?s about wiring my system

[4x4fun]

if this was fab work id just build it and then show you the end product, but since this audio stuff isnt exactly my strong suit ill continue to consult you guys since you seem to have all the answers im looking for.

thats what were here for.

and that amp will never let you down. iv owned two of the them. the second being the only used thing iv ever ran. thats thing it like a tank. gave it to my buddy and its still going strong today.

 

[RangerSVT]

post up model and power rating of all the MTX's again so we can plan the best route for you
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

heres a list of my components so you guys can come up with a good plan of attack for me. ill provide links to the specifications so that you are getting the correct information instead of what i think i know.
♪ HU - Kenwood KDC-119, specs can be viewed by entering the code at the bottom of the page and viewing page 26.
http://www.retrevo.com/search/v2/jsp/mytrevo/myTrevo.jsp?page=man

i also have a Kenwood KDC-x759 that needs to be repaired so ill be sending it in to kenwoods service center on thursday.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ktCaFdLLmsO/p_113KDCX759/Kenwood-KDC-X759.html?tab=other_items

♪ amplifiers - 2 MTX RT202s
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uG58L15oqiv/p_236RT202/MTX-RoadThunder-RT202.html

- 1 MTX RTP202
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/amplifiers/rtp202.cfm

♪ sub woofers - 2 pyramid audio 8"s
http://www.pyramidcaraudio.com/itempage.asp?model=WX85X

♪ speakers - 4 MTX XT573, click on the model # to view specs
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/speakers/indexXThunder.cfm

 

[RangerSVT]

Ok, so far you have only posted 3 amps(not counting the kenwood), one rtp202 and two rt202's....you said yesterday that you just got a 400w mtx...what is the model/specs on that one??
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

the RTP 202 (road thunder pro) is the 400w, the 2 RT 202s (road thunder) are 200w (those are max ratings so they are fictional numbers). i made some wiring diagrams up last night, but when i drew the wires for the speakers i ran them in series which i guess bumped my load up to 8 ohms? (im still trying to make sense of this part) when i really wanted to run them in parallel? to get them down to 2 ohms so i could get the 150w per channel that the RTP202 is rated at. ill post up the pictures in a few more minutes, when my boss gets out of the office and i can pirate his computer! the spec sheet for the RTP202, which i will be running the door speakers off from, is 150w total rms @ 2 ohms all channels (which i assume means 150w per channel @ 2 ohms). the 4 ohm rating is 45w rms per channel, i was trying to take a picture of the spec sheet to post up, but i kept getting too much flash and then my battery died, so crap....

 

[RangerSVT]

Okay, I got you now...first you want to go by RMS ratings, not total or peak. RMS watts..All 3 have the same rating at 2 ohms stereo and 4 ohm mono (bridged)...So it comes down to whether or not you want to be able to fade your vocals FBLR or if you can deal with just LR. I have mine set up just LR, I have one 2 channel for vocals and one 2 channel for subs...if you can deal with just LR, go with one sub per amp, if you want FBLR, then series your subs to one amp...Maybe the numbers will help, if you use one amp for the subs each sub will get 37.5 watts, or if you use one amp for each sub, they will get 150 watts each, and they can only handle 100 watts each, so you can't turn your amp up all the way (keep in mind the sensitivity is not a volume knob for the amp, but can be used to limit the output of the amp)...It also depends on your upgrades down the road, are you wanting to add more subs later, like going with four 8's or four 10's, if so, it doesn't matter if you run two sub amps or one, as you will end up with the same power going to the subs...so it comes down to what you plan to do in future upgrades...
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

i can deal with having the vocals split to only left and right, that way i can feed the subs the power they need (bridge each amp), but how will i go about wiring the door speakers to get them the power they need?

 

[RangerSVT]

I revised my previous post, but you would wire the door speakers (vocals/highs and mids) in parellel, and by obtaining a 2 ohm stereo load, each speaker will get the 4 ohm rated power the amp puts out...
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

so if im understanding you correctly the rtp 202 will put out 45w to each door speaker since its rated at 45w per channel at 4 ohms. will that be sufficient for the 65wrms speakers, or should i consider using the kenwood (100w x 2 @ 4 ohms) to power the speakers?

 

[RangerSVT]

The RTP will be plenty to drive the highs and mids, even though it doesn't sound like it will be. If after the install you decide its not enough, you can swap it out for the kenwood, but IMO you will be happy with the MTX's
SVT

 

[4x4fun]

so if im understanding you correctly the rtp 202 will put out 45w to each door speaker since its rated at 45w per channel at 4 ohms. will that be sufficient for the 65wrms speakers, or should i consider using the kenwood (100w x 2 @ 4 ohms) to power the speakers?

no your good with what you have.

you need to run one rt202 to each sub. its 150wrms @4ohms bridged. going to a 100wrms 4 ohms sub. good match, just have your settings right.

then

run your RPT202 which is 75wrms x2 @2ohms and run your speakers to it.
your two channels are:
1 left side ran in parrell= a 2ohm load
2 right side ran in parrell = a 2 ohms load

your subs are a lil over powered nothing id worry about. as long as everything is set up right. and your speakers are under powered.

this is a good starting point. in your system. and it allows you to see were you stand. if you like it, leave it alone.

and this way is very modular. so if you want to upgrade a part its less you have to rebuy.

 

[4x4fun]

The RTP will be plenty to drive the highs and mids, even though it doesn't sound like it will be. If after the install you decide its not enough, you can swap it out for the kenwood, but IMO you will be happy with the MTX's
SVT

x2

theres alot of lil tweeks and changes you can do. with what you have. if you need more you can rerange your amps and only have to buy one amp. or non at all. i would really run this for at least 3 or 4 months. ans see what you like and dis like. then we can help you mod to fit. without having to start over and rebuying stuff.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

ok that clears things up,thanks guys. heres the drawings i did last night, 1 for each head unit, so just pretend that i ran the door speakers in parallel instead of series and i should be doing exactly what youre saying right? also i have a 30 amp fuse in my power wire (ive read to go 10A over the rating of the amplifier), will this be enough or do i need to go higher because im running 3 20A amps off from it? also with this set up will the the 4ga be enough to run these amps (i was planning on splitting it into 3 8ga wires once i get into the X-cab portion of the truck, or should i run 2ga back there and then do the split? the only reason i ask if 4 ga will be enough is because i already have a fuse holder for the 4 ga wire and i havent found any thing to use on the 2ga or i would just use that instead. also i was planning on soldering and shrink tubing the split from the 4 or 2ga to the 3 lengths of 8ga. i think this will be fine as long as i dont want to upgrade later, because then ill have to run all new wiring or just cut the wire at the split and work back (soldering will save me from buying a 3-way distribution block). ok on to pictures:
heres the RTP 202 painted to match the other RT 202s

heres the picture of the wiring if i use the KDC 119 with the single out put on the rear

and heres the picture of the wiring if i used the kdc x759 (still have to send it in for repair)

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

oops, that last pic wasnt supposed to be in there, but its a good pic of some of my "work" (its more like play to me). ive got a 4 day weekend coming up starting this friday, so im trying to get things figured out as i want to get the majority of the wiring done this weekend.
im leaning towards using the KDC119 HU because its already in there, i will still have to buy 3 rca cables any ways, and its less stuff to run that way (i guess its only 2 cables less that i have to run under the flooring, so i may just buy 2 more long lengths and put them in there incase they CAN fix that KDCX759 unit, then i can just plug it in when im ready and everything else should still work with minimal RCA cable changing.
the only gamble in going with the KDC119 is that i had to repair it after my friend traded me for an old pioneer i had. when the kenwood was in his chevy it didnt sit in the dash all the way so he kept pushing it in and eventually lost his out put signal. i took it apart and found that the solder connections had broken off the board, so i resoldered them, but have not tested them since installing it my truck.

 

[RangerSVT]

A couple of changes...your highs and mids are wired in series, not parallel, in your diagram. Also, you will need a larger fuse at the battery, but I suggest goin with a manual resetting circuit breaker, at least a 150 amp. The 4 gauge will be enough, and I highly suggest using a 4 way combination distribution/fuse block, as each amp needs to be fused independantly. Other than that you have it correct
SVT