Running rich both bank 1 & 2

[PlumCrazy]

As many of you know I recently completed my auto to manual swap in my 1999 3.0.

Now 1 out of every 5 times or so I start the truck it throws a CEL for banks 1 &2 rich. If I delete the code it wont come back for a few more drive cycles.

I never had a CEL before the swap. I used a 2000 3.0 non flex 2wd MT ECU, my truck was a 1999 3.0 non flex 2wd AT.

Anybody experience this after swapping ECUs? The new ECU took 5 min or so to "Learn" the new engine and start idling correctly.

I am beginning to wonder if the 2000 calls for different O2 sensors or injectors?

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

Is there any way to figure out if I ended up with a flex fuel ECU by looking at the 4 digit code on it? (EFA1)

-PlumCrazy

 

[locovaca]

If you had a Flex Fuel ECU you would know it, you would have constant codes for the Flex Fuel sensor.

Instead of assuming the ECU is wrong, let's assume it's right. What condition are your O2 sensors in? Have you checked for any exhaust leaks? MAF sensor is all clean? Any chance you swapped the O2 connectors at the wire harness?

The 2000 uses the same O2 sensors as a 1999. However, RockAuto has some of the cheaper vendors selling a separate downstream sensor for AT vs MT. Bosch, however, sells the same sensor for both, so it's probably a difference of cable length and not the actual sensor.

 

[PlumCrazy]

All connections are correct and tight. Never threw a CEL before the swap. The difference in rear O2s is 22" vs 30" harness. I also checked and confirmed the 2000 MT calls for the same injectors, MAF, and fuel reg.

I bought the truck with the current O2s in it last year, so I have no idea on their age. I just cant see both upstreams gong out at the same time. If the downstream was the culprit I imagine it would not throw two codes specifying bank 1 and bank 2.

I did find a vacuum leak last night (figured that would cause a lean condition anyway) where apparently I knocked the valve cover to intake breather line off during the swap. Popped it back on to find no change.

I never threw the CEL or had a surging idle after cold startup before the ECU change.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

Double checked connections. They are correct. I went ahead and ordered new upstreams. Truck has over 230k, so there is no telling how old they are.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

Well. I finally got a round to putting in the O2s. I had to pull the Y pipe and cut out a bung and weld in a new one. They were original at 230K.

I picked up my OBD2 scanner while I was home for Christmas. And threw it on since it will allow me to view streaming data. It shows 0.00V on all three O2s. I am begining to think the Manual ECU is pinned differently?

It throws the CEL as soon as the truck warms up after every start up now. Does anyone know where I can get the ECU pinouts?

 

[Earl43P]

PM me your e-mail address.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Found more issues. Turns out my truck was FFV..... I swapped in a non flex long block, but kept all the stock FFV accessories and injectors, etc. I never ran E85 and my FFV AT PCM seemed to be fine with the non flex engine i swapped in.No CEL and got 20-25 mpg with that combo.

So....should I be fine to run a FFV MT PCM now? I currently have a non flex MT PCM and it refuses to read the O2s.

When i put my stock FFV AT PCM in, it idles correctly and shows O2 activity on my scanner, but throws the CEL for no trans solenoids, torque con, etc. Not to mention it cuts out under heavy load like its trying to downshift.

I assumed my truck wasnt flex since it didn't have the little leaf badge on the tailgate. I guess I should have checked the Vin.

Any one else running a non flex engine with a MT and FFV PCM?
-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

There are more layers as well.....

The EFA1 PCM I have currently is for 3.0 non flex, MT, 1998.

This explains
A: why it still starts without the PATS programmed

B: Maybe why it refuses to communicate with the O2s

Every PCM cross reference says 99-00 are compatible, but 98 in its own column.

I found a MXA6 on EBay which is a 99 FFV 3.0 MT, so Im going to give it a shot and hope for the best.

-PlumCrazy

 

[stmitch]

The differences between FFV and non FFV 3.0's are primarily in electronics, and sensors. The long blocks are essentially the same, so as long as you kept the stock FFV injectors, wiring harness, ffv PCM, and emissions stuff like EGR/DPFE/Flex Fuel sensor, etc it should work just fine.
If you're using a non FFV PCM, with all of the other FFV components, it will give you problems.

On a side note, do you have thread here on your trans swap? I'm in the middle of the same conversion, and have come across some problems. I'd like to see what you did.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I know the flex heads are higher compression.

I used all the original flex stuff, just a non flex long block. I figure if my flex AT PCM was fine with the non flex long block, then a flex MT PCM should be fine.

Ill let everyone know what happens when I get the flex MT PCM in there.


What are your trans questions?

-PlumCrazy

 

[stmitch]

The difference in compression is minor. By 02 or 03 all 3.0's had the same heads anyway, FFV or not. Mechanically, there's not enough of a difference to matter. Your setup should work better with an FFV manual trans PCM.

My question is about the wiring. Everyone I've talked to who has done the swap says that Ford only made one harness, and it had the clutch position sensor with a jumper pinned under their dash. My truck didn't have this for some reason. Ford only shows one part number for the dash harness, but I pulled a dash harness from a 2000 4 cyl auto trans, with all power everything and it's much different from the stock harness in my base model, crank window truck.
After pulling both dash harnesses out, and setting them side by side, I've noticed several differences between them. They may be minor, or they may not. I was just wondering if you had to do any wiring, or if you were one of the lucky ones that had the clutch sensor as part of your wiring harness already.

 

[PlumCrazy]

After 97 Ford did away with the jumper on autos. I just have no clutch safety.

I looped the neutral wires and starter interupt at the transmission plug.

If you want a clutch safety you can run the two wires up from the starter interupt to the clutch switch instead of looping them.

The neutral wires that need looped are the Black wire and.the red/ white wire.

The starter interupt wires (ones you could extend for clutch safety)
are tan/red wire and the pink wire

The reverse switch wires are the same colors as the pigtail you need for the switch. Black/pink wire and purple/?white.

The manual trans harness is separate from the engine harness via a plug just above the bell housing, but the auto is all one piece, so the only way to make look factory is to get an entire manual engine harness.

I just looped my wires from the auto that needed looped, soldered on the reverse pigtail, and ziptied the other unused auto plugs up on top of the trans.
-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

I can get a few pics of you want.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

The issue with not having a clutch safety is that cruise control wont kick off on its own if you hit the clutch with it set. But if you have ever drove a factory manual RBV with cruise, then you would know it doesn't kick off fast enough on its own anyway. It still revs up before kicking off in my other factory (5 speed truck if you push the clutch.

Not to mention I never set my cruise in any gear but 5th anyway.

-PlumCrazy