Rusted fasteners.

[Silverado]

It seems my new hobby is fixing the high mileage Ranger in my sig.

So far, every single fastener I've even looked at is in advanced states of rust or oxidation, ranging from stubborn to obstinate to seized to fossilized.

I've used penetrating oil, heat and vibration on the ones I've had to remove, with varied results.

Short of renting a swimming pool and dunking the whole truck in Kroil or something, do any of you mechanics have any good tips on dealing with majorly rusted fasteners and hardware?

I'm seriously contemplating just cutting/splitting every one and replacing it as a matter of course as I replace parts, but freeing cut/sheared/stripped bolts isn't my idea of a party.

 

[Nullifier]

Well old trucks are like that especially from the north. Other then lube, heat, cheater pipes, and impact wrenches, your next step is get out the saws all or torch to remove them.

If they are in the condition you describe it is better in the long run to replace them if you are restoring the truck. Once they are aged like that and then been severely stressed in order to be removed the matal can be weakened significantly. You should never reuse old rusty bolts related to the chassis or suspension anyway. Good luck

 

[Silverado]

If by 'restoring' you mean throwing parts at it to get it to a point where I don't think about it when I drive, then yes LOL

If I can readily get new ones for the parts I replace, I don't have a problem just putting new ones in, but I fear wrecking tapped holes and chases.

I broke one of the EGR valve mounting bolts taking that off; I removed the stub with lots of penetrating oil and a pipe wrench, and was able to chase the threads in the manifold with a tap to clean them up.

God forbid I have to make a helicoil part of my regular routine though...

 

[Nullifier]

Yes what you describe is an issue! I have had all kinds of issues myself over the years with bolts striping out taps in engine blocks, heads, intakes and all kins of bad places. There is no magic answer though you just have to be patient and attentive to precarious bolts and not be afradi to give hell tot he once that are not a high risk removal. Then I would run a tap into any stuck threads and when replacing bolts consider a small amount of teflonat the Top to seal the threads from contamination.

 

[Black'03LevelII]

when you put the new bolts in use some anti seize on them. we use it all the time on our semis and it works good. we use a product called Zep Groovy paste.

 

[brendank]

Meh.... Fort McMurray can't be as bad for salt as anywhere in Saskatchewan.

I personally like to use heat. It's the single, most effective way of taking off rusted shit, period. Cutting it out and finding another solution is second best.


BTW, 285k isn't high mileage

 

[Silverado]

LOL Brendan... Fort Mac isn't bad for salt, but this was at one time a Nova Scotia truck LOL

I don't know how long she was a Bluenoser before coming to Alberta; I bought it in Medicine Hat...

I suspect the original owners were downright religious about having the truck rustproofed, as the body shows VERY little rust for a 10 year old maritime truck. The frame and subframes are about what you'd expect; they're solid but somewhat rusty.

I have a 14V impact driver I'm going to try the next time out, and one of those tiny butane torches as well.

 

[almostclueless]

Why not hit every external fastener with PB blaster or kroil now and every once in a while?

 

[freebird]

Ive found this stuff called "Rescue" Works the best on loosening rusted bolts and nuts. Its also 23$ a can at our local hardware store. BEWARE it WILL strip the paint off of body panels!!! cover up when using it. They dont warn you of that on the can itslef. Its in a white aresol can. Spray it, let it sit overnight and then work the bolt a little bit before completely removing. And remember a good set of craftsman E-Z outs is always a handy tool to have in the shop.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Rust is part of life....

I have a pro-grade stanley air impact (550 ft/lb), 3' cheater pipe, and a set of regular cutting torches... plus a selection of new fasteners and never-seize.

It sucks, but it's part of life around here. I'll usually hit stuff with PB a couple days in advance if I can, then start with the impact or breaker bar and cheater pipe. If that doesn't work, then I break out the torch. If heating it doesn't work, then I just hit the magic lever and off it comes....

 

[Original_Ranger84]

I have heard that wintergreen oil makes an extreamly good penetrating oil. Haven't tried it cause i can't find any.

 

[Silverado]

Here's a question: when using heat to loosen a rusted fastener, is it better to heat the fastener itself, or whatever it's bolted into?

 

[brendank]

What it's bolted onto. Heat expands, and so it's more effective to have what's surrounding the bolt expand rather than the bolt itself.

In most cases though, heating either will work effectively.

 

[Black'03LevelII]

If that doesn't work, then I break out the torch. If heating it doesn't work, then I just hit the magic lever and off it comes....

aaahhhh yes good ol' "sparky the blue tipped wrench"

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

aaahhhh yes good ol' "sparky the blue tipped wrench"

Yup, he's become a favored friend when it comes to working on my stuff. I'm just a lil irritated that Acetalyne is so expensive, it's forcing me to convert to propane for the majority of my work.