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Rusted ... fix or ditch?


Zorro

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2008
Messages
182
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
All you southern sunbelt guys need not apply. You will not even comprehend the pictures I'm about to post.:stop:

Here's a general view of the truck. Just has a 1" spacer up front to counter the weight of the winch.
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A look at the tailgate ...
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Left bedside ...
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Inner rear fender
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Right bedside ... uh-oh.
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Inner fender ... ah crap!
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Rust on the cab ...
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Yes, that's gone through.
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All 4 windshield corners ...
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Imagine this is your truck. A 94, 130k, swapped a manual trans this spring, reliable and obviously paid for.

What would you do? Fix the rust (keep in mind I can't do bodywork ... I'd swap hood/bed and have the cab fixed by a shop) or ditch the truck (keeping in mind I don't have 15k to put in a replacement truck).
 
There's a lot of rust on that... and not just in one spot either. I wouldn't really bother fixing it, since it's likely that it'll happen again. What are your needs as far as truck goes?
 
"ditch it" means driving it until the wheels fall off or I find a suitable replacement. Thx for the offer though.
 
That has years left on it. I spray rust converter into the rust holes and everywhere and just leave it. Its be ugly for years. I would line up a new cab--which I have done, and leave it under something to protect it while you get finished with the old one.
 
I say the windshield rot is the killer. Difficult to fix that crap, cause i garentee that theres more that you cant see in the cowl and behind the dash. Might want to check under the carpet, under the hood at the top of the firewall, and behind the inner fenders just ahead of the doors. Then the back of the cab where the back meets the floor.

Probably find more hard to fix spots there too.
 
Last edited:
Yeah I'll take a cracked dash board, and faded paint over that any day.


why not catch a bus, train, plane, hitch hike, out to the sun belt and pick up a rust free truck. proably be money ahead in the long run.And the "new" truck may be worth alot more in your area.....

avg stock clean for its age g3 ranger go for around 3g's on avg here in cali.
 
Hi There:
If I were in your situation. I would go to a night school body shop class. You'll get hands on training that will last a life time & a decent looking truck at the end of the of the class.You will also have a lot of fun.
robs05xlt
 
I would buy something way nicer, and just use that one as a winter beater, or maybe a wheeler.
 
I would buy something way nicer, and just use that one as a winter beater, or maybe a wheeler.
Why haven't I thought of this? :thefinger:

If I had 15k to put towards a truck, this thread wouldn't exist ... hahahaha
 
Hi There:
If I were in your situation. I would go to a night school body shop class. You'll get hands on training that will last a life time & a decent looking truck at the end of the of the class.You will also have a lot of fun.
robs05xlt

That's pretty good advice. Or look at maybe letting a local high school or vo-tech school using it to learn on. You would get free bodywork and they get experience.
OR get yourself some POR-15, paint over the rust liberally, then apply primer and paint.
 
That's not bad. There are trucks with MUCH worse rust driving around here. Still not worth fixing, though. I'd drive it until it falls apart and then buy something new.
 
I'd fix it. But it depends on your resources i guess. I dont have a welder at my house anymore :(. It was my dad's ancient miller stick welder and he sold it. It was great. i learned to weld on it. he just didnt see need since he never uses it, and I lost the arguement on keeping it. It layed some beautiful beads in it's days. With E6013 rods you could lay build-up pads on rust and not have too much grinding afterwords. I miss it.
 
The rust around the windshield is bad in a bad way. You need to patch that up some way shape or form. Even tar based roof patch would be better than nothing. The rest is superficial, Doesn't really matter.
 

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