 93 xl will cost...
 
ok, so you hydrolocked the engine, tried to start it, but instead of starting it, it some how managed to catch the spare tire on fire, and now a wheel is seized?

youre going to hate me but the parts to fix all that are going to cost probably double what a new 93 xl will cost...

Ok, so ignoring the rear end at this point would it be possible to rebuild the engine from top to bottom or would it be better to start from scratch with another engine? As the plan was to turn her into a full blown racer down the line...just not destroy her before I could be fully equipped :headbang:
 
Ok, so ignoring the rear end at this point would it be possible to rebuild the engine from top to bottom or would it be better to start from scratch with another engine? As the plan was to turn her into a full blown racer down the line...just not destroy her before I could be fully equipped :headbang:

The '93 4.0 is not a great engine for a 'fully blown racer.' To make it strong and durable enough you need to get a set of roller rockers that cost as much as a reman engine from Ford. You will not find a ton in the way of performance parts, and the oil starvation problem (required the roller rockers to fix it) limits what you can throw at it without melting it down.
 
The '93 4.0 is not a great engine for a 'fully blown racer.' To make it strong and durable enough you need to get a set of roller rockers that cost as much as a reman engine from Ford. You will not find a ton in the way of performance parts, and the oil starvation problem (required the roller rockers to fix it) limits what you can throw at it without melting it down.

So would swapping it with a newer 4.0 that has the SOHC be a better decision, as I'm trying to keep it a v6 for turning it into a class 7.
 
So would swapping it with a newer 4.0 that has the SOHC be a better decision, as I'm trying to keep it a v6 for turning it into a class 7.

No
 
to answer the question you posed me, if it's possible to rebuild the top, yes it is, but it is impossible to say if that will work in your case, without dismantling the engine, but by the sounds of it, something is broken good, could be something as simple as a head gasket, or something as major as a bent crank shaft broken con rods and a hole in the side of the block.

as for the ebrake/brake debate, the ebrake cable is a metal braided cable, in a plastic/rubber sheathing for parts, the regular brake is metal tubes for anywhere that doesn't move, and rubber hoses for the frame-suspension jumps, pretty simple to figure out which is which
 
to answer the question you posed me, if it's possible to rebuild the top, yes it is, but it is impossible to say if that will work in your case, without dismantling the engine, but by the sounds of it, something is broken good, could be something as simple as a head gasket, or something as major as a bent crank shaft broken con rods and a hole in the side of the block.

as for the ebrake/brake debate, the ebrake cable is a metal braided cable, in a plastic/rubber sheathing for parts, the regular brake is metal tubes for anywhere that doesn't move, and rubber hoses for the frame-suspension jumps, pretty simple to figure out which is which

Well so far I've talked to my buddy who's done the same thing multiple times with his 94 3.0. He suggested flushing the engine a couple times with new oil radiator fluid and tranny fluid. As for the brakes it actually caught both on fire, it did much more damage to the drum line vs the ebrake rubber housing, so I'm thinking I'm going to buy a new line and see if that helps fix that.

So for right now I've got a plan, which includes try everything cheap first then worry if nothing works.
 
I would take the rear drum off and access the damage. You need to determine what needs to be replaced and just do it. Replacing some external stuff and hope it works is risky business. Cheap and a prayer is not a good idea when it comes to brakes.
 
I would take the rear drum off and access the damage. You need to determine what needs to be replaced and just do it. Replacing some external stuff and hope it works is risky business. Cheap and a prayer is not a good idea when it comes to brakes.

Forsure man. Also thanks for all the input everyone. I will be back on in a couple days and let everyone know what the final verdict is...Hopefully she'll still be rollin after some fixin.
 

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