Rusty bolts

[Shotokan1509]

I have a bunch of maint that needs to be performed on the suspension of my truck, which happens to be quite rusty from Northeast winters and the previous owner used to launch a small boat with it.

Shocks mounts, spring mounts, axle pivot, radius arm mount are my main concerns.


I have pb-blasted them but I don't think thats going to cut it. Can I use a propane torch on these without the worry of weakening the steel? I have snapped lower shock mounts before which stinks but can be relatively easily replaced, the radius arm nut/threads I do NOT want to ruin though. Any other tips/tricks besides PB, heat and a cheater-breaker?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have never used propane, but I can mooch my dad's oxy when I need it. After a good soak with penatrating oil, a good whack or two with a hammer will help break stuff loose. Just don't get carried away with it and don't hit anything you can mess up (threads). If that doesn't work the torch comes out.

 

[Ranger44]

I usually just break out the torch for stubborn bolts and heat them up. I don't know if a propane torch will get hot enough. I use the good ol' oxygen and actylene torch.

 

[MAKG]

A PROPANE torch will do nothing to steel. It won't loosen it and it won't change hardness properties. It's not nearly hot enough.

Oxypropane might. Oxyacetylene certainly will.

The only thing propane can do is melt nearby rubber parts like spring eye bushings.

 

[2manyfords]

Map gas works fine and you can use it with a plumbers propane torch head.

 

[Shotokan1509]

A PROPANE torch will do nothing to steel. It won't loosen it and it won't change hardness properties. It's not nearly hot enough.

Oxypropane might. Oxyacetylene certainly will.

The only thing propane can do is melt nearby rubber parts like spring eye bushings.

That was the other end of the spectrum I was thinking, not hot enough.. but my access to a torch has moved out of state

 

[Southern3.0]

Gives you a good reson to buy a torch then.

 

[Todd]

Propane can help on small fasteners, the heat just needs to be applied over a longer period of time to be effective. I have done it but it sucks if you must do it often as it takes much more time then oxy/acet.

 

[86ford]

i have had good luck with the mapp gas and a solidering torch. if nothing else get 3 foot section of pipe to put on the end of that cheater bar. it typically requires help to hold the socket in place and press on the pipe but it works.

 

[samsonitesamsonite]

map gas woks pretty good

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Propane can help on small fasteners, the heat just needs to be applied over a longer period of time to be effective. I have done it but it sucks if you must do it often as it takes much more time then oxy/acet.

+1

For something as big as the radius arm nuts, it would take forever to heat it up. I've used propane when I had nothing else on bolts up to 1/2 inch, but those take about 5 minutes or so of heat before they get hot enough.

MAPP gas should work a good bit better than propane. You can pick up one of those torches for like $15-20 at any hardware store, they look like the lil propane torches but they put out quite a bit more heat.

An acetylene plumbers torch will work, I've used one of those before when nothing else was available.

An Oxy-Acetylene rig will remove any fastener...in one way or another...lol. IMHO, if you can afford it, this is the way to go. If you can't afford a full-sized torch set though, you might be better off with a MAPP gas torch for now though cuz I don't know that those lil Oxy-acet. sets that Home Depot sells that takes disposeable tanks like propane are good for anything more than emergency use.

 

[Shotokan1509]

Welll... not so sure I'll be trying it at all. The lower coil mount stud I can barely make out what used to be threads, the same for the radius arms. Does anybody know if the spindle is studs, or pass through bolts? Yet another set of nasty looking threads, but I really do need to get those U-joints done,

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Spindle I'm not sure, but no matter how old or rusty the truck is, I've always had those nuts come off without a hitch. Beating the spindle free, however, is a different story. Best way to do that is with a spindle remover tool. Usually the bolts look like they're junk, but once you get the nuts off, they don't look bad at all.

 

[Jspafford]

The spindles are studs, five of them I believe.

Leave the spindle nut on and use it to beat the spindle off with a RUBBER mallet or some sort. If you hit the threads it will be toast and the spindles are expensive!!

I learned the hard way.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The spindles are studs, five of them I believe.

Leave the spindle nut on and use it to beat the spindle off with a RUBBER mallet or some sort. If you hit the threads it will be toast and the spindles are expensive!!

I learned the hard way.

I've tried that before and only succeeded in beating the hub nuts to a pulp because after beating myself to death with a deadblow rubber mallet, I took a real hammer to the nuts...and still didn't get the spindle free without beating a cold chisel and a couple of craftsman screwdrivers in between the spindle an knuckle.

A spindle removal tool is a good investment, IMHO, the tool itself is $20 from Summit Racing, not sure what it costs elsewhere, but it threads onto the spindles of D-28's, d-35's and d-44's among others. You're supposed to use a slidehammer on it, but I've had good success with a hammer. Smack it, give it a twist to tighten it back up an smack it in the other direction. Once it starts to loosen, shove a screwdriver in between the spindle an the knuckle an smack towards the screwdriver. Usually three to four hits and I have a spindle off. No mess, no fuss.