running like crap...

[scotts90ranger]

I'm getting codes 51 and 67, looking it up 51 was coolant temp open or high and 67 was neutral switch open or something (I don't have a neutral switch)

'86 2.3T out of a T bird, PC1 computer running DIS with just passenger side plugs

what it's doing is spitting, sputtering, surging, backfiring and not running to it's normal self. I had a crank sensor issue (well mostly a crank pulley issue) which was fixed, but it was missfiring a lot right before I fixed it. I know missfiring can cause catalyst failures, which has been on my mind since this has been having issues after I fixed the crank pulley. I have a boost gage and it does get to 10psi like it used to, but it seems like I have about half the power it used to have.

I found my compression tester today, so in the near future I will be doing a compression test, I know the valves leak since it took a lot of air when I changed the valve seals...

I went to the junk yard today and grabbed another ignition module, changed it and it ran the same so either the new module has the same issue or it wasn't the problem. I also swapped the coil pack and it ran the same, so I pretty much eliminated the ignition system, although I havent checked the spark plugs but they only have about 6K on them.

when I relocated the O2 sensor I didn't look where I put it close enough and the wires could have contacted the frame and shorted, and it just adjusted the fueling too far out I'll reset the computer and see how that goes.

I'm leaning twards the cat myself, I've been needing to redo the exhaust so I guess it's just time, I believe I can get the components (muffler and cat) for around $50 through work, do the Thrush welded mufflers work good on the 2.3T?

Thanks for any assistance.

 

[Frank The Tank]

I ran a Vortex/vortec maybe, it is a single in dual out, and sounds very nice on my 2.3.

Frank

 

[Jay FX4]

NOS for teh horse powaz!!!

 

[Frank The Tank]

NOS for teh horse powaz!!!

But you say that in all your threads........ what are you talking about?

Frank

 

[fastpakr]

Scott,
If you can get access to an '86 Mitchell manual (or whichever year is appropriate for the computer and components you're running), you can get the pinpoint tests for those codes. Should be able to search it online - can't remember the names of those systems, maybe Alldata is one of them. The tests will help you narrow this down without having to guess at it.
Caleb

 

[Jay FX4]

But you say that in all your threads........ what are you talking about?

Frank

No, I've only said it twice! There was a thread about fuel additives or something recently, and Toms994x4 said it. I don't know if he was quoting somebody else or what. I would guess he was since i don't think he'd type "teh". For whatever reason, seeing that phrase makes me LMAO so hard....

 

[scotts90ranger]

the reason for the coolant temp sensor code was caused by me, I was frustrated one day when I was wheeling and killed it on an incline and it wouldn't restart for like 45 minutes so I unplugged it to try to trick it... didn't work. hadn't checked or cleared since then. I forgot about that incident earlier.

since I didn't change anything to cause this and it happened after a 45 minute drive with it misfiring about every second I am thinking melted cat, which wouldn't throw a code. the original cause of the misfiring was the keyway in the crank pulley being about 1/16" wider than it is supposed to be... the timing was off a little. (if you're curious, the crank bolt between an '86 and a '89 are different lengths... if using the serpentine pulley from an '89 you need to use the '89 bolt)

I'm thinking the neutral code is just that the older trannies have a neutral sensor/switch in them, my '89 had the wires, '90 didn't so it's not in the harness that I'm running right now, wonder if that has anything do do with my starting issue, that's worth a shot...

I'm thinking of temporarily eliminating the cat tomorrow and see where that gets me, order new exhaust parts on monday...

 

[scotts90ranger]

ok, changed the injectors a couple weeks ago, runs better (no hard misfires anymore) but now it's actually getting all the fuel it can get, sounds like it's flooding out, and it's gas mileage reflects that... this weekend I'll try pulling the codes, both KOER and KOEO since I havent done it running yet... yes I did reset the puter after I changed the injectors

the idle is better except when it's cold out first thing in the morning where it'll either idle high or low and the IAC is pulling it open to the point where I only have 10" of vacuum with a 500rpm idle, warm it sounds like it idles at about 800 and gets 20" vacuum, I'm thinking it's flooding out when cold so it needs the extra air, but if I add throttle it runs ok

what I've thought is that when my alternator failed and went full field (maxxed out the volt gage) that something fried, it ran fine for a little while after it happened but it's the only thing I can think of, it started getting bad after I went wheeling a couple months ago, didn't do anything too extreme.

also wanted to add this to the mix, it runs worse under boost, it sounds blubbery under boost, drop it under atmospheric and it'll clear up some, could this be a fuel pressure regulator? I didn't see any fuel in the manifold pressure reference line to the regulator

Thanks

 

[Frank The Tank]

Bump for a good guy.

Frank

 

[Bill G]

Scott, any results from another code pull or have you not had any time to work on it? And also what exactly do you mean by it runs blubbery under boost?

 

[scotts90ranger]

haven't had time yet, will do thisevening when I get back from relaxing a bit...

blubbery as in it sounds like it's flooding out, I'm used to weedeater engines and stuff, it's like when you run one with the choke on or too rich of a mixture, too much fuel and it kind of blubbers when you stab it. the turbo seems to be working fine, it gains pressure like it should (albeit a bit slow because it needs heat to build pressure, and with a rich mixture it isn't going to get as hot).

there was some oil in the intake when I took the upper intake off to change the injectors, but I attribute that to the stock breather going into the intake of the turbo, and you know the PCV issues these things have...

I'll dig into it more later and let you guys know, maybe get ambitious and do a compression check too

 

[scotts90ranger]

got as far as a compression check before I ran out of daylight.

all cylinders had between 150 and 160psi, which with 8:1 I figure that is decent especially with them all being very close (7% spread is pretty good from what I can remember)

when I was removing the plugs I did find a broken plug, which would explain a lot...

I do still have the extreme amount of fuel at startup, makes a HUGE fuel smoke cloud, we'll see how it goes after running with 4 good plugs for a while

I'll pull the codes tomorrow after work

 

[Bill G]

I have been doing some reading on turboford and came across some pretty good info for you. I got a PDF file from caroth on testing the vam and all of the other sensors and attached it here. You might want to test your vam to make sure it is working correctly.

 

[scotts90ranger]

thanks Bill, I've been wanting to do that, the thing is kinda old, and the over voltage thing started to worry me... I know the VAM is important... we'll see how it does with a decent spark plug tomorrow

you know, if the air temperature sensor was shot, that would explain everything... I'll look into that tomorrow, that's the kind of document I needed

 

[Bill G]

Glad I could help. You also need to get rid of that line that runs from the valvecover to the turbo inlet. Unless you like oil in your intake. I kept getting alot of pinging on anything over 4500 at 8psi. Removed the line and cleaned the oil out of the intake and I was back in business. I just have mine vented open.