SAS advice...

[RangerSVT]

EB44's are 73-77 years, with 73-75 drum brake, 76-77 are disk brake, 78+ are full width, not EB...
SVT

 

[4x4junkie]

Yep, '78-'79 = Dana44 fullsize. You'd have to narrow the passengerside 6" to have it EB size, though you would end up with a better axle with the hi-pinion diff afterward.
IMO, I don't think welded-on vs. cast wedges matters much if you stick to the stock-type radius arm setup.

 

[wahlstrom1]

It's just easier to narrow an 'early' D44 vs the 78/79' models is all, and better chances of finding a heavy tube version.

 

[Hagan]

I figured that out with some quick searching. And they put 1/2 ton axles in Bronco's. I just wanted to be sure.

The cast on wedges would matter if you had to move them...unless they will be in the perfect spot after you shorten it?

Basically all EB D44's I'm seeing are overpriced. I can get HP D44's for anywhere from $200-$300.

I'm worse than a fat kid in a candy store.

 

[4x4junkie]

The cast on wedges would matter if you had to move them...unless they will be in the perfect spot after you shorten it?

.

Typically you would narrow an axle with cast wedges by cutting out the weld on the inside of the cast section (instead of at the knuckle "C") and knock it apart there. Cut 6" from the tube, then reweld the tube back into the cast wedge assy. The end result would be the same dimensions as an EB axle, but high-pinion. Then you'd just need an aftermarket EB shaft to maintain having the larger u-joint on that side.

I'm not 100% on it, but I suspect most coil-spring axles are gonna have the thinner tubes. The thick ones are leaf spring (which would include the '70s Supercab trucks). Tubes that thick are probably a bit overkill on a light RBV I think.

 

[Hagan]

Typically you would narrow an axle with cast wedges by cutting out the weld on the inside of the cast section (instead of at the knuckle "C") and knock it apart there. Cut 6" from the tube, then reweld the tube back into the cast wedge assy. The end result would be the same dimensions as an EB axle, but high-pinion. Then you'd just need an aftermarket EB shaft to maintain having the larger u-joint on that side.

I'm not 100% on it, but I suspect most coil-spring axles are gonna have the thinner tubes. The thick ones are leaf spring (which would include the '70s Supercab trucks). Tubes that thick are probably a bit overkill on a light RBV I think.

And so is probably a straight axle

So the difference is taking the axle tube out of the cast wedge (78-79) or out of the knuckle (76-77)?

So another stupid question...but can 5-760x u-joints be used instead of the 5-297x like the D35?

 

[RangerSVT]

All were straight axles til 80, that's when the TTB hit the full size trucks, and yeah, the 760 joints can be used in place of the 297's (same size externally, but internally have a smaller passageway for the grease leaving more material which makes it stronger)
SVT

 

[Hagan]

Its crazy to think that the dana 44 uses the same size u-joints as a D35.

Anyway, now I just need to find one. How do you know the diameter of the axle tube?

I don't see a panhard mount on the axle...but isn't it necessary to use one?

 

[RangerSVT]

The panhard mount is part of the C's that's on the axle in the form of a stud pointing to the front. It looks more like a shock mount than a tracbar mount...
SVT

 

[Maverick]

It's just easier to narrow an 'early' D44 vs the 78/79' models is all, and better chances of finding a heavy tube version.

+1 It is just as easy to narrow and you do get the thicker tubes. Mine from start to finish took about 3 hours.


To Junkie: I will not got round and round with you over this, we all know of you and your love for TTB. I stated my reasons for SAS swap which are all valid, and the reasons to stay with a TTB. The hubs are real on a D35 in that you have to lock them, but they are weak and dont seal worth a damn, o-ring, silicone or whatever. The steering is far superior on a SAS, stock, lifted to the moon, or anything in between. If enjoy tire scrub with constantly changing toe, that's all you bud. As far as not holding an alignment goes, that is my experience with stock Rangers as well. After a good thrashing my steering wheel always ended up in a different spot than when I started earlier in the day. Give me your BII for an hour and I'll show you what I'm talking about As for comparing the D35 beams to 3/4 ton axles, these are some awfully weird looking spring pads:

Hagan, this ^ is the ideal axle to start with when building a high pinion D44. 76-77 F150, 0.5" DOM tubes and welded on C wedges.

 

[wahlstrom1]

IIRC 66'-77 are the same in F150 diffs.

 

[RangerSVT]

Andrew, you are correct, but in the early bronco (which is a different size width even in the earlier F150 years) the earlier years from 66 on was dana 30, from 73 (It could be 71, I can't remember) was 44...
SVT

 

[wahlstrom1]

Ya, just saying all F150's had a high pinion open knuckle D44 so there's a lot to choose from if you can find them.

 

[Maverick]

When sourcing a complete axle, 76-77 F150 are the best years. Factory disc brakes and heavy wall tubes. If starting with a bare housing, sure, lots of years to choose from.

 

[4x4junkie]

So the difference is taking the axle tube out of the cast wedge (78-79) or out of the knuckle (76-77)?

So another stupid question...but can 5-760x u-joints be used instead of the 5-297x like the D35?

Yes to both

Andrew, you are correct, but in the early bronco (which is a different size width even in the earlier F150 years) the earlier years from 66 on was dana 30, from 73 (It could be 71, I can't remember) was 44...
SVT

'71.5

To Junkie: I will not got round and round with you over this ... (snipping for space)

I'm not at all forcing you to go round and round over anything. But when you say something about something when there are real-world examples available that demonstrate the contrary, I'm only making sure the others here are aware of them.
So we're just gonna have to agree to disagree on this as like the last time.